2.5 NA Fuel Filter replacement question - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 15th, 2013, 04:40 PM
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2.5 NA Fuel Filter replacement question

My Haynes manual doesn't advise me to fill it with fuel before I replace it.... But have read other places this may help prevent loosing prime.

Testing the waters here for experience and/or best practice.

Cheers,

Josh
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  #2  
Old May 15th, 2013, 04:52 PM
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I don't think you can fill it being a two piece design. You will need to prime very well though. Those engines will not ever self prime.
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Old May 15th, 2013, 05:01 PM
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I have had luck using a Mityvac and sucking fresh fuel through the filter once changing it out on VW's. Use the brake bleeding container that the pump comes with so you don't suck diesel through the mityvac.

You can also take the suction off the injection pump (return to tank). As long as the stop solenoid is energized it will get all of the air out of the filter and pump.
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Old May 15th, 2013, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I don't think you can fill it being a two piece design. You will need to prime very well though. Those engines will not ever self prime.
Red, can you give me some more insight into priming very well? How do I do this?
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Old May 15th, 2013, 05:28 PM
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It is explained in the workshop manual. If you do not have one, Google for it and you can download.

Basically, open the bleed at the filter and pump with the handle on the lift pump. Then do the same with the bleed at the injection pump.
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Old May 16th, 2013, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh-man View Post
Red, can you give me some more insight into priming very well? How do I do this?
If you have the housing/filterhead type that I'm selling (pic below) there is a circle pump "button" on top of it. You can push that repeatedly to get fuel into the filter element before it reaches the lift pump too. Here's how I learned that -> http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ht=fuel+filter
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Old May 16th, 2013, 12:07 PM
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My filter doesnt look like that on top... though that thing is probably quite handy.

Red, I found the lift pump but couldn't seem to find the bleed at the injection pump. Ill dig in to the shop manual now too.
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Old May 16th, 2013, 01:19 PM
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Picture attached.
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Old May 17th, 2013, 12:54 PM
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Thanks for that pic Red......needed that info.
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Old May 17th, 2013, 06:01 PM
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Reds basically THE MAN!!!
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Old May 31st, 2013, 07:58 PM
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Help! Manual lift pump ain't doing jack squat! Pumped the thing 200 times and just for shits opened the water draw off figuring if anything was happening it would come out there. But nada. Dry as a bone!

Any thoughts?
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Old May 31st, 2013, 08:29 PM
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Male sure it is not on the cam. The lift pump might be dead. They are not very reliable.
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Old May 31st, 2013, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
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Male sure it is not on the cam. The lift pump might be dead. They are not very reliable.
Seems like its not moving anything. When you say make sure it not on the cam, what do you mean? It's freely moving up and down about 3/4 of an inch with each pump.

Thanks gents.
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Old May 31st, 2013, 09:01 PM
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You could try turning over the starter for a sec to change where the pump is sitting in relation to the motor's rotation.
Is there a priming pump on top of the filter head?
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Old May 31st, 2013, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl View Post
You could try turning over the starter for a sec to change where the pump is sitting in relation to the motor's rotation.
Is there a priming pump on top of the filter head?
I just have that a try. Huge difference and I'm getting prime at both the filter bleeder screw and the bleed screw at the pump. Now to get her to start....

------ Follow up post added May 31st, 2013 09:05 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl View Post
You could try turning over the starter for a sec to change where the pump is sitting in relation to the motor's rotation.
Is there a priming pump on top of the filter head?
No pump like on some of the fuel filter housings. Those seems handy!!
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Old May 31st, 2013, 09:20 PM
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12V pump.

Go buy a low pressure 12V pump and put in after the sedimenter (if you have one) and before the filter. It will start and run and if you have a air leak on the suction side fuel will exit and if the lift pump is bad, the fuel will still go through to the IP... how's that for a run on sentence...

Hope this helps!
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Old May 31st, 2013, 09:23 PM
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Had to bleed all the way to the injector ports cracking all four head bleed screws. But she's up and running.

Thanks a ton. And thanks to Solarguy for the phone call too.
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Old May 31st, 2013, 09:31 PM
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Hand pumping is overrated!

Quote:
Originally Posted by josh-man View Post
Had to bleed all the way to the injector ports cracking all four head bleed screws. But she's up and running.

Thanks a ton. And thanks to Solarguy for the phone call too.
Hand pumping is close to hand pimping, get your self a 12V pump and skip the pushing air through the injectors... You have what is called a sandwich filter that is not easy to fill with fuel before you bleed... You could get a later spin-on filter. We have the filter head new for around $40 (my cost) if you need one.

Have a safe and happy weekend and don't drive too fast... I once pulled out on the interstate driving a 2.5 N/A and a car 5 miles back almost ran into me from behind!
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Old July 29th, 2016, 05:43 PM
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Old ass thread here but I'm getting ready to replace fuel filter on the Tithonus 2.5 and came upon this thread. Is there an updated fuel filter or I should say....is there a fuel filter that I don't have to order that I might be able to get from local advanced auto type shop that anyone is aware of?
I'm doing some small troubleshooting and going to start with fuel filter.
Truck runs awesome and starts right up every time but lately as I'm driving down the road and take my foot off the gas and begin to slow down, the engine shuts off. Crank it right back up and idles momentarily.....begin driving again, slow back down and shuts off. Figured starting with a fresh filter may be the culprit but I'm impatient and want to go pick one up in the morning ...lol.
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Old July 29th, 2016, 06:54 PM
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I had this happen and it was the wiring connector to the shutoff solenoid. Slowing down to a redlight it would wiggle enough to shut off the fuel, but the wire was still on the post. The copper wiring had flexed enough to eventually make intermittent contact. Just had to cut the old connector off and crimp a new one on, been perfect for months. Let the truck idle and wiggle the wiring harness around the shutoff and back up from that where that wire goes into the harness. Easy to find that way. It's probably either the wiring, the solenoid, or lastly the fuel pump. If the filter had issues it would most likely present at idle or full throttle. I carry spares of all under the seat at any given time.

If wiggling doesnt work, put a voltmeter on the solenoid and drive it. See if voltage cuts out when the truck shuts off.

I buy general service parts from Trevor at Rovahfarm RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories. For $4 a filter why not have a spare all the time?
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