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  #1  
Old June 19th, 2014, 08:59 AM
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19J pressure buildup

Just changed out the thermostat and put in a new radiator. It is the radiator for a 200tdi, as that is what was in my 1989 110 CSW before I had to change her back to 19J to ship her stateside. Now, having a LOT of pressure buildup in coolant system that will overheat and go into red. When I loosen the expansion cap, pressure goes down, temp goes down, and she drives great! I did notice that the expansion cap is not land rover, but Mercedes cap. I have ordered a genuine replacement. Do you think the expansion cap could be the source of the problem?

dan
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  #2  
Old June 19th, 2014, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grapplerdan View Post
Just changed out the thermostat and put in a new radiator. It is the radiator for a 200tdi, as that is what was in my 1989 110 CSW before I had to change her back to 19J to ship her stateside. Now, having a LOT of pressure buildup in coolant system that will overheat and go into red. When I loosen the expansion cap, pressure goes down, temp goes down, and she drives great! I did notice that the expansion cap is not land rover, but Mercedes cap. I have ordered a genuine replacement. Do you think the expansion cap could be the source of the problem?

dan
You posted this scenario before and the never posted any pictures or responded to any of the questions of the people trying to help you. No the cap isn't your problem. Is there a cooling fan ? Is there a fan shroud ?
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  #3  
Old June 19th, 2014, 10:13 AM
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There is a viscous cooling fan with the 200tdi fan shroud. I am unable to post pictures because we don't have internet at home as our DEROS has changed from 4April to 2May to 1June to 1July...and our internet has been off since May. I am unable to upload photos from govt computer, otherwise I would gladly post photos. I am just trying to gain as much help/advice as I can. The temperature sender was replaced and no change. The radiator was replaced with a new 200tdi radiator and it definitely helped.

dan
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Old June 19th, 2014, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grapplerdan View Post
There is a viscous cooling fan with the 200tdi fan shroud. I am unable to post pictures because we don't have internet at home as our DEROS has changed from 4April to 2May to 1June to 1July...and our internet has been off since May. I am unable to upload photos from govt computer, otherwise I would gladly post photos. I am just trying to gain as much help/advice as I can. The temperature sender was replaced and no change. The radiator was replaced with a new 200tdi radiator and it definitely helped.

dan
Dan,
To be clear you should have to change the sender and the gauge, these things work on resistance and different engines used different setups. It sounds like you are certain it is actually over heating as opposed to a gauge issue ? Also sounds like the fan should be pulling air through the shroud for you. Is this only happening @ highways speeds or does it happen sub 50mph around town ? Have you tried revving the engine with no cap on the res ? Do that and see if you get any bubbles coming up when you rev the engine. I suspect you have a bad head gasket leaking compression and pressurizing the cooling system. Hope I'm wrong.
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  #5  
Old June 19th, 2014, 02:41 PM
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It only overheats when it is going up a hill or over 55mph. Otherwise, she drives great. I will try the revving without the cap in and see what happens. I am fearful that it is the head gasket as well, as I really don't gave the time to fix it before we ship it during the PCS. The guys I bought it from (Landiman) in the UK had just replaced the head gasket before sending it. I live driving her, but wife is getting frustrated at my 'expensive' hobby.
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  #6  
Old June 19th, 2014, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by grapplerdan View Post
It only overheats when it is going up a hill or over 55mph. Otherwise, she drives great.
That sounds to me to be about normal for a 19J. It's not like you are driving a sleek, aerodynamic vehicle. You are pushing an aluminum, steel and glass wall down the highway.
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  #7  
Old June 20th, 2014, 06:31 AM
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Okay, so definitely bubbles with radiator cap off, white smoke on start-up and with all coolant caps on tight....looks like I need to replace my head gasket. I was hoping to wait until I got stateside to do it as part of the restoration and to have my dad, who was once upon a time a mechanic, help.

I have looked and can't find a tutorial. Anyone have a cheat sheet? I specialize in neck/back/knee/shoulder/hip pain and the repair of musculoskeletal problems. My mechanical experience is limited to only oil changes, now a radiaor swap, some brakes, and a few other minor things. I am great at using youtube or working from some cheat sheets. I have the haynes manual and plan on doing it next week. Is this something my two boys (16yrs and 15yrs) and I can do in two days? We have tools and will be grabbing the self-help auto repair guys on base, but our self-help is severely undermanaged right now and they don't have a lot of diesel experience.

Thanks for all the support and guidance.

dan
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  #8  
Old June 20th, 2014, 07:34 AM
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Tape a meat thermometer to your radiator top hose. When it overheats, pull over and get a real reading of the temp.

I always thought I had overheating issues. Turned out to be a gauge problem.
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  #9  
Old June 20th, 2014, 07:37 AM
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will do that tonight...

dan
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  #10  
Old June 20th, 2014, 10:53 AM
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Compression bubbles through the coolant is a far more serious issue on a diesel than with a gas engine. Especially if you are getting white smoke on startup (ie coolant has leaked into a cylinder). Diesels bend rods and break pistons when water/fluid gets into the cylinders. @ a min I would remove the cap from the res when you shut the truck down so the system isn't pressurized as it cools down to avoid pushing coolant into the cylinder. I think you can forgo the meat thermometer test since you have established that you have compression leaking into the cooling system.
Think about it, the cooling system operates @ 14 psi or so, your compression is 400psi +. If coolant is getting in when @ rest there is no doubt you are air locking the cooling system with leaked compression when its running.

Not trying to be doom and gloom but I wouldn't run it until the gasket has been replaced if it were mine.
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  #11  
Old June 20th, 2014, 03:36 PM
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Roger that. Gasket should come in by Monday or Tuesday at the latest. I'll be 'studying' the Haynes manual all weekend in preparation. It looks straight forward. I hope it is not a mess once I open her up. I'll keep you posted on how well it goes.

Dan
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Old June 20th, 2014, 03:40 PM
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Don't reuse the head bolts, buy new ones and get your hands on an accurate torque wrench.
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Old June 20th, 2014, 03:52 PM
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recommend also checking block flatness before changing the headgasket as a warped block will leak no matter what.

highly recommend removing the head before the headgasket arrives.
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  #14  
Old July 1st, 2014, 04:05 PM
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Okay, took the plunge and tore her apart. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. First off the bat, found the intake manifold was broken. Looks like it had been 'fixed' with some epoxy and it broke off. Also, I've been cleaning up the head...good news is it is not warped. Bad news is it looks like I do have cracks. Is this something I can get machined, or does it need to be replaced?
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  #15  
Old July 1st, 2014, 04:10 PM
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When you can see the cracks like that it's toast.
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  #16  
Old July 1st, 2014, 04:15 PM
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Alright, looks like Turner Engineering, here I come...

I was hoping to not have to do it until stateside, but I'll get the cylinder head and use it as is stateside until I can save up for a swap.
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  #17  
Old July 13th, 2014, 03:55 PM
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Okay, Turner didn't want to exchange heads, I was able to find a quality used head online and installed it. No problems with the reinstall, or so I thought, but on start up, there is a lot of smoke and it will die if I don't keep it rev'ed high. Also, turbo sounds funky, maybe a little smoke from it? Is it possible that the turbo just needs to be adjusted? Could it have died when I was overheating previously? No problem at all now with overheating, she just wants to run really rough and kick out smoke. I did change out to new injectors and new glow plugs. Any thoughts? I am about ready to just ship it stateside as is so I will have time and help when it get there (Fort Benning).
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  #18  
Old July 13th, 2014, 07:25 PM
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turbos aren't adjustable. When the waste gate opens is a little bit. Sounds like your injection pump timing is off.
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  #19  
Old July 13th, 2014, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grapplerdan View Post
The guys I bought it from (Landiman) in the UK had just replaced the head gasket before sending it.
Any chance you can get it back to these guys who put the band aid head gasket on? They should have seen the cracked head when they did the head gasket last time and known that they were selling a problematic engine.
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  #20  
Old July 13th, 2014, 09:04 PM
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My guess and it's just that is that the used head you installed has issues.
I know you are most likely trying to limp it home for a 200TDI install, but slapping a used head on is not much better than using the old one, especially if it is a N/A head and not a turbo one.
Sounds to me like you need to take the head off and take it to a machine shop unless there is some other factor we don't know anything about.
LIKE
Did the new head come with injectors and you used them instead of the ones from your old head.
An injector stuck open that continuously squirts fuel will give a smoke screen like Royal Navy destroyers at the battle of Jutland.
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