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  #1  
Old July 27th, 2010, 12:09 AM
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110 sill rust

I replaced my bottom door seals last year and for the most my sills were perfect. I used the original style that mounts to the truck and not the doors as I got them cheap and didn't want to deal with a big change. Anyway on the front passenger side I have rust but not between the sill and the seal but in the truck. I think this is from water running through the door and pooling on the ground (before I updated the seal across glass). The door itself is rust free inside (one spot on outside bottom that made rust mark on seal) so I want to know how to address this bit of rust before it takes over my ocd of the day.

thanks
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  #2  
Old July 27th, 2010, 10:53 AM
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It is just like fixing a cavity. You have dig deep and get rid of all the rot.
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Old July 27th, 2010, 11:20 AM
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but how do i do it there? do i remove the floor board since it is on the inside?
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  #4  
Old July 27th, 2010, 11:36 AM
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http://www.eastcoastrover.com/162.html
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Old July 27th, 2010, 01:03 PM
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Mike

I was looking at that yesterday. So in this pic:
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/162/4.jpg

I see the rust under the seal but if you look at my pic the rust is on the side that mounts to the floor. How do I get in there? I mean i could remove the floor board but what about as it goes along the seat box? Am I missing something?

thanks
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Old July 27th, 2010, 01:10 PM
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We use a spot weld drill and drill off the outside layer of metal (the part with the lip that is holding water and debris. Then grind off all the rust and prime/paint. Then install the new style door seals on the bottom of the doors instead. That old design is nothing but a rust trap, Rover doesn't use it anymore.
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Old July 27th, 2010, 01:14 PM
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I guess it is hard to tell from the pic. I am assuming I wont be able to get that rust off without taking the outside layer off
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Old July 27th, 2010, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
I guess it is hard to tell from the pic. I am assuming I wont be able to get that rust off without taking the outside layer off
You'll only be able to get what you can see, not what is lurking beneath.
Aren't you in CA? Does rust even happen there?
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Old July 27th, 2010, 02:04 PM
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Well the rust is there so I want to stop it before it does real damage. Do you put the outside layer back on?
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Old July 27th, 2010, 02:14 PM
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Well the rust is there so I want to stop it before it does real damage. Do you put the outside layer back on?
Nope.
The end result is just like what a new(er) 110 would have.
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  #11  
Old July 27th, 2010, 02:26 PM
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Do you by chance have a pic of what you are removing? Do most people remove that layer when switching the seals?
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  #12  
Old July 27th, 2010, 08:25 PM
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Do you by chance have a pic of what you are removing? Do most people remove that layer when switching the seals?
Yes, I am about to remove this on my sills due to all the rust behind the outer layer. If you switch to the door mounted seals you don't need it as Mike says.
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  #13  
Old July 28th, 2010, 12:14 AM
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I would like to see a pic of it removed. Would make it easier to understand where I need to drill to remove it
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  #14  
Old July 28th, 2010, 01:14 AM
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It is just like fixing a cavity. You have dig deep and get rid of all the rot.
As a dentist I can confirm that when you fix a cavity you do dig deep.
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  #15  
Old September 5th, 2010, 01:07 AM
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So I finally got around to doing this and I have a question. 3 out of 4 sills are basically fine. Drill out rivets and grind off front layer of rust. The one sill I pictured above is also for the most part fine but all along the curve of the sill I have a ton of divets or rust pockets I guess. Structurally nothing is bad or through but I have a feeling once painted this sill will look like shit. What are my options? I know some people have replacement sill covers that are galv sitting on the t support. Should I go that route? Should I try filling the divets? Paint and forget?
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  #16  
Old September 5th, 2010, 01:18 AM
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  #17  
Old September 5th, 2010, 01:19 AM
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Pic was before all rust removed but you get the idea. I am left with more pock marks that a 16 year old working at Mcdonalds
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  #18  
Old September 5th, 2010, 08:01 AM
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Well I took the whole thing off repaired it, took the lip thing off. and got it hot dip galvanized. The paint hasn't stuck too well but there's a whole thread about that.
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  #19  
Old September 5th, 2010, 11:35 AM
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so you removed the t support? I am looking for in place solutions
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  #20  
Old September 5th, 2010, 05:17 PM
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If you primer it and put a thing skim of bondo it will look fine (since you seem to have got all the rust), but they really should be removed and galvanized.
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