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  #1  
Old January 24th, 2016, 05:42 PM
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1989 petrol oil

Any reason why my oil is as black as a struck match after just changing it a few months ago? Just didn't assume it would look 5 years old after a few hundred miles
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  #2  
Old January 24th, 2016, 05:58 PM
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Build up. Change it frequently with good oil (at the very least the filter) and it will clean up.

I use 5w40 rotella synthetic. Change the filter every 500-1000 miles and top up and it will clean out after several thousand miles.
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Old January 24th, 2016, 06:09 PM
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I read about 1000 articles and from what I read the consensus was 20w50 synthetic. Why did you go with 5w40? Did it in about November, but a couple hundred miles on it. I'm just used to synthetic being good for 15–20,000+ miles
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Old January 24th, 2016, 06:20 PM
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What engine?
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  #5  
Old January 24th, 2016, 06:57 PM
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2.5 gas
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  #6  
Old January 24th, 2016, 07:36 PM
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For a 2.5 I would run the 20w50. I thought it was a V8.
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  #7  
Old January 24th, 2016, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
For a 2.5 I would run the 20w50. I thought it was a V8.
What is the point of running a heavy oil in a 2.5? You would not do that in a TDI and they are the same engine as far as the oil is concerned.
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Old January 24th, 2016, 10:34 PM
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What is the point of running a heavy oil in a 2.5? You would not do that in a TDI and they are the same engine as far as the oil is concerned.
Old series owner wisdom. I have no basis.
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Old January 24th, 2016, 10:47 PM
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Yah. Those old owners probably have no basis either. The engines have a good design with roller lifters and good oiling systems. Wear rates I've measured are on par with modern engines.

Any xW40 will be a good choice. The x based on how cold things get where you live.

As above I would run some oil through at short intervals first and see if it cleans up. It may not have been well maintained in the past.
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Old January 24th, 2016, 10:59 PM
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Yah. Those old owners probably have no basis either. The engines have a good design with roller lifters and good oiling systems. Wear rates I've measured are on par with modern engines. Any xW40 will be a good choice. The x based on how cold things get where you live. As above I would run some oil through at short intervals first and see if it cleans up. It may not have been well maintained in the past.
The 2.25 petrol is the most durable engine ever made. I have seen them run with all manner of horrific faults.
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Old January 24th, 2016, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
The 2.25 petrol is the most durable engine ever made. I have seen them run with all manner of horrific faults.
Yea pretty sure my timing is off, knocking, and carb out of tune and I drive the bastard every day lol
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Old January 25th, 2016, 12:01 AM
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You really need to spend an hour and check the valve lash, set the timing and idle mixture. Time to get to know the truck.
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Old January 25th, 2016, 12:58 AM
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You really need to spend an hour and check the valve lash, set the timing and idle mixture. Time to get to know the truck.
I got my hands on a timing gun before I left Italy. I have (had) it set right at recommended timing, and idle mixture set to 1/2 turn out from stock otherwise it idles too high. Don't know what lash is but I got myself a set of feeler gauges the other day and I'm going to pup the rocket cover off to see if at least the valves are all shimmed the same. I'll have to learn how to adjust the valves pretty soon too
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Old January 25th, 2016, 01:38 AM
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Yea pretty sure my timing is off, knocking, and carb out of tune and I drive the bastard every day lol
I saw one run, a bit down on power, but still running, with a seized piston and broken rod. Out of tune is nothing.
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Old January 25th, 2016, 12:23 PM
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I think we all just jinxed my truck. Crapped out on my on the highway this morning. Almost zero power, running very rough, and now it's dumping oil out of the tailpipe. Also think that it detonated and fractured the exhaust manifold. Yay
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  #16  
Old January 25th, 2016, 12:31 PM
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Well. Time to pop the head off and see what is going on. It is like an hour job to have the head in your hand while taking beer breaks. Designed to be fixed by a monkey in the bush.
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Old January 25th, 2016, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DocB View Post
I think we all just jinxed my truck. Crapped out on my on the highway this morning. Almost zero power, running very rough, and now it's dumping oil out of the tailpipe. Also think that it detonated and fractured the exhaust manifold. Yay
Did it get you home though?
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  #18  
Old January 25th, 2016, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DocB View Post
I got my hands on a timing gun before I left Italy. I have (had) it set right at recommended timing, and idle mixture set to 1/2 turn out from stock otherwise it idles too high. Don't know what lash is but I got myself a set of feeler gauges the other day and I'm going to pup the rocket cover off to see if at least the valves are all shimmed the same. I'll have to learn how to adjust the valves pretty soon too
Not that it matter now.

Timing: You need to check centrifugal advance (timing versus engine speed). You can have a broken advance spring.

Idle Mixture: Back out until there is no increase in idle. Screw in until the idle starts to just drop and then back out a bit from there. Reset idle speed. Repeat mixture. Drive and then check again.

Valve lash: This is the rocker clear to the valve. It is adjustable and should be set. Takes no time to do.
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  #19  
Old January 25th, 2016, 12:52 PM
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Did it get you home though?
Limped it home trying to not raise the RPMs too high just incase


Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Well. Time to pop the head off and see what is going on. It is like an hour job to have the head in your hand while taking beer breaks. Designed to be fixed by a monkey in the bush.
I know, I'm pretty excited! I had it all torn down to weld the exhaust manifold, which I think I'll just replace not that I'll be removing it again.

2 QUESTIONS FIRST:
#1: Can someone point my towards a set of good head bolts/studs (which are stock? I'm only familiar with using studs to fasten a cylinder head) Every "good" kit that I can find for petrol is for a v8.
#2: Is there anything else that I should take care of while I have to top end off? I've been dreaming of having the chance to replace the rings/bearings, main seal, etc, but I'm not going that deep into the block.
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Old January 25th, 2016, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocB View Post
2 QUESTIONS FIRST:
#1: Can someone point my towards a set of good head bolts/studs (which are stock? I'm only familiar with using studs to fasten a cylinder head) Every "good" kit that I can find for petrol is for a v8.
#2: Is there anything else that I should take care of while I have to top end off? I've been dreaming of having the chance to replace the rings/bearings, main seal, etc, but I'm not going that deep into the block.
1) Just get new head bolts. They are torque to yield and are not expensive.

2) Best to first see what broke... Look at the valve clearances before you pull the head to see if something is wrong there. Pull the lifters and look at them to make sure they are okay and you can take a peak at the cam while they are out. Note the lifter are marked and directional. Put them back in as found. "Obviously" give the head an overhaul. Clean it up and lap the valves.

Download the factory manual and read the appropriate sections first. Everything you need to know is in there.
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