110 Overheating - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 10th, 2013, 08:53 AM
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110 Overheating

I recently purchased a NAS 110 and it's running hot. It was a gradual sweep from cool up to hot. I started with the thermostat but no luck. The way it was getting hot led me to believe the problem was the radiator. Installed a new radiator and truck still runs hot. My fan clutch is operational but my aux fans are not. However, my understanding is that the aux fans are really only needed when the A/C is on (which I've not been running). My next thought was to check for coolant flow into the radiator to make sure the water pump is functioning optimally. A little background on the truck. It's sat for the better part of the last 6 years (900 miles in that time). About two years prior to that, the truck had a brand new 4.6 installed with an automatic transmission. Engine and transmission have approximately 2000 miles on them. Not noticing any coolant loss or consumption. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old September 10th, 2013, 10:00 AM
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You dont clarify if its realy over heating or if its just the gauge reading ? Do you have an infa red heat gun to check true temps under the hood ?
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Old September 10th, 2013, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
You dont clarify if its realy over heating or if its just the gauge reading ? Do you have an infa red heat gun to check true temps under the hood ?
Yes. Used and infrared and coolant temp gauge appears to be reading accurately (read 205 when gauge was half way between mid point and red).
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Old September 10th, 2013, 10:06 AM
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is it using coolant ? Is the cooling system highly pressurized ?
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Old September 10th, 2013, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
is it using coolant ? Is the cooling system highly pressurized ?
I have not noticed coolant consumption but I have not driven the truck much since I got it due to this issue. The system is pressurized but doesn't seem excessively so (not leaking compression into the cooling system, not spewing coolant out of the expansion tank).
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Old September 10th, 2013, 10:28 AM
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With a new thermostat and radiator how long does it take to get over to 3/4 of the gauge ? Will it do this sitting or is it happening @ highway speeds ?
My first thought was that the wrong gauge sender might be installed but you seem certain it is over heating. Rover V8's can be hard to bleed all the air out of depending on the configuration. When you switched the radiator did the ac condensor look clean and clear ?
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Old September 10th, 2013, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
With a new thermostat and radiator how long does it take to get over to 3/4 of the gauge ? Will it do this sitting or is it happening @ highway speeds ?
My first thought was that the wrong gauge sender might be installed but you seem certain it is over heating. Rover V8's can be hard to bleed all the air out of depending on the configuration. When you switched the radiator did the ac condensor look clean and clear ?
It will run hot when sitting. It seems to run cooler at highway speeds. Around town or when under a heavier load (like when travelling up a long hill) it when it tends to heat up. The condensor was clear.
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Old September 10th, 2013, 11:18 AM
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if it will do it sitting and you have coolant circulating- ie a good stream into the bottle from the small line off the top of the radiator which indicates the pump is doing its thing, I would suspect the fan clutch. You do have a radiator shroud on the truck ?

That clutch should be locked up strong when the truck gets hot. You should have trouble stopping the fan with a rolled up newspaper with the engine running once its hot.
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Old September 10th, 2013, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Premoto1 View Post

It will run hot when sitting. It seems to run cooler at highway speeds. Around town or when under a heavier load (like when travelling up a long hill) it when it tends to heat up. The condensor was clear.
100% sure the fan clutch is working?
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Old September 10th, 2013, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
if it will do it sitting and you have coolant circulating- ie a good stream into the bottle from the small line off the top of the radiator which indicates the pump is doing its thing, I would suspect the fan clutch. You do have a radiator shroud on the truck ?
There is a fan shroud present. We checked the fan clutch but maybe it bears checking again. I was next going to check for coolant flow.
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Old September 10th, 2013, 11:44 AM
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The 4,6 are notorious for overheating. head gasket might the the problem.
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Old September 10th, 2013, 12:05 PM
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I just ran into a similar issue... have you done a pressure test on cooling system? Checked that cap on expansion tank holding pressure?
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Old September 10th, 2013, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Premoto1 View Post
There is a fan shroud present. We checked the fan clutch but maybe it bears checking again. I was next going to check for coolant flow.
It's not unheard of for the impeller to come off inside the water pump.

As noted the 2003 vintage 4.6 blocks were known for issues. Prior years (p38)and the 04 were not.
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Old September 10th, 2013, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
It's not unheard of for the impeller to come off inside the water pump.

As noted the 2003 vintage 4.6 blocks were known for issues. Prior years (p38)and the 04 were not.
When I get the truck back in to check the coolant flow I'm going to get the engine number of the block. My understanding is there's a range of engine numbers that are known to be bad. Does anyone know where I can find the affected range of engines? I'm hoping for a bad water pump. As the truck has sat for the past 6 years, maybe the impeller is frozen/locked up? Fingers crossed...
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Old September 10th, 2013, 02:12 PM
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I'm assuming this has been going on since you first took possession of 110? If the fan clutch is bad (or was bad and replaced) the water pump would likely have taken a turn south too. The IR at the inlet and outlet of the radiator will tell you if you have coolant flow. Was the top hose replaced? If it is sitting higher than the radiator it will have an air pocket that no amount of bleeding will cure. The air will superheat and can cause the essense of vapor lock (reduced coolant flow) I had one on a disco that would swell up like a python munching a pole cat. With the rad and thermostat eliminated you are down to clutch/wp or headgasket. If you don't already own one go rent a coolant system pressure tester. Change the system up to about 16lb (if it will get there) and see if it bleeds off rather quickly indicating a leak somewhere. There is also a simple exhaust gas test called 'block test' that can be used to see if there are high acidic levels in the coolant indicating an exhaust leak. It works about 90% of the time. You should be able to buy it a most auto parts stores.
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Old September 12th, 2013, 04:35 PM
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Thanks

Thanks to all for the advice. Turned out to be the fan clutch. Though mine was functioning, it seems it wasn't locking up fully. Additionally, the water pump belt was a bit loose. We adjusted this as well.
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  #17  
Old September 13th, 2013, 01:12 PM
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The NAS D110 temperature gauge has known problems that can be intermittent . I would recommend replacing the gaugeand sender to a VDO vision series. And run new wiring from the sender to the gauge.
You can search about the problem on this forum.
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