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  #1  
Old November 25th, 2014, 10:52 AM
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Jaap Kalkman
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110 rear differential/lockers

Hi guys,

This is my first post to this forum

I have a '97 Defender 110 with a 300Tdi, left hand drive. I had water in my rear diff that froze and damaged some of the pinion bearings etc.

I thought my Defender would have the Salisbury axel, but when I looked at it it appears to have the round differential casing like the newer Puma series have.

My first question is: What would be the official name of this type of axel/differential? I also see that they come in different sizes? What would be the size for my 110 diesel?

After looking into it a bit I thought it would be a good idea to upgrade to a locker on the rear differential. I am thinking to go with ARB air locker. They are pretty pricy but appear to be well liked. Any suggestions for alternatives? I use my Defender for daily driving as well, so I liked the idea of being able to fully unlock the rear diff for highway driving.

I also see that many guys will upgrade their short axels and flange to the heavier duty ones. This would mean I would need the ARB locker that fits the heavy duty half shafts. I was also thinking that I would upgrade to heavy duty crown and pinion gears.

It all seems like a good idea to me to do this now while the work on the diff needs to be done anyway.

All help and suggestions are much appreciated. Cheers.
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  #2  
Old November 25th, 2014, 10:58 AM
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Make sure it's the newer style and not a d1/RRC/d90 swap.
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  #3  
Old November 25th, 2014, 11:07 AM
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John B.
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Take some photos of the axle, especially the diff pinion, so we can tell what is there. You never know what people have done. It could be a P38 diff or a Rover diff.

I would suggest an Ashcroft air locker if you want a manual locker. Make sure you also get halfshafts and drive flanges at the same time. Just buy from Ashcroft direct as you are in Canada. Get the axle serial number and photos to determine what you have before ordering. Post them here and send to ashcroft as well before ordering.

You could do the R&P at the same time, if you want. It is less important depending on how serious the off roading is that you do.
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  #4  
Old November 25th, 2014, 11:48 AM
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Jaap Kalkman
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Ok, I ran out and got some pics....

ZG: what is a d1/RRC/D90 swap? and how would i recognize it?

Red: Why are you recommending the Ashcroft instead of the ARB? Cheaper?

Thanks very much guys!
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  #5  
Old November 25th, 2014, 11:56 AM
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That looks like a standard rover type

Also, I too would go with Ashcroft over ARB, better design.

I shot some photos to give you a better idea of the difference.

Rover type

P38 Type
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  #6  
Old November 25th, 2014, 12:05 PM
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Yah. Have a look for the axle serial number. Could be an axle from a Disco 1, D90, or Range Rover Classic.
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  #7  
Old November 25th, 2014, 10:24 PM
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I live in Vancouver and it was cheaper to get Ashcroft axels from Eric at lucky 8 than going direct.

Are you a roverlander?
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  #8  
Old November 26th, 2014, 08:57 AM
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Jamie Austin
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Definatey a D90/disco1/RR classic rear axle there.


although it fits on OK, (over here at least) it's not weight rated for a fully loaded 110... granted a fully loaded disco could match a 110 maybe, but the rules are the rules... I didn't write them,


So just be aware.
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  #9  
Old November 26th, 2014, 09:15 AM
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As long as its a 24 spline axle, I wouldn't worry about it. If you plan to go with a locker, get HD half shafts. My rear (taken from my D1) has a Detroit in it. Confess to having taken it very carefully with the stock shafts for a couple of years before replacing them with HD type. The factory units were straight.

http://www.defendersource.com/faq/Dr...eAxle.html#top
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  #10  
Old November 26th, 2014, 10:50 AM
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Jaap Kalkman
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Thanks for all the great info guys. I will see if I have a second to crawl under my truck today to look for the serial number. I'll give the guys at Ashcroft a call too.

Hi, Arcadeus, I am up in Smithers, BC. I am not a Roverlander. Pretty new to the Land Rover world. Just got mine imported about 4 months ago. I'll check it out, and I'll have a look at the Lucky 8 prices. Cheers.

Sounds like I will go with the Ashcroft HD short shafts and locker, as long as it's a 24 spline axel. Not sure if I would need different HD flanges with that or not. In the link from Rocky I think I read that the flanges are an integral part of the axel on the D90/Rover axels?
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  #11  
Old November 26th, 2014, 11:28 AM
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yes you will need drive flanges, its too bad there are no longer one piece axles available for these trucks (RIP Rovertracks)
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  #12  
Old November 26th, 2014, 08:44 PM
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Jaap Kalkman
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I had a look for the serial number on the rear axel. Not sure if I found it, they only number I could find was on the flange where the wheel bolts on. It was difficult to read but I think the number is:
15OM10 UN
Does that sound right?
Cheers.
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  #13  
Old November 26th, 2014, 10:18 PM
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It will be on the axle tube. It may be painted over and hard to find.

http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic....af3f88be14f33c
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  #14  
Old November 27th, 2014, 08:40 PM
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Jaap Kalkman
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well, I feel like a real idiot. I cannot find the axel number. I looked on the LH rear of the axel. But I don't see anything
I did find a number on the front side of the differential cover. The number is:
HRC 1124 ROVER 15 03
The last number was not clear, I could be off on that. Does that help?

I contacted Dave at Ashcroft. He confirmed from the picture what you guys all said. That it is a ROVER axel. So now my question is: is this a 10 or 24 spline? I am hoping that it is a 24??

I would also like to ask your advise on wether I would be better of with new upgraded inners in combination with the locker and HD short shafts, or stick with the old inners and fix the parts that are broken (pinion bearings, wheel bearings, carrier bearings and seals). I am not doing the work myself so the shop has put some hours in on taking it apart and back together anyway…

I believe that Ashcroft could ship me ready to go inners, heavy duty, with locker mounted. Which may be much quicker for the shop guys here and in the end be not that much more expensive?
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  #15  
Old November 28th, 2014, 03:22 AM
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HD shafts are great. And a locker puts a lot more stress on shafts. But the combination of lockers and HD shafts could have a tendency in a tough situation to put stress on gears. Thereby causing major diff issues. Half shafts are a pretty easy trail side repair/fix all going well. And a lot of blokes carry spares.
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  #16  
Old November 28th, 2014, 04:50 AM
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A friend of mine here in the UK fitted a 90/disco axle to his 110 (cheapo way of getting the disc brakes) but he welded lots of bracing under the casing, making it look like a military spec P38/rover type rear axle.


at least doing this should give you peace of mind if you do load up the vehicle.


Bear in mind too that the 110 rear discs are bigger diameter and thicker than the 90/disco type, although the 110 discs and calipers will swap over just fine... I ran with this setup (110 rear brakes) on my old 90, and it didn't over-brake the rear. stopped damn fine actually!
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  #17  
Old November 28th, 2014, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skeenaskater View Post
So now my question is: is this a 10 or 24 spline? I am hoping that it is a 24??
what do your rear drive flanges look like?
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  #18  
Old November 28th, 2014, 09:46 AM
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It does not really matter if it is 10 or 24 spline if you are replacing the halfshafts and the diff. 99% chance it is a later model Disco/90 axle. Pull a wheel off and take a picture of the drive flange.

I don't really agree with Jonesy. A locker should not affect stress on the ring and pinion.
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  #19  
Old November 28th, 2014, 10:43 AM
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Jaap Kalkman
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Hi guys, thanks again for all the replies. I will pull a wheel off tomorrow and take some pics.

Red, I am guessing that you mean that it is likely a later model axel and therefore a 24 spline?

Jim, that is an interesting point about the brakes. This is my first Defender, so I have nothing to compare it to, but I had noticed that my brakes were not working very well. When I trailer my boat up a steep hill and I stop I have a hard time holding in place due to brake slipping. Since this is my first Defender experience I was not sure how normal this was. But now I am thinking that the brakes are not doing a good enough job....
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  #20  
Old November 28th, 2014, 11:25 AM
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The brakes should be good on the truck. If they do not feel very good, then something is wrong.

Yes, later model is 24 spline. But, like I said, that does not matter. The 24 spline axles are not better than the 10 spline ones. It would be very unlikely that you have a disc braked 10 spline axle though.
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