2.5 td Oil Leak/Trouble shooting - Please help - Defender Source
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Old December 15th, 2012, 10:17 PM
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2.5 td Oil Leak/Trouble shooting - Please help

Ok, I have a 1987 2.5td defender that leaks about an ounce of oil after a decent drive. After tracing the leak it appears to be coming from the back of the engine block. I believe the leak is coming from a hose that attaches at the back of the block and connects to the filler/breather cap on the valve cover. Does this sound plausible or would it stand to reason the leak is coming from a different source?

If it happens to be that the hose needs replacing, where can I find such a hose? I did not see it on rovahfarm or roversnorth and it has some pretty angular bends, so I doubt a generic length of hose would suffice.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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  #2  
Old December 15th, 2012, 10:45 PM
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Yes. Sounds like someone routed the breather line back into the block. Td's are known to have some blow by and oil must often gets sprayed from the breather line. I would have a catch can (oil/air) seperator installed inline and then have that line routed back into the intake (or just out into the air).
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Old December 16th, 2012, 01:34 AM
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I think we are talking about two separate lines. On the 2.5td the filler/breather cap has two outlets to run hoses. One hose is as you described. It connects to the air box. The other line connects at the bottom of the engine block. This is the line I think I am having issues with

Anyone?
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  #4  
Old December 16th, 2012, 01:41 AM
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Adrians advice is sage. The td is known for "running away" on its oil fumes and grenading. If yours is an 87 it shouldn't have the block problems earlier ones did but still has the oil fume problem that wasn't corrected until the 200tdi introduction. One of the biggest improvements you can make on the engine is a better oil/air seperator and thats what he's suggesting.

I'd look @ aftermarket stuff. I know Racor and Walker both make devices. The walker airsep is very popular on larger engines
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Old December 16th, 2012, 09:17 AM
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Mmm I don't remember mine having two lines. But it very well could . I'd check to make sure all connections are tight. Sounds like there is a clamp or something loose. Or even a crack in the line. If you have 2 lines I wouldn't be so worried about an oil air separator in the one that goes to the block. As its fine for oil to go back into the block. The one routing to the intake is the one to be concerned with. I actually used a moroso unit. It's a very nice piece and works/worked great. It's not something you have to buy that's engine specific or anything. In fact. Mine was for supercharged race cars, which is going to be much more than I would ever need lol
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Old December 16th, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Yeah, I think the second hose that goes to the block is just old and worn out. Any recommendations on where I can locate that particular hose?

As far as the oil separator, can you send me a link to the particular one you purchased? I think i know what you are referring to, but I wanted to make certain.
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Old December 16th, 2012, 02:33 PM
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Boss,
I used one of your pictures for your reference

You will see towards the backside of the filler/breather cap there is a port and hose connected that travels to the rear of the block.
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Old December 16th, 2012, 03:08 PM
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I think that's the heater hose just running behind it.

------ Follow up post added December 16th, 2012 03:12 PM ------

You can see my seperator in that pic. It's the shiney thing on the right lol

I bought it from jegs or summit I think. Just search for moroso oil air seperator. I bought one that had the mounting for where I planned on putting it, which ended up being a mustang one, which I cut the bracket I. Half and sort of used. Ill see f I can get some more info when I get home.
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Old December 16th, 2012, 10:42 PM
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Ok, here is a picture. You can see there are two hoses running from the filler/breather cap. You can also see how it runs to the rear of the block. Any ideas?



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Old December 17th, 2012, 12:29 AM
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That is whacky..... My guess is they did that to releave any pressure in the bottom end, but that makes no sense b/c in theory the head and the bottom end should be pressurized the same, since there are multiple oil and other passageways connecting the two, so you only need to provide a relief for any crankcase pressure from the valve cover.

I dont know exactly why its set up like that, but again my first bet would be to climb under, see if its leaking from where that hose connects to the block, and if so inspect/clean/replace or at least re-tighten that whole thing.
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Old December 17th, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Mate if you have pressure built up because of blow by, you should advice the problem itself instead of fiddling around with oil separator or any other "band-aid" solution. I had a td before and it had the same problem. After taking the engine apart and replacing worn out pistons and other parts, the problem was solved.

It sound to me like installing an oil drum on top of your roof to gravity feed your worn out engine and thinking you solved the problem. They are good little engine but they need to have a tip top cooling system and regular oil change. If you can pipe in an intercooler you might (if not tweak) lower the internal temperature. They were a bit stretched out 2.5 n/a diesel.

Take the oil cap out while the engine is running at idle and feel the pressure with your hand. It should have pressure or smoke. Don't forget that after 25-30 years of hard work, an engine might need attention.
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Old December 17th, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDNRover View Post
Mate if you have pressure built up because of blow by, you should advice the problem itself instead of fiddling around with oil separator or any other "band-aid" solution. I had a td before and it had the same problem. After taking the engine apart and replacing worn out pistons and other parts, the problem was solved.

It sound to me like installing an oil drum on top of your roof to gravity feed your worn out engine and thinking you solved the problem. They are good little engine but they need to have a tip top cooling system and regular oil change. If you can pipe in an intercooler you might (if not tweak) lower the internal temperature. They were a bit stretched out 2.5 n/a diesel.

Take the oil cap out while the engine is running at idle and feel the pressure with your hand. It should have pressure or smoke. Don't forget that after 25-30 years of hard work, an engine might need attention.
I appreciate the input, but I think you are confusing two separate issues. The first, and main, is to figure out where a leak is coming from in the back of the block. I believe I have located the leak to the aforementioned hose and am working to determine if it is in fact the hose failing or a separate issue at the rear of the block where the hose connects.

The second peripheral issue is that of the oil can separator. It was suggested to use one of these to avoid oil in the filter, which I happen to think is a good idea. I am not getting excessive amounts of oil in my air filter, so I do not think that to be a problem. I do not believe this to be a bandaid, but more preventative maintenance.

I think to to talk about replacing pistons is a little premature. Conventional wisdom would lead me to believe finding the source of the problem is the proper first step prior to simply throwing money at replacing pistons and other worn out parts in hopes at solving the issue.
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Old December 17th, 2012, 10:41 AM
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My oil seperator ose on the 200tdi was leaking as well. Turned out that the hose end where it connected to the oil pan was just shot.

I replaced the hose and rerouted to the oil seperator that comes out of the valve cover. No more leaks
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Old December 17th, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Jeff you bring up a good point, i totally forgot about that.

If we are honest, the 2.5TD is not the best motor in the world. However although mine had some blow by, it still ran fine, and was probably good for quite a while before it would need to be rebuilt. Infact I sold it and I'm sure its running good in the vehicle it was dropped in (i think hes a board member).

For the time and cost of ripping the bottom end apart, you could do what i did, and find a good deal on a 200tdi and swap it right in. I did my 200tdi swap for less than $2600 and that includes the engine which is a supposed re-build. Eveyone is worried about the 2.5TD "running away", but by putting in a catch can it totally eliminates that possibility, since the oil will never make it back into the intake.

I'm not saying you need to rip your engine apart. I think you can 1. find that leak and fix it 2. put in a catch can as preventative step and then enjoy your engine for good while, and if you stumble across a good deal on a 200tdi, and your engine is showing powerloss and more issues, jump on it!
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Old December 17th, 2012, 02:07 PM
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My TD has the hose you are talking about. It does indeed conect at the rear of the block and it goes to the breather on top of the valve cover. If the hose is bad it can be replaced and I would think RN should be able to get it for you. My parts catalog is not real clear which hose that is but I believe the number is ETC 7187. At some point the later engines switched to a hose from the block to the valve cover.
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Old December 23rd, 2012, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LRover View Post
My TD has the hose you are talking about. It does indeed conect at the rear of the block and it goes to the breather on top of the valve cover. If the hose is bad it can be replaced and I would think RN should be able to get it for you. My parts catalog is not real clear which hose that is but I believe the number is ETC 7187. At some point the later engines switched to a hose from the block to the valve cover.
That is exactly the part I was looking for! Thank you. As it turned out, it is not that hose that was leaking. It was the bolt in the middle of the picture that is leaking and dripping oil down the hose, which is why I thought it was the hose. When I have time I'll have to attack that bolt and leak.



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Old December 23rd, 2012, 02:00 PM
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Boss,

Thanks for the info on the oil/air separator. I order Ed the same one you have and just installed it last night. Hopefully, this will keep the oil out of the filter and subsequently, the turbo.
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Old December 29th, 2012, 05:54 PM
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Okay,
The banjo bolts for the pipe oil lead to the rocker is the culprit. I ordered new banjo bolts (ETC4498) and washers (ETC6510) but there is still a leak. It seems that the PO has stripped the hole.

Can anyone tell me what is the purpose of this oil lead to the rockers? (Part #
275679). This is very frustrating as I cannot get it to stop leaking oil. I am strongly considering just plugging the hole, but I would like to know what the purpose is of having this tube from the bottom of the block to the rockers?


Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old December 29th, 2012, 06:06 PM
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Prob oil return from the rocker shaft.
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Old December 29th, 2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Prob oil return from the rocker shaft.
Any idea if it would be detrimental to block this connection? There doesnt seem to be much oil flow, so I can imagine this being the vital connection to get oil to or from the rockers, but I don't want to do anything that will hasten wear of this motor
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