110 sways right on acceleration left on overrun - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 25th, 2014, 08:24 PM
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Robert Davis
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110 sways right on acceleration left on overrun

In the evenings have been helping a local guy fix his 110 that drifts all over the road.
He tightened a loose wheel bearing that was recently replaced.
Replaced a tie rod end full of play.
We adjusted the steering box and tightened the lower steering control arm that was loose. The splines looked good.
The steering and front end have little play now.
This weekend well get it on the lift to see the suspension.
During the midnight test drive, the entire vehicle will pull right on acceleration and pull left on overrun.
The result is a 110 that nearly changes lanes when working the accelerator petal with the steering held straight.
Very very dangerous to drive.
Anyone have any suggestions as to our inspection process when we have it up in the air.
What to inspect and where to pull.
We mostly do engine conversions and only occasionally dip into suspension work.
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  #2  
Old April 25th, 2014, 09:13 PM
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Russell
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A bushing is split or missing all together on your trailing arm.
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  #3  
Old April 25th, 2014, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
A bushing is split or missing all together on your trailing arm.
I'd be inclined to agree. Sounds like how Huff typically drives home from a weekend at Rausch.
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  #4  
Old April 26th, 2014, 12:16 AM
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All bushing related. After the Cove I lost an entire rear trailing arm to frame bushing. The truck was SCARY to drive!
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  #5  
Old April 26th, 2014, 02:24 AM
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One mine it was caused by a loose bolt through the bushing at the axle on one side. Bolt had wear on it from the repeated movement so I replaced it and tightened it real tight. All good now.
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  #6  
Old April 26th, 2014, 06:37 AM
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We'll let you know the culprit when we get it up on the lift.
It sure feels like the rear end is swaying back and forth.
Thanks for the tips.

In an hour am off to pull an OM617 and also a complete engine, petal assembly, shifter, linkage, and manual transmission out of a 240D.
We need the parts for the diesel conversion in our 450SL...
Can't wait to get that 4.5 liter V8 out of the 450SL.
If it doesn't smell like diesel, I don't really like working on it.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #7  
Old April 26th, 2014, 08:17 AM
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Robert - so you are doing a OM617 and Merc manual into a 450sl? Sounds pretty cool!
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  #8  
Old April 26th, 2014, 01:26 PM
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I have this problem too. Realized it on the interstate on way home from Uwharrie. All bushings appear to be in place but most are rather tired looking. Curious to see what fixes it for you Robert
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  #9  
Old April 26th, 2014, 02:19 PM
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Had this on a disco and 90 both tines it was the trailing arm bushing on the frame end. Check all of the suspension bushes
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  #10  
Old April 26th, 2014, 06:06 PM
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You mean this isn't normal? My 110 had this issue when I bought it and new trailing arm bushings helped but it made the truck more "twitchy" as in it wants to change lanes at the blow of wind or crack in road.
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  #11  
Old April 26th, 2014, 06:36 PM
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Better check this on my 90, I thought it was because of my Detroit. But it does seem to rear steer more than it used to.
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  #12  
Old April 27th, 2014, 05:32 PM
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Well we got it up on the lift today and the suspension bushings are all mostly shot.
Some more than others, and some almost completely gone, like a half inch all around the center bolt gone.

Jeff, you could have had tired bushings that gave way under the extra strain of off-roading.
When we road together, there were a few challenging sections.
How about that Dickie Bell?

We are thinking polybush replacements...
Any experience with them, anyone?
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #13  
Old April 27th, 2014, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Well we got it up on the lift today and the suspension bushings are all mostly shot. Some more than others, and some almost completely gone, like a half inch all around the center bolt gone. Jeff, you could have had tired bushings that gave way under the extra strain of off-roading. When we road together, there were a few challenging sections. How about that Dickie Bell? We are thinking polybush replacements... Any experience with them, anyone?
Bushings depend on how you wheel it of course. I had some squishy (blue?) Polybush ones that squished out under extreme flex. You'll get arguments either way. I'd stick with rubber on light wheeler.
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  #14  
Old April 27th, 2014, 07:35 PM
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Im a big fan of red polybush all the way around....have had zero problems offroad, and I think they're perfectly fine on-road. Nice part of the polybush vs genuine is that next time around they don't need to be pressed out of the trailing & radius arms at the axle connection points.
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  #15  
Old April 27th, 2014, 10:04 PM
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I've been looking into this lately as I'm probably due to do all the bushings on 2 Rovers.

I hate to say this...but why cant they just make the poly kits black??

I had a talk about this with Justin and I just dont care for blue, pink, red, yellow, or any other crazy colors.
I'm that guy that painted my OME shocks satin black because I cant stand blinging yellow shocks...


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  #16  
Old April 28th, 2014, 08:50 PM
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Robert, I have replaced several bushing sets on various Rovers. If you want them to last I would stick with the Land Rover ones. They have, on the radius arms, several rubber and metal rings in the bushing. If you want a softer ride and more flex you can go with the aftermarket blue ones. They will not last as long but do give a nice ride. They can be a bear to get out as they rust in. One trick is to burn the rubber out and then make a cut in the final metal ring. It then pops right out.
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  #17  
Old April 28th, 2014, 08:56 PM
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I've been using old man emu yellow, haven't done everything just the rear A arm and so far it last but it does look ugly when it gets dirty and starts to oxidize.
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  #18  
Old April 29th, 2014, 09:55 PM
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Given how long the factory bushings last, personally, I would replace them with Genuine bushings.
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  #19  
Old May 6th, 2014, 07:33 PM
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Update on "Hit Man" Bobby's ride for those of you interested or who met him at Uhwarrie.
He bought the polly bush kit with OEM for the lower front suspension arms.
The work took a lot of time, but was very easy.

Vehicle steers straight and is a nice driver.
Over the winter Bobby drove from TX to VA, then to Oregon and back to VA.
I don't know how he did it with such sloppy suspension... another example of fondness for the marque.

Thanks for the input everyone.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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