1995 NAS D-90 Starting Problems - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old December 25th, 2013, 12:30 PM
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Frank
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Thanks. The lug is clean and the nut tight. I am getting a "click" somewhere behind the clocK in the dash which I am not sure if it is related to the lack of starting problem.
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  #22  
Old December 25th, 2013, 03:07 PM
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ed angel
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As Ron stated in one of his post , check the ground wires . Run a ground jumper , your jumper cables from neg of battery to ground on motor and see if it starts . Use a test light and verify you are getting power to the starter while in crank position . I'm thinking it's a ground issue from sitting around with a dead battery in it .
Merry Christmas and good luck getting your NAS running.
Ed
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  #23  
Old January 11th, 2014, 06:40 PM
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Frank
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It was fairly warm in Ohio today, so I continued to try and solve the mystery of why my NAS 90 won't start. I checked to see if I was getting power to the starter in the crank position. I AM, so now what could be the issue??? Recap: Both the original and a new starter both bench test fine (left the new one installed), old battery had a bad cell, so I put an Optima in. All dash lights and chimes work as they should.
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  #24  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:10 PM
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Frank
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Any ideas about what to check next? If I am getting power to the starter in the crank position it should start right? Thanks
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  #25  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:43 PM
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Frank
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I haven't specifically checked brake lights, but the headlights, dash lights and door chime work fine. Is there something specific with the brake lights?
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  #26  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruggedalaskaman View Post
It was fairly warm in Ohio today, so I continued to try and solve the mystery of why my NAS 90 won't start. I checked to see if I was getting power to the starter in the crank position. I AM, so now what could be the issue??? Recap: Both the original and a new starter both bench test fine (left the new one installed), old battery had a bad cell, so I put an Optima in. All dash lights and chimes work as they should.
Did the ignition switch check out ok?
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  #27  
Old January 12th, 2014, 12:48 PM
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Frank
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I made a jumper wire to see if I was getting power to the starter in the crank position, which I am. With this finding I would think the switch is fine?
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  #28  
Old January 12th, 2014, 01:56 PM
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Wondering if under the hood fuse might be a problem?, not sure but looking at some threads one person had a problem with his maxi fuse marked lighting rather than ignition that caused a no start.
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  #29  
Old January 12th, 2014, 01:58 PM
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Frank
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Hmmm I will check it tomorrow, do you know where it is? Thanks
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  #30  
Old January 12th, 2014, 02:11 PM
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Marc
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Not sure but under the bonnet prob against the firewall, or on left side by the brake master?, reading off a 1997 manual (of course no '95 manual available)
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  #31  
Old January 17th, 2014, 09:41 AM
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Frank
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The next chapter in the mystery.... Last night I tested the voltage to the starter in the "crank" position and the meter showed 11.78. This same battery engaged the starter using jumper cables when the starter was out of the vehicle. Since the ignition switch and the starter relay are sending power to the starter in the "crank" position they must be good right? If so, why isn't the starter engaging???
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  #32  
Old January 17th, 2014, 12:11 PM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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for what it's worth

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruggedalaskaman View Post
The next chapter in the mystery.... Last night I tested the voltage to the starter in the "crank" position and the meter showed 11.78. This same battery engaged the starter using jumper cables when the starter was out of the vehicle. Since the ignition switch and the starter relay are sending power to the starter in the "crank" position they must be good right? If so, why isn't the starter engaging???
RAM-

For what it's worth I have an '89 Grand Wagoneer that was doing the same thing. I got underneath and took the wires off of the starter and using my handy cordless Dremel with the miniature wire brush cleaned both the end of the wires and the posts they attach to. Shazam! Works like a dream. I assume 18 years-give or take-can cause a "film" of some kind to develop on the works and reduce the flow of 'lectricity.

Very easy to get to and a very simple way to rule out bad contacts....
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  #33  
Old January 17th, 2014, 01:38 PM
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Frank
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Thanks. I am planning to go through and clean all the contacts, just to rule them out, but 11.78 volts should be enough to click the solenoid I would think. Do NAS Defenders have engine imobilizers? Could that be preventing the starter from engaging, or am I "reaching"?
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  #34  
Old January 17th, 2014, 04:36 PM
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Kevin C. Doyle
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can't hurt

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruggedalaskaman View Post
Thanks. I am planning to go through and clean all the contacts, just to rule them out, but 11.78 volts should be enough to click the solenoid I would think. Do NAS Defenders have engine imobilizers? Could that be preventing the starter from engaging, or am I "reaching"?

RAM_

I'm not sure about immobilizers....don't think so...I bet, however, that even though there may be enough "juice" to engage the solenoid, there may not be enough "juice" to turn that big old clunky Buick engine over. Give it a whirl and the worst that can happen is 10 minutes of cleaning and eliminating an obvious issue...

Remember though how much you paid for this advice....

KCD
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  #35  
Old January 17th, 2014, 05:27 PM
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Marc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruggedalaskaman View Post
Thanks. I am planning to go through and clean all the contacts, just to rule them out, but 11.78 volts should be enough to click the solenoid I would think. Do NAS Defenders have engine imobilizers? Could that be preventing the starter from engaging, or am I "reaching"?
I think the '97 D90's have an immobilizer.
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  #36  
Old February 1st, 2014, 06:08 PM
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Frank
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Update. It warmed up today, so I continued working on the mystery of why the NAS 90 won't start. As a recap in position 1 of the ignition all of my dash light and door chime come on as normal. In position 2 "crank" nothing happens. I originally thought the starter and replaced it only to find out the old one bench tested fine (along with the new one) several times. Next I tested the battery and it had a dead cell, so I went with an optima. Next I thought the ignition switch, so I made a jumper wire and am currently getting 12.6V in position 2 "crank" at the starter. Today I used a dremel an cleaned up my contacts and checked my ground. I also inspected the wires from the battery to the starter and all seem to be fine. I also checked the under hood fuse box and all the fuses are fine. I am running out of ideas.... This is a well cared for garage kept D-90! Thoughts???
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  #37  
Old February 8th, 2014, 10:08 AM
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The wires to/from the starter could have internal corrosion. This happend to me on another antique I own that had the same problem you're describing. I replaced both sides and never had a problem again.

Same car had a problem with disk brake calipers locking up. It was the rubber brake lines collapsing on the inside, they looked beautiful on the outside.
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  #38  
Old February 8th, 2014, 12:53 PM
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Sounds like bad ground.
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