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  #1  
Old May 31st, 2009, 06:57 PM
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110 Sill Seal Question

So I finally got around to ordering the new style seals (those on the bottom of the door). I went and drilled out the rivets holding the old seal on (which came off easily enough). However, there's a metal lip/plate on there that I'm not sure whether it needs to be removed or not (see pic). It's still securely fastened even after drilling out the rivets. What say the experts?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old May 31st, 2009, 08:03 PM
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Chance - as long as it's solid, I say clean it up and leave it. These doors can use all the support they can get.

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Old May 31st, 2009, 08:34 PM
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Is it aluminium or steel?
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  #4  
Old May 31st, 2009, 09:45 PM
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The lip/plate he refers to is on the rocker panel, not on the door. It's the part that causes the majority of the rust problem IMO. You can drill out the spot welds and take it off, then sand, prep and repaint it. I'd weld in your rivet holes as well before painting.
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  #5  
Old June 1st, 2009, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black diesel
The lip/plate he refers to is on the rocker panel, not on the door. It's the part that causes the majority of the rust problem IMO. You can drill out the spot welds and take it off, then sand, prep and repaint it. I'd weld in your rivet holes as well before painting.
Dude, are you back in the game? Good to hear from you Kyle!

I think Pendy and Kiaser Sose have some solutions for this from preventing it again in the future.
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Old June 1st, 2009, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black diesel
The lip/plate he refers to is on the rocker panel, not on the door. It's the part that causes the majority of the rust problem IMO. You can drill out the spot welds and take it off, then sand, prep and repaint it. I'd weld in your rivet holes as well before painting.
Right, that's the one. Sorry if I wasn't clear. So it is spot welded on. Although I don't see any signs of rust, sounds like taking it off and cleaning it up wouldn't be a bad idea. Looks like a good area for rust to start. Weld it back on?

Thanks!

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Is it aluminium or steel?
Looks to be steel, but I'd have to confirm.
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  #7  
Old June 1st, 2009, 09:15 AM
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Chance,
If I were you I would have Kyle fix it for you. He did mine with new LR galvanized sills, and they are flawless. Since you are not too far from Kyle, and he has done several NAS D110 sills...
There is a NAS D110 for sale in Monument CO, is that yours?
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  #8  
Old June 1st, 2009, 09:33 AM
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Mine old 110 sills rusted away before I had a chance to examine them, but dont you want to get down to just the sill itself for the door to seal against? That certainly how the new style t-pieces are set up - its just the bottom seal of the door pressing up against the sill piece, just as on a d-90 soft top. The seals on the new style doors are identical to the soft top door seals.
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  #9  
Old June 1st, 2009, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Mine old 110 sills rusted away before I had a chance to examine them, but dont you want to get down to just the sill itself for the door to seal against? That certainly how the new style t-pieces are set up - its just the bottom seal of the door pressing up against the sill piece, just as on a d-90 soft top. The seals on the new style doors are identical to the soft top door seals.

That was my thought as well Jim. My 97 D-90 ST is exactly like what you describe. Looks to me like that plate/lip/sill oughtta come off and then the new style seal (attached to the door) would seal against what remains.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_Winningham
Chance,
If I were you I would have Kyle fix it for you. He did mine with new LR galvanized sills, and they are flawless. Since you are not too far from Kyle, and he has done several NAS D110 sills...
There is a NAS D110 for sale in Monument CO, is that yours?
I'm sure Kyle would do it right, but KC is a bit far for me...

Although I occasionally think about selling it, I usually come to my senses. Hmmm, haven't seen that ad. Where's it posted for sale? There was one for sale here about a year ago, but I thought it sold.
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  #10  
Old June 1st, 2009, 12:16 PM
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one owner too...

KC is not as far as you think, especially if you have a large list of repairs/mods.
Check out my post in the Truck Build-up's & Restores section.
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  #11  
Old June 1st, 2009, 02:01 PM
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34k miles! No wonder I never see it being driven around. I drive the shite outta mine. Matter of fact, it may be time for a 4.6. But I digress. Don't recognize the seller ID and although he's got zero feedback, the pics look right (geographically).

Ooops, I recognize the Vail sticker on the bumper. I saw that truck at Pikes Peak Rovers a year or so ago. Looked pretty clean from what I remember. Eric would know all about it I'm sure.
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  #12  
Old June 1st, 2009, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black diesel
The lip/plate he refers to is on the rocker panel, not on the door. It's the part that causes the majority of the rust problem IMO. You can drill out the spot welds and take it off, then sand, prep and repaint it. I'd weld in your rivet holes as well before painting.

I agree.
If you remove that piece you will find that there is no paint or primer under it. Drill out the spot welds, toss that piece in the trash and prime and paint the T support underneath with the products of your choice. We used to put on SS trims and such, but in the end all that is not needed.
If you search 110s on our site you'll see what that looks like with the piece drilled off.
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  #13  
Old June 1st, 2009, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ECR
Drill out the spot welds, toss that piece in the trash and prime and paint the T support underneath with the products of your choice.
Excellent. That sounds like the ticket. I'm on it!

Thanks a bunch,
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  #14  
Old July 28th, 2010, 12:35 AM
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Did you end up drilling out the old sill covers? If so did you fill in the holes before priming and painting? Do you need to?

John

How did you do yours? Galv?

Out of curiousity how hard is it to remove the whole t support?
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Old July 28th, 2010, 09:49 AM
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Did you end up drilling out the old sill covers? If so did you fill in the holes before priming and painting? Do you need to?
Yup. Make sure and get all the spots drilled out. Once they're off, grind down to fresh steel. If you use a big enough drill bit, you just end up with a little dimple in the underlying steel T-Post. Filling it is up to you. Personally, I didn't want any bondo in there, so I just primered and painted each one.

Front seals are ALR6250. Don't remember what the rear sills are. You'll need to drill holes in the bottom of the door and affix the seals to the door. The factory rivets them on, but I found some plastic trim fasteners ("Christmas Trees") at McMaster Carr that I used instead.

As an aside, my sills showed ZERO signs of rust prior to removing them, however ECR convinced me that something wicked must lie beneath. And indeed it did. The amount of flaky rust underneath was startling. Glad I caught it and ground it out.
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Old July 28th, 2010, 10:46 AM
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.....Out of curiousity how hard is it to remove the whole t support?
Hey Barry,

I am in the process of putting new Tposts on so if you have any specific questions let me know. I can snap a few pics if you need. The T posts are attached to the bulkhead in the front. You will have to remove the floor bolts at the seatbox and along the front and middle floors, also along the kick panel for the middle seat where the Tposts attach to. You will also have to drill out a few rivets: for the triangular piece behind the middle door and running up along the front section of the tub. I was able to remove the T posts without removing the tub cappings. The top of the T post also attaches to the roof. You may be able to undo them with the roof on, my roof was already off so it was easy.
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Old July 28th, 2010, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by newfD90 View Post
Yup. Make sure and get all the spots drilled out. Once they're off, grind down to fresh steel. If you use a big enough drill bit, you just end up with a little dimple in the underlying steel T-Post. Filling it is up to you. Personally, I didn't want any bondo in there, so I just primered and painted each one.

Front seals are ALR6250. Don't remember what the rear sills are. You'll need to drill holes in the bottom of the door and affix the seals to the door. The factory rivets them on, but I found some plastic trim fasteners ("Christmas Trees") at McMaster Carr that I used instead.

As an aside, my sills showed ZERO signs of rust prior to removing them, however ECR convinced me that something wicked must lie beneath. And indeed it did. The amount of flaky rust underneath was startling. Glad I caught it and ground it out.
Just got off the phone with RN about the seals. As mentioned, the new style seals are ALR6250 and rear seals are ALR6251. The rivets for front if you want them are ALR6280. Front needs 10 rivets per door. Rear rivet is RU612503 and needs 4 per door. front and rear seals are same for both sides (left and right).
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Old July 28th, 2010, 11:04 AM
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Mike at ECR took issue with me for saying this, but removing and refitting the T-posts is not hard in my experience.

Make sure to have the proper rivets, worthwhile to replace the captive bolt plates ($$ though) that hold the sill to the bulkhead foot as they tend to break.
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Old July 28th, 2010, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by newfD90 View Post
Yup. Make sure and get all the spots drilled out. Once they're off, grind down to fresh steel. If you use a big enough drill bit, you just end up with a little dimple in the underlying steel T-Post. Filling it is up to you. Personally, I didn't want any bondo in there, so I just primered and painted each one.

Front seals are ALR6250. Don't remember what the rear sills are. You'll need to drill holes in the bottom of the door and affix the seals to the door. The factory rivets them on, but I found some plastic trim fasteners ("Christmas Trees") at McMaster Carr that I used instead.

As an aside, my sills showed ZERO signs of rust prior to removing them, however ECR convinced me that something wicked must lie beneath. And indeed it did. The amount of flaky rust underneath was startling. Glad I caught it and ground it out.
Thanks I think I am going to do this. Do you mind posting a pic of your sills now. I am interested to see what they look like painted with just holes in them.

thanks

------ Follow up post added July 28th, 2010 09:14 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Just got off the phone with RN about the seals. As mentioned, the new style seals are ALR6250 and rear seals are ALR6251. The rivets for front if you want them are ALR6280. Front needs 10 rivets per door. Rear rivet is RU612503 and needs 4 per door. front and rear seals are same for both sides (left and right).
what about the little block seals that go at ends?
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Old July 28th, 2010, 07:50 PM
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I really want to see pics of someone truck who did this and didnt fill the holes in but painted the t supports. Wish I did this a long time ago
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