150w sealed beam KC lights - Defender Source
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Old February 14th, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Russell
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150w sealed beam KC lights

My truck came with a pair of older style 150w sealed beam KC lights with suspect wiring. Considering the pair will pull 25 amps, what is the recommended wire size to run? 10 awg? That, or unload for lights that are more efficient and less of a fire hazzard?
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  #2  
Old February 14th, 2012, 11:12 AM
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Bill Adams
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Minimum wire should be 16g. 14g will be plenty. The wire shouldn't offer very much resistance(heat) if the run is relatively short, like under ten feet one way. The most chance for a heat issue lies at the connections, where corrosion and looseness can erode current flow.
I'd use a nice heavy duty Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoiod to carry the feed current with light gauge wire and switch in the cab to operate the solenoid.
Cole Hersee also makes a solid state solenoid which is very nice
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Old February 14th, 2012, 11:58 AM
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Russell
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I already picked up a KC wiring harness (#3615) with 40amp relay from Amazon for $38. Of course it assumes the battery is under the hood so I will extend the feed and ground. The length of the other wires are fine. The wires from the relay to the bulbs looked light so I was thinking it was for 55w bulbs only. Perhaps not afterall. Thanks, Bill.

How many include a feed from the highbeam relay for another trigger to the switch?
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Old February 14th, 2012, 01:33 PM
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I think it's a good idea to wire them so that they can only come on when you have the high beams on, but even then if the switch to the KCs is left on by mistake.....
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Old February 14th, 2012, 02:10 PM
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Russell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I think it's a good idea to wire them so that they can only come on when you have the high beams on, but even then if the switch to the KCs is left on by mistake.....
That is the exact combo I am shooting for. Where is the best place to tap? Down stream of the high beam relay, the signal wire to the high beam relay, or at the fuse panel for the high beams?
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Old February 14th, 2012, 02:17 PM
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FWIW, i used to use the 150w sealed beam KC units, and they'd "blow" regularly... Ok, there's the 24 year warranty, but form the UK sending the lamps back got costly and a PITA

I downgraded, if you can call it that, to 130w halogen bulb units, and have probably only had one go bad in about 5 years.

Maybe it's the vibration of the Tdi? (which I had them on at the time) or maybe 150w is just too fragile.
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Old February 14th, 2012, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
That is the exact combo I am shooting for. Where is the best place to tap? Down stream of the high beam relay, the signal wire to the high beam relay, or at the fuse panel for the high beams?
I may be wrong, BUT I think you'd want to use a dedicted switch for them but have them on their own relay that is powered up by the highbeam feed...that way the lights are on their own circuit but just getting juice when the highs are on.
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Old February 14th, 2012, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
I may be wrong, BUT I think you'd want to use a dedicted switch for them but a relay that is powered up by the highbeam feed...that way the lights are on their own circuit but just getting juice when the highs are on.
The KCs will still have a dedicated circuit and switch. But even when switched "on" they will remain off unless the switch sees a second source of power (12v when the high beams are on). Thinking we are saying the same thing....
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Old February 14th, 2012, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
The KCs will still have a dedicated circuit and switch. But even when switched "on" they will remain off unless the switch sees a second source of power (12v when the high beams are on). Thinking we are saying the same thing....
Correct, if the KC's are on their own circuit - and you're using a separate relay - then feeding the relay turn-on from the highbeams should work.

Here's the relay I picked up for the rear worklamp, I'd think it'd work for the KC's:
http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-00353004...4331891&sr=8-1
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  #10  
Old February 14th, 2012, 03:38 PM
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Not KCs but I put my Aux Lights on a 3 position switch.

Position 1 is on only with the high beams.
2 is off.
3 is on all the time.

I wired the switch 'backwards' to do it.

Pin 1 gets a feed from the high beam circuit.
Pin 2 goes to my relay (which drives the lights via a fused supply direct from the battery).
Pin 3 comes from an ignition switched 12v supply.
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  #11  
Old February 15th, 2012, 04:43 AM
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What size wire depends on how long a run it is. Assuming 10' I'd use 12ga. That will keep the volt drop under .5v and keep the lights brighter.
Volt drop for 25a @ 10 feet:
16ga - 1.18
14ga - .70
12ga - .45
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