1988 110 v8 3.5 no start.... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 24th, 2016, 05:25 PM
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1988 110 v8 3.5 no start....

so I got a new starter into her, cranks over now but no smell of gas...

I cannot hear a clicking noise either...

looking at wiring diagram for 77 fuel pump I can't for my life figure out where the fuse is for this one, the 88 3.5 doesn't have a fuse indicated on the panel as my 85 does.

I did go about looking at all fuses and they seem to work

I undid the fuel line in front of the SU's and it's dry, cranking while off doesn't produce flood either...

My next guess is that there might be a relay on the back of the fuse plate that only let's the pump send fuel if the vehicle is turning over similar to EFI models... I know my 86 v8 I could always here the pump running...

edit fuel gauge fuse was faulty and I was hoping that would also fix the pump but that wasn't so...
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  #2  
Old January 24th, 2016, 07:20 PM
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Did you check to see if you had power at the Fuel pump?
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Old January 24th, 2016, 07:46 PM
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IME its always been the ground connection. The pump is on rubber mounts so requires a good ground jumper wire.
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Old January 24th, 2016, 08:13 PM
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I was actually messing with the ground on the chassis that is both used by gauge and pump , gauge works, not looking forward to dropping tank to check pump . Will surely check voltage by splice for fuel gauge before I drop tank
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Old January 24th, 2016, 08:28 PM
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spark, present?
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Old January 24th, 2016, 08:32 PM
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I haven't even gone there, no fuel coming out by the SU's is my current problem . I'll get to looking at ignition side of things once fix fuel problem . Have 3 complete v8s helps trouble shoot
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Old January 25th, 2016, 10:05 AM
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You have an in tank pump on an 80's truck ? Most vee hate's use a frame mounted facet pump
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Old January 25th, 2016, 12:01 PM
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It is easy to run a temporary ground for the pump. If it is an in-tank pump, which the previous owner mush have changed, the connector might have just popped off? or the connection is crusty. Pretty common.
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Old January 25th, 2016, 06:56 PM
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I changed that tank because it was leaking, in like 2005 and then parked the truck for 10 year to age it, drove when parked. It's surely something stupid. I have the 3 wires by the tank that splice into the gauge and toward the tank. it also has a ground to the frame (which I cleaned). I need to get my multimeter out and see if I can any voltage on the wire that goes to the pump. as the gauge works I assume the ground to be good. Hence I am asking if anyone knows if there is a fuse or something up front. some lights didn't work and connections where corroded in the fuse box , little sand paper took care of that, I just haven't figured out where the fuel pump wires go, I assume it's ignition on and power to the pump, gauge... fuse for gauge is turnsignal, fuse for pump is up in the air, it might be a relay like the late NAS EFI vehicles on the backside of the fuse holding cluster.... I guess nobody has had this issue yet. I might just get an extra battery and run power to the pump to see if I get fuel coming out by the carb and then continue hunting for where the elusive fuse is.
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Old January 25th, 2016, 08:59 PM
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The pump is on the frame rail. Check the grounds and give it a smack if you have power and it is not clicking.
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Old January 25th, 2016, 09:10 PM
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I have had 86 it had the pump in the tank as do the 2 my 110's in my driveway, my 85 has it on the frame rail...

busting out the parts book looks like internal fuel pump is PRC7020

looks like there is a solanoid... PRC5543..... I guess that is twin tank stuff.... not finding much in part catalog.
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Old January 28th, 2016, 03:25 PM
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So I went out today with voltage meter, cut the crimp by the fueltank...

fuel gauge feeding wire 13.8v
level resistance 7.6v quarter tank...

fuel pump wire white with pink zero nothing...

I went looking for WP up front in fuse block area can't find it nothing...

I got 2 replays up there with 87&87A switch on them they look the same as the once from my NAS 1994

I flipped flopped them without any result.

If anyone is good at reading electrical stuff you can see WP up in the diagram, how to I jump the wires to make power to go to pump ???
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Old January 28th, 2016, 05:50 PM
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On the newer models you have a PW wire from the fuse box to the Fuel Pump relay #30. Once the relay is tripped this wire provides power to the WP wire that in turn provides power to the inertia switch and then to the fuel pump. A WG wire should be providing the switched power to the relay.
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Old January 28th, 2016, 06:01 PM
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On your wiring diagram...#70 is the gauge with a GB wire, The fuel pump has a W wire that is shared with other stuff and looks like it is coming from the starter switch, #76.
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Old January 28th, 2016, 07:11 PM
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Interesting I still can't figure out which fuse is the fuel pump. I'll post a picture later of the fuse pump panel. I have no roll over switch, there is an indicator relay and 2 identical 86,87,87a,30 relays. I'll report more in a few hours
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Old January 28th, 2016, 08:18 PM
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ok posting more pics...

Fuses all seem to work, I check them all with fluke

so I got the 2 relays that I assume handle the fuel pump

#1 Big Brown, Big Black, Big White Red and 2 small white/red

#2 a black jumper, a black, a black with white and a white/red

I check with fluke which had power but didn't write it down depending on key position might run out later.

Also I don't know if that V8 wiring I have up in post #1 is correct that was download online.
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  #17  
Old January 28th, 2016, 08:26 PM
fruitpunch
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and relay looks like this I believe same as Disco, RR, EFI defender or 300tdi

I swapped them over and also used 2 other once from another v8 I have, I doubt they are the problem.
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Old January 28th, 2016, 09:25 PM
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Marc:
That relay in post 16 is the starter relay.
The white with red energizes the starter.

You should have both a (+) and ground (-) going to the fuel pump.
If you have both and no fuel, the fuel pump is clogged or has failed.
If no (+) to pump then you need to trace back from the pump to find the fault.
As a work around, you can jump (+) to the pump (if there is none) to get the engine to start.
If no ground (-), then you need to fix it accordingly by adding (-) or cleaning up the terminals.
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Old January 28th, 2016, 09:36 PM
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Yes so I am going to jump some juice to the pump and see if I get fuel or not at the carb.

Relay makes sense for the big one being starter one...

how about the second one.. ? may be that could be the fuel pump one ?

my 85 & 86 one the pump would always be on as soon as you turned the key... I will investigate more
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Old January 29th, 2016, 06:48 AM
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The first relay is for the starter. The second relay is for the brake check relay. Have you checked behind the dash for another relay? In looking at the general electrical diagram a white wire feeds the fuel pump. That wire starts as a brown wire off the key switch and then finds a junction when it turns into a white feeding the fuel pump and a few other things.
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