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  #1  
Old December 26th, 2013, 10:30 PM
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2.5 n/a Running Hot

I was driving through some bitter cold weather and my water temp. gauge was reading hot (all the way high) when I was going around 65mph sustained over a few hours (hills/flats/descents). Sometimes it would dip back down seemingly randomly. I couldn't get the gauge down consistently even when parked facing the wind in high elevation in bitter cold. I noticed no problems on the very long drive other than the readings.

I didn't notice any leaks but I topped off the coolant once and at the end of the drive the expansion tank was only half full. Is it okay to drive with it in the red like that? I figured it was probably a bad reading in the gauge but my oil temp gauge was reading hot too. Is it normal for defenders to run hot like this? I know the gauges usually aren't accurate and are replaced etc. I also don't have a temp. gun to measure the radiator/engine. I took it out for short drives in warm weather recently it heats up and stays hot (in the red) very quickly.

Is there anything I should look for if a problem does start to arise while driving? Anything I should check before hitting the road again?

Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old December 26th, 2013, 10:44 PM
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Assuming you've got a 1.6:1 transfer case, 65mph is turning the engine pretty fast.

I usually stay around 55, but I've done 60 briefly on long trips, trying to make up for the 35 going up hills.

I never had any over heating. The oil temp gauge does run kind of hot after a while, but the coolant never did on mine. The way you talk about it fluctuating sounds like not enough coolant to get to the sender or maybe a bad sender or loose wiring going to it. You might want to invest in an amazon IR thermometer to see if you're really over heating.
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Old December 26th, 2013, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post

I didn't notice any leaks but I topped off the coolant once and at the end of the drive the expansion tank was only half full. Is it okay to drive with it in the red like that?
Lol
Not okay!
No leaks but losing coolant and running hot?
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  #4  
Old December 26th, 2013, 10:52 PM
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Yea I need to get a temp gun but wanted to know if it'd be okay to drive to NOVA tmrw from MD.


No I didn't notice any leak anywhere and its been sitting with no drips or anything on the driveway. I'm pretty new to all of this so if my logic seems way off like that please let me know haha. No leaks and running hot. The expansion tank didn't seem to be hot nor did the coolant in it. Is it possible the coolant is not circulating?
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Old December 26th, 2013, 10:53 PM
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I wouldn't drive it hot.
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Old December 26th, 2013, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jafir View Post
Assuming you've got a 1.6:1 transfer case, 65mph is turning the engine pretty fast.

I usually stay around 55, but I've done 60 briefly on long trips, trying to make up for the 35 going up hills.

I never had any over heating. The oil temp gauge does run kind of hot after a while, but the coolant never did on mine. The way you talk about it fluctuating sounds like not enough coolant to get to the sender or maybe a bad sender or loose wiring going to it. You might want to invest in an amazon IR thermometer to see if you're really over heating.

I figured it could be the sustained strain but I took it out the other day and it did the same thing. Heated up quickly and stayed hot. This was a casual Sunday drive not more than 10 miles with a top speed of maybe 40mph.
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Old December 26th, 2013, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
Yea I need to get a temp gun but wanted to know if it'd be okay to drive to NOVA tmrw from MD. No I didn't notice any leak anywhere and its been sitting with no drips or anything on the driveway. I'm pretty new to all of this so if my logic seems way off like that please let me know haha. No leaks and running hot. The expansion tank didn't seem to be hot nor did the coolant in it. Is it possible the coolant is not circulating?
Are the hoses pressurized? Should be firm ... If they aren't check the expansion bottle cap. RN sold a load of faulty ones that didn't fit properly and can lead to symptoms you describe.

If hoses are firm check lower portion of rad with your hand. It should be as hot as the top. If it's not suspect rad is silted up.

It's possible that thermostat has failed closed and keeping engine hot. Unlikely in reality but possible.

Otherwise could be head gasket ...
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Old December 26th, 2013, 11:07 PM
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I'd stop driving it till you figure out what is going on for sure, engine replacements are expensive and take a lot of time in the driveway.
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Old December 26th, 2013, 11:10 PM
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I'd stop driving it till you figure out what is going on for sure, engine replacements are expensive and take a lot of time in the driveway.
I can only imagine. It took me like 6 months to install power steering. An engine at my house might take the rest of my life. Fortunately I have easy access to a shop with a lift.
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Old December 26th, 2013, 11:13 PM
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Took me about two months to do the job, most of the time was waiting on parts I forgot to order ahead of time. Part of the time was figuring out the power steering hoses and some rewiring.
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  #11  
Old December 26th, 2013, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Are the hoses pressurized? Should be firm ... If they aren't check the expansion bottle cap. RN sold a load of faulty ones that didn't fit properly and can lead to symptoms you describe.

If hoses are firm check lower portion of rad with your hand. It should be as hot as the top. If it's not suspect rad is silted up.

It's possible that thermostat has failed closed and keeping engine hot. Unlikely in reality but possible.

Otherwise could be head gasket ...
The hoses seemed firm. I just went and checked again and noticed some drops of liquid on the oil intercooler? its a mini radiator mounted in front of my radiator. It was around the lines running through it.

Also some of the hose connections were damp so maybe its a slow leak from those? Didn't notice them before but I had a light with me now and saw them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
I'd stop driving it till you figure out what is going on for sure, engine replacements are expensive and take a lot of time in the driveway.
Haha yeah unfortunately that is probably the best advice. I guess I'll start by refitting the connections and flushing the radiator.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 02:50 AM
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If you're saying the oil temp also went high, do you mean that both needled pinged as far right as they could?

If so, check the earth on the back of the guage, usually the one that's held under the thumbscrew that holds the "U" shaped fixing clamp in place.
If this earth (which is normally a black cable, looped across the back of the guages then to a suitable earth point) comes adrift, then the guage just pings to the right.

If the guages are slowly moving to the right and not trying to bend themselves against the casing, then you must have engine issues. odd for the oil to get that hot though... I'd be looking at electrical issues.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 06:59 AM
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If the ground isn't good on the temp gauge sometimes tapping on it with your finger can bring the needle down.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 07:19 AM
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Get a pressure tester from autozone rentals and test it ... This will show any small leaks.

The system needs to be properly pressurized to work.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 07:43 AM
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Find the sensor. Remove the wire. Ground wire on block. Should max out the gauge and prove the gauge is good.
Then replace sensor
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Old December 27th, 2013, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
I was driving through some bitter cold weather and my water temp. gauge was reading hot (all the way high) when I was going around 65mph...
If the temp gauge is accurate, you should have blown coolant all over the place.
Since the overflow tank was only half full and you did not have any leaks, you might come out of this OK, but you should never drive with the gauge reading all the way hot especially for extended periods, but you either already knew that or know it now.

If you run the engine hot and it is as hot as the gauge indicates, you should be able to stop the engine and hear the coolant boiling in the radiator, but there is another more accurate indicator.

Go buy yourself a hand held infrared temp gun/gauge and you can drive until the dash temp gauge is reading in the red and jump out and start checking true temperatures with your new digital temp gun. Then you'll know the true score, so to speak.

The next step is to come up with a plan to fix this problem and it is a real problem, but lets hope it is a faulty reading problem instead of a problem with the engine.

Good luck!
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  #17  
Old December 27th, 2013, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Get a pressure tester from autozone rentals and test it ... This will show any small leaks.

The system needs to be properly pressurized to work.
Yea I've been reading up on this. There is a fitting towards the top of my expansion tank by the cap that has no hose on it. Seems like it'd be hard to keep pressure in the system with an open connection like that. Is this a bleed connection or similar or should there be a hose there?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
If the temp gauge is accurate, you should have blown coolant all over the place.
Since the overflow tank was only half full and you did not have any leaks, you might come out of this OK, but you should never drive with the gauge reading all the way hot especially for extended periods, but you either already knew that or know it now.

If you run the engine hot and it is as hot as the gauge indicates, you should be able to stop the engine and hear the coolant boiling in the radiator, but there is another more accurate indicator.

Go buy yourself a hand held infrared temp gun/gauge and you can drive until the dash temp gauge is reading in the red and jump out and start checking true temperatures with your new digital temp gun. Then you'll know the true score, so to speak.

The next step is to come up with a plan to fix this problem and it is a real problem, but lets hope it is a faulty reading problem instead of a problem with the engine.

Good luck!
Yea I ordered the gun and it should be here monday, then again its via UPS. I wouldn't have kept driving but I heard no noises, saw no coolant bubbling over or leaking, and I was in a position where I couldn't really stop driving.

Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_jim View Post
If you're saying the oil temp also went high, do you mean that both needled pinged as far right as they could?

If so, check the earth on the back of the guage, usually the one that's held under the thumbscrew that holds the "U" shaped fixing clamp in place.
If this earth (which is normally a black cable, looped across the back of the guages then to a suitable earth point) comes adrift, then the guage just pings to the right.

If the guages are slowly moving to the right and not trying to bend themselves against the casing, then you must have engine issues. odd for the oil to get that hot though... I'd be looking at electrical issues.
No the needles didn't ping immediately. Oil stays in the 3/4 area and water temp gradually works its way up over 15 minutes or so of driving. I was hoping it was a bad ground so I cleaned all the connections and grounds on the guages and it did the same.

Thanks all
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Old December 27th, 2013, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
Yea I've been reading up on this. There is a fitting towards the top of my expansion tank by the cap that has no hose on it. Seems like it'd be hard to keep pressure in the system with an open connection like that. Is this a bleed connection or similar or should there be a hose there?
If i understand correctly thats the pressure release ... when the cap springs it should squirt water out that tube ... if you can put a tube on it and blow into it with the cap fitted then it would likely indicate the cap isn't fitting properly.

If the hoses get firm ... with the engine up to temp then thats good news .... see how long the take to go soft ... should be more than 30 mins ... maybe longer ... if they soften quick then you have a leak.

Assuming the hoses are firm ... and driving increases temp ... then you are lacking cooling ... this could be a blocked radiator ... take the front grill off and put your hand near the bottom ... it should be as hot as the top in a non scientific ohh ouch kinda way. If it blocked it will be distinctly cooler.

does your fan work? With the temps you are talking about you should hear the fan cut in ... if its a viscous one test it with a rolled up news paper.

I'd also take a look at the thermostat ... you can take it out and test it in a pan of water on the cooker ...
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  #19  
Old December 27th, 2013, 01:24 PM
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I wish I could get 65 mph sustained
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Old December 27th, 2013, 01:46 PM
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Interested to see how this one pans out.
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