110 SW soft top conversion - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 4th, 2006, 01:44 PM
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110 SW soft top conversion

Other than the ECR "beach runner" pics does anyone have a decent idea/picture of what the bar between the two b-pillars should look like?

Ideally I would like to buy a whole NAS cage and fiddle with it, but I am thinking for the time being (well when spring comes) I could just pull the top off and put that bar in there to allow the doors to close and use my bimini top.

By the same token, (again in addition to ECR) I saw someone else convert rear doors to two pieces. But they were all series style so if anyone has a link or something that would be great. I am thinking about just buying an additional capping and cutting it to fit and riviting it on and then putting some bolts through the bottoms of the stop upper rear doors (confused yet?).
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  #2  
Old October 4th, 2006, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Other than the ECR "beach runner" pics does anyone have a decent idea/picture of what the bar between the two b-pillars should look like?

Ideally I would like to buy a whole NAS cage and fiddle with it, but I am thinking for the time being (well when spring comes) I could just pull the top off and put that bar in there to allow the doors to close and use my bimini top.

By the same token, (again in addition to ECR) I saw someone else convert rear doors to two pieces. But they were all series style so if anyone has a link or something that would be great. I am thinking about just buying an additional capping and cutting it to fit and riviting it on and then putting some bolts through the bottoms of the stop upper rear doors (confused yet?).
The issue with the T support is you ahve to support it side to side and front to back. The T support is very flimsy. Without a soft top style cage maybe do a top bar and a lower bar behind the seats to stop flex.

There is a company in the Uk that makes a soft top wagon, but they use a Series Rover approach and it has no roll cage. This vehicle had that set up on it when we got it. No cage though (if that matters to ya)
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/100.html

Badger knows the UK company. I can't recall it.
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  #3  
Old October 4th, 2006, 02:00 PM
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I've been thinking about this one too.

Why are you worried about a piller behind the rear doors? Seat belts? I was thinking about making a braket for the roll cage. Unless you have a NAS... use a different cage, don't trust the NAS.

Series doors would be the way to go... I was more concerned with the piller in between the front and rear doors ( is that what you were talking about?)... It would sure look sweet if it was flat all the way to the rear with half doors and no pillers. Just sealt belt brakets to cage.

Also taking the roof off a 110 is kinda a PITA compared to a 90... they are flimsy and difficult to store with out warping... what were you thinking of?

Please share on you piller ideas.
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  #4  
Old October 4th, 2006, 03:07 PM
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Mike, thanks, I was afraid of that. BTW on the project POE I bet I could save that computer :-). I want to know the hack in NJ that looked at it, as computer water is soooo common.

Steve,
We are talking about the same bar.

Remove 110 top.

Put bar between two b-pillars

Fit "5 snap" side bars and windscreen bracket thing for bimini top.

Get new series middle row doors and chop into two pieces.

Pretend like I will actually put on bimini top but never do and drive around all spring/summer/early fall without a top, door tops and maybe even fold the windscreen.

I did see a 109 with a full series style softtop and actually looked at it pretty close but I have forgotten what they did to connect the B pillars. I am thinking maybe a single bar in the center of the bar between the b-pillars could connect to the windscreen to stabilize it.

The "right" answer is clearly what ECR did and tie it into the cage bars and make the top go around it, but I am not keen on 1500-2000 for an NAS cage plus the additional work to look cool.

I have been thinking about replicating the NAS cage without the foam coating as it disintgrates. Basically just take the outside of the foam dimensions and have the cage bent up to proportion.
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Old October 4th, 2006, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Mike, thanks, I was afraid of that. BTW on the project POE I bet I could save that computer :-). I want to know the hack in NJ that looked at it, as computer water is soooo common.
This one was a "no saver". The corrosion had eaten the printed circuit board and expanded the bottom edge badly. I've been able to save a couple in the past, but this one was toast in a big way.

Its funny... in most "my shop can't fix it" cases I hear about the first thing some shop will change is the ECU and in most cases it isn't the ECU or the ECU can be saved. In this case it actually was the ECU and they didn't change it. Funny how it goes sometimes.

I'm glad they didn't change the ECU thoguh, as the water was flowing right onto it, so it just would have wrecked the next ECU in a few months.

If you have no idea what we are talking about... it is this:
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/192.html
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  #6  
Old October 4th, 2006, 03:29 PM
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These guys do them http://www.allwheeltrim.co.uk/LR-Mohair.html#Mohair

Eric
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  #7  
Old October 4th, 2006, 03:37 PM
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Thats the one.
They did the maroon 110 we made into a hard top/soft top.
The system of theirs worked well and was built nicely too. Other than no roll cage it was a nice set up.
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  #8  
Old October 4th, 2006, 03:57 PM
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And that is quite cheap too.

1080ukp = $2000 or so, and for mohair . . . .
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