2.5 n/a diesel fuel line size - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old August 18th, 2014, 10:46 PM
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Just ordered some nylon tubing, gonna sit on whether or not to get a new housing and what to do about fittings, thanks all
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  #22  
Old August 19th, 2014, 07:15 AM
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Robert Davis
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Fuel Filter

I have the Bosch OEM as seen in the pictures below if anyone needs one, I offer these to members for about $75 with all the plugs and fittings.

You can also use the Standadyne FM-100 as John suggests.

About a year ago, I replaced a plastic filter housing that had cracked with age.
It was a rush job for someone from out-of-town.
Threw it away, so am not 100% sure if it was Standadyne or not, but would stay away from the plastic style just because the cast metal OEM is still available from Bosch.
The OEM has an air bleed port which comes in handy.
The plastic unit wasn't leaking, but the guy was driving to CO and was not comfortable with the cracked plastic.
He had a 2.5 N/A and I installed a 12V pump, sedimenter, and OEM Bosch filter.

These pictures are not very good, but they show the OEM filter assembly and an earlier all metal sedimenter we use to offer with 12V fuel pump.
These earlier sedimenters worked fine, but they were hard to reassemble and get all the seals in place and leak if they are not assembled just right.
The ones we offer now are much easier to assemble and disassemble and have a see through glass section that lets you see the trapped water and sediment that you can drain out.

Hope this helps.
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  #23  
Old August 19th, 2014, 07:34 AM
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The stanadyne housings are metal (aluminum). They have bleed ports. They have facilities for heaters and pumps. You can fit glass bowls, water sensors.... Lots of options. They are OE for a lot of engines.
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  #24  
Old August 19th, 2014, 08:12 AM
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Robert Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The stanadyne housings are metal (aluminum). They have bleed ports. They have facilities for heaters and pumps. You can fit glass bowls, water sensors.... Lots of options. They are OE for a lot of engines.
John:
Sounds like stanadyne is also a very good choice and versatile as well.

Almost anything is an improvement over the CAV sandwich filter.
Don't know about everyone else, but I take the CAV sandwich assembly off, disassemble it in a oil drain pan, reassemble, test for leaks, and re-install. What a chore it is!
The CAV sandwich filter elements are cheaper, but a spin-on is a hell of a lot easier to change out with a simple unscrewing of the element and spinning a new one in place.

Hope this helps.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #25  
Old August 19th, 2014, 08:29 AM
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When I replumbed mine, I used barbed fittings, but also used fuel injection type clamps to make sure there where no leaks. Also note that the stock supply line to the IP, and the return line from the injectors are different sizes.
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  #26  
Old August 19th, 2014, 08:32 AM
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Racor too. They make a filter that combines a sedimentor with the filter element. It has a built in 12v priming pump and a 15watt heating element. PN: P3202NH. It's on my shopping list. About $300!
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  #27  
Old August 19th, 2014, 09:08 AM
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You can see the FM-100 option list here: http://www.puric.hr/upload/zanimljiv...v_3_121258.pdf
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