200 Tdi alternator - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 1st, 2013, 02:43 PM
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Robert Courtney
1973 Series III 200TDI
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200 Tdi alternator

Burned out a new alternator in about 16 months so back to one on the bench that is still good. Need input on hooking up. 200 Tdi in a Series 3.

Have there wires two brown coming from starter solenoid and one white coming from dash harness.

I had Advance test it on their computer tester and they hooked up one input to B+ lug for power and return to W lug and indicator to smallest blade connector. The test went well and alternator passed all voltage requirements.

According to series wire diagram one brown from stater to B+ another from same lug on starter back to W and small white to small blade with arrow.

Does this all look good?

On the other alternator that died I had both browns to B+ and small white to W spade. It worked for 16 months with no damage to anything but I am not sure now how.
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  #2  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 05:13 AM
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You had it right enough. Cant speak for why the alternator failed....they wear out.....back in the day when I spent a lot of time winching (others) I used to wear them out fairly consistently. I've been uprating the 200tdi alts with a 100amp unit from RR I think. Give me a shout at the shop if you need to know more about that.
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Old January 2nd, 2013, 07:48 AM
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Recent Discussion on the same subject...

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=29388
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  #4  
Old January 8th, 2013, 09:53 PM
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Robert Courtney
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OK this is driving me nuts. I just got another new alternator, same as pictured before.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1753.cfm

I put the first one on as I said right after Romp 2011. Being a Series wiring harness I have two brown wires coming off the main lug of starter solenoid and one whiteish yellow coming from dash. I hooked both browns to the B+ lug on alternator and whiteish wire to tab marked W. It seemed to work although I never tested actual output voltage. I ran it this way for almost two years and never had an issue. Until recently and had alternator tested and was told it was no good.

I just put the new same style on hooked it up the same way and still only getting 12.2V which tells me that it is not sensing current therefore not exciting the field. Common sense would tell me 3 wires and three terminals hook it up that way, but want to be sure before I kill another $300.

Any thoughts?
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Old January 8th, 2013, 10:13 PM
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The W terminal is for a tachometer. There shouldbbe another terminal that connects to an idiot light. The other side of the light is wired to switched power. That wire let the alternator know to turn on.
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Old January 9th, 2013, 06:31 AM
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Robert Courtney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The W terminal is for a tachometer. There shouldbbe another terminal that connects to an idiot light. The other side of the light is wired to switched power. That wire let the alternator know to turn on.
Great that makes sense
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Old January 10th, 2013, 07:57 PM
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Robert Courtney
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Yeo a burned out idiot light will prevent the alternator from charging. 69 cents vs. $300
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Old January 10th, 2013, 11:57 PM
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You're onto something, but read this, please.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=42232
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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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