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  #1  
Old July 25th, 2014, 07:25 PM
Kdawg97m3
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Kristian
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1994 defender 90 question

So I just bought my D90..while driving I be noticed the temp guage really isn't moving off cool...so thermostat? Gauge or temp sending unit

Also my hazards won't stay on, they only work when the button is held down.

Thanks for anyhelp
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  #2  
Old July 25th, 2014, 09:03 PM
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Mike Ferguson
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KDawg,

Welcome to the board. I am sure you will get a lot of other help on this, but here is how I would trouble shoot this. The temp would stay on the cold peg if the thermostat is stuck open/missing, so that will probably not be able to be trouble shot without removing the thermostat housing. For the gauge/sender, pull the wire off the sender and ground it. If the gauge swings, probably not the gauge. The senders run about $50, but are pretty easy to replace.

I have a 94 also, and I have had to replace many of the sensors just due to age, but since you just bought it, I would R&R the thermostat to start. Good luck.

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  #3  
Old July 26th, 2014, 07:12 AM
richord
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Richard Ordowich
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I had exactly the same problem when I picked mine up in March and it turned out to be the thermostat stuck open in my case. Easy fix on my 1987 2.5TD
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  #4  
Old July 26th, 2014, 05:23 PM
Kdawg97m3
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You guys are great. Thanks I will TS now report back
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  #5  
Old July 26th, 2014, 05:45 PM
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Is the gauge moving at all? You can unplug the temperature sending unit and touch the lead to the block which should cause the gauge to read fully hot. That way you can verify that the gauge is actually reading.
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  #6  
Old July 27th, 2014, 10:37 AM
Kdawg97m3
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Kristian
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Ok guys so here goes... Guage seems to work grounded it from behind the dash it pegged to hot. So I am going to buy a sending unit and check that first. If not. Thermostat. Thanks again.
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  #7  
Old July 27th, 2014, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kdawg97m3 View Post
Ok guys so here goes... Guage seems to work grounded it from behind the dash it pegged to hot. So I am going to buy a sending unit and check that first. If not. Thermostat. Thanks again.
Don't get a Genuine sending unit from Land Rover, it will be the incorrect resistance and read fully hot at normal operating temperature. The one from Atlantic British worked for me.
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  #8  
Old July 27th, 2014, 04:14 PM
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Marc-Andre Leger
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Had a similar problem with the Hazard switch, it was oxydation on the copper contacts: clean and test or order new one and replace (if this is your first Defender, make a list of all the stuff you need and order from the UK, it's a lot cheaper... if you can ship a bunch of stuff at once).
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  #9  
Old July 27th, 2014, 07:37 PM
Kdawg97m3
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Ok sorry...

So here goes.

I have pulled the dash out and grounded the temp gauge, it pegged to hot, so that shows that the gauge works.

Next part was the temp sending unit, I out a new one in from napa..and the guage didn't move again,

I then bought a new thermostat and still nothing. I was concerned that maybe the thermostat was not seated correctly in the block. Is there a chance it could slip and sit in the block correctly?

After watching the gauge for 45 mins, I noticed the gauge didn't move...now the truck is cool and it is still sitting in the same place..pic attached.,

Thanks again for your help...I am at a loss..


I will make a list now. Thanks for everyone's help.
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  #10  
Old July 27th, 2014, 07:41 PM
Kdawg97m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maleger View Post
Had a similar problem with the Hazard switch, it was oxydation on the copper contacts: clean and test or order new one and replace (if this is your first Defender, make a list of all the stuff you need and order from the UK, it's a lot cheaper... if you can ship a bunch of stuff at once).
Which dealer or part source should I buy from? Thanks
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  #11  
Old July 27th, 2014, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kdawg97m3 View Post
Well now I am at a loss Ground gauge it pegged to hot...shows working Bought a new sensor..same issue Placed in new thermo...same issue. Seems the gauge isn't moving. Car was hot same position now cool, Same position?? I am at a loss I also noticed that the thermo kept pooping out of the hole. I hope that didn't knock it out?? Is that possible? Or will the hosing push it back? I will make a list now. Thanks for everyone's help.
That post is pretty confusing ...


Take pictures and post them because you aren't using terminology that helps explain what your problems is.

I have no idea what you mean by thermo popping out the hole ...


So you are saying you changed the thermostat sensor at the front of the engine and you still see the same behavior? It's a brass thing about 1.5 inch long with a single connector?

You replace the thermostat ... Removed 2 bolts and the housing ... And had a load of water spill on the floor?

You put everything back together and the truck still shows it's running cold?

Does the gauge move up at all?

Take a photo of the wires on the back of the gauge.
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  #12  
Old July 27th, 2014, 08:28 PM
Kdawg97m3
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Kristian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
That post is pretty confusing ...


Take pictures and post them because you aren't using terminology that helps explain what your problems is.

I have no idea what you mean by thermo popping out the hole ...


So you are saying you changed the thermostat sensor at the front of the engine and you still see the same behavior? It's a brass thing about 1.5 inch long with a single connector?

You replace the thermostat ... Removed 2 bolts and the housing ... And had a load of water spill on the floor?

You put everything back together and the truck still shows it's running cold?

Does the gauge move up at all?

Take a photo of the wires on the back of the gauge.

I adjusted my post..sorry...but yes you are correct.

I will open the dash up and snag a pic...
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  #13  
Old July 27th, 2014, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
I have no idea what you mean by thermo popping out the hole ...

I think he is saying the thermostat is falling out of the recess in the intake. Some aftermarket thermostats won't sit in the recess without something holding them. I've seen it where someone crushed the thermostat during reassembly, likely from it falling out, which bends the thermostat. I'm sure it leaked, so it had to be reassembled. The last time I saw this the motor never got above 175 F.

I think measuring with an infrared thermometer is in order.
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  #14  
Old July 27th, 2014, 09:23 PM
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Ok the thermostat sits in a little recess and can't move about. If you bolted it all up it should be ok. The thermostat is normally closed and opens when the engine warms up to let the hot water cycle. If you start the engine from cold you should start to feel the top hose warm up after a while. If all is good it should pressurize and firm up like an elephants erection! The pressure is regulated by the cap on the top of the radiator expansion / filler. Typically a faulty thermostat if it fails closed would over heat the engine. If it fails open ( not standard ) then it fails open and the engine won't warm up.

Does the engine actually get warm ... Can you feel the hoses get hot and firm up?

I'm still unclear if the gauge moves at all ... If it doesn't move at all the probably the wire is broken. Test this by getting someone to ground the wire on the front sensor to the block.

Do you have the ability to measure the resistance from the terminal on the sensor to the block when cold and again when hot? Make sure you turn the engine off as with all the belts moving you'd be a danger of losing a hand!

Alternatively test the one you took out cold then heat it up to near boiling in a pan ...

From memory the temp gauge needs 3 wires. Ground ( black ) one to the sensor and a reference connection to the battery. It basically does some Maths so it reads consistent temp regardless if the battery is 10v or nearer 14v.

Check all 3 wires are well connected.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #15  
Old July 27th, 2014, 09:33 PM
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shayne young
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Take the wire that is plugged Into the temp SENDER.(wanna say its a green wire with blue trace???) The single male spade connector brass sensor located on the thermostat housing,, ground that wire and the gauge should go to fully hot..if it does then your gauge and wiring to it is probably good.. Previous post about getting the right one is correct.. There are 2 different sensors and they will cause incorrect readings if not matched to the correct gauge ..
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  #16  
Old July 27th, 2014, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I think he is saying the thermostat is falling out of the recess in the intake. Some aftermarket thermostats won't sit in the recess without something holding them. I've seen it where someone crushed the thermostat during reassembly, likely from it falling out, which bends the thermostat. I'm sure it leaked, so it had to be reassembled. The last time I saw this the motor never got above 175 F. I think measuring with an infrared thermometer is in order.
Oh by the way .... Snap-on 'forgot' to charge my friend for the widget ... So in the end it was free.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #17  
Old July 27th, 2014, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Ok the thermostat sits in a little recess and can't move about. If you bolted it all up it should be ok.
Aftermarket thermostats don't always fit well and won't rest in the recess. This is what happens when it is crushed when bolting it together. It bends the flange allowing too much coolant past it before it is warm.

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  #18  
Old July 27th, 2014, 10:05 PM
Kdawg97m3
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Kristian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Ok the thermostat sits in a little recess and can't move about. If you bolted it all up it should be ok. The thermostat is normally closed and opens when the engine warms up to let the hot water cycle. If you start the engine from cold you should start to feel the top hose warm up after a while. If all is good it should pressurize and firm up like an elephants erection! The pressure is regulated by the cap on the top of the radiator expansion / filler. Typically a faulty thermostat if it fails closed would over heat the engine. If it fails open ( not standard ) then it fails open and the engine won't warm up.

Does the engine actually get warm ... Can you feel the hoses get hot and firm up?

I'm still unclear if the gauge moves at all ... If it doesn't move at all the probably the wire is broken. Test this by getting someone to ground the wire on the front sensor to the block.

Do you have the ability to measure the resistance from the terminal on the sensor to the block when cold and again when hot? Make sure you turn the engine off as with all the belts moving you'd be a danger of losing a hand!

Alternatively test the one you took out cold then heat it up to near boiling in a pan ...

From memory the temp gauge needs 3 wires. Ground ( black ) one to the sensor and a reference connection to the battery. It basically does some Maths so it reads consistent temp regardless if the battery is 10v or nearer 14v.

Check all 3 wires are well connected.

So when I tried to ground at the "plug" under the hood.,nothing happens..

When I pull the dash and ground the gauge directly it does peg to hot...

So the wiring might be shot??

The hoses bottom and top are very hot...

The gauge does not move at all..


Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
Take the wire that is plugged Into the temp SENDER.(wanna say its a green wire with blue trace???) The single male spade connector brass sensor located on the thermostat housing,, ground that wire and the gauge should go to fully hot..if it does then your gauge and wiring to it is probably good.. Previous post about getting the right one is correct.. There are 2 different sensors and they will cause incorrect readings if not matched to the correct gauge ..
So the housing went on smoothly...I hope the thermo is in correctly..everything felt good when going back on, I did notice once that it fell out, but I put in back together...
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  #19  
Old July 27th, 2014, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kdawg97m3 View Post
So when I tried to ground at the "plug" under the hood.,nothing happens..

When I pull the dash and ground the gauge directly it does peg to hot...

So the wiring might be shot??

The hoses bottom and top are very hot...

The gauge does not move at all..


Run a new wire from the sending unit to the gauge. It sounds like you have a broken wire somewhere between the sending unit and the gauge.
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  #20  
Old July 27th, 2014, 11:02 PM
Kdawg97m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Run a new wire from the sending unit to the gauge. It sounds like you have a broken wire somewhere between the sending unit and the gauge.
It seems the gauge is acting up..I just grounded it again from behind the dash, and when I removed the ground wire the gauge slowly moved back then stopped in the middle..I disconnected the wires from the back of the gauge and it then fell back to the C..so it seems it gets stuck or something..I am just going to run real gauges..oil pressure and temp...

I cranked the truck with out the temp plug on the sensor and it threw a CE light,,now I am causing myself issues,,
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