1983 110 body removal question... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 12:20 PM
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George Kase
1983 110 200Tdi CSW LHD
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1983 110 body removal question...

I've reached a point where I need to pull the tub off of my 110 project and found some general body removal notes here on the forum...but if someone who has done this can help with the specifics of removing the tub from a 110 it would be very helpful...
I have removed the front wings, top, front floor and tunnel sections and all 4 doors...need to remove the rear door and window-side panels...
so...what next? theres the rear crossmember bolts...I'm supposing there are bolts on chassis outriggers...and of course the fuel filler neck...and wiring to the rear lights...
do I have to remove the seat boxes (front and rear) and the b-pillars, or can those all come off with the tub? or is it better to strip all the parts off the tub?
thanks...
George
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  #2  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 12:42 PM
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Chris Hinkle
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The tub(and roof) is difficult to move around without several people to help. I would take lots of pictures and take everything off piece by piece. Parts catalog will show how everything is pieced together, but photos help.
Now if you have lots of help, seatboxes, roof, tub, door frames can be lifted off as one piece. ECR does it on their frame swaps.
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 02:34 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I just finished disassembling the 110, and that tub is tied into a lot of things. My t-pieces were ultra rusty, so a body-lift wasn't possible. After you get the roof and sides off, the tub is still bolted to the t-pieces and some rear body supports under the tub. The rear seat brackets are bolted to one mounting location on each side. The t-pieces are bolted, riveted, and caulked into place. Since mine were so bad, I just sawzall'd them off.
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  #4  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 02:40 PM
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George Kase
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Thanks Chris...Jim, by T pieces, do you mean the "b-pillar" between the doors?
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 02:42 PM
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Yeah, the b-pillar - it it attached to the sills and the angular piece that makes up the second-row door jam. Here's a pic:
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  #6  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 02:50 PM
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I just removed the body on my 109. Using this rather unusual method. (proud to say, no duct tape used)

The bulkhead, windscreen, roof, tub , were still connected.
I wedged the body off the frame with 2x4 strips of wood and a floor jack to lift each side up.
As I was by myself, I used a floor jack and long boards to lift each side bit by bit. I had one long board about the b pillar area, it stuck out 3 feet on each side. I had another board from sticking out the back area that ran under the truck to the top of the other board. I used tires for the rear and a stool and a box to hold the wood planks and rolled the 109 frame out, and rolled the 110 frame back under.
Had to remove the rear tires and set the axle housing on a floor jack to get it to roll back under as the 110 frame was on heavy duty springs and sat higher.
So one man can do it almost alone (although help would have been nice), I got my neighbor to help push the 109 frame out as it had flats.
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  #7  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier
The tub(and roof) is difficult to move around without several people to help.
Nonsense.



I did it all myself with a rope. If you want to do it as one piece that is doable, but since I have not done it I am not much help.

My biggest tip is to drill out the rivets holding the t-piece on and just make sure you get all the bolts on and it is no big deal. Took me about two days of work being a lazy bugger (spread out over a month) to take the 110 body apart and off.

Ron
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  #8  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 03:20 PM
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George Kase
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Bryan! You gotta win some kind of award for that! That's terrific...

Follow-up Post:

Ron, can you clarify what you mean by "My biggest tip is to drill out the rivets holding the t-piece on and just make sure you get all the bolts on"...are you advising to seperate the T pieces from the rear tub? and what did you mean by "get all the bolts on"?
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  #9  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 03:31 PM
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Yes, drill out the rivets holding the t-pieces and remove them before tackline the tub itself. Sorry it should be bolts off not on. There is really nothing complicated about the process. Just keep undoing all the bolts until it is loose.
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  #10  
Old July 5th, 2009, 06:18 PM
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George Kase
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I must be overlooking some bolts...I am trying to take off the whole rear body assembly on my 110 with the b-pillars, seat boxes and rear floor as a one piece with the rear tub...it won't lift off the chassis...I've got the two bolts per side that are on the front sills to the bulkhead...the outriggers to the tub assembly...the seat boxes to chassis brackets...the rear crossmember to chassis...the ground wire to the chassis from the battery box...of course the fuel filler and vent hoses...what am I missing?

Follow-up Post:

maybe I found it...two bolts that hold the front seat box front edge to two chassis brackets on either side of the trans hump
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