110 OME754 - DC driveshaft - vibrations - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 20th, 2008, 09:36 PM
Shearpin
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Henry Stinson
'73 Series III SWB '84 110 tdi
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110 OME754 - DC driveshaft - vibrations

I recently upgraded my 110 tdi rear springs to OME 754 and castor correcting arms with new bushings at both ends. I did the front end at the same time but castor correcting arms and a double cardon front driveshaft resolved the front end vibrations issues.

In my efforts to fix the rear axle I've replaced the A-arm ball joint and bushings, installed my new rims and tires, new motor and tranny mounts, and finally splurged on a double cardon rear shaft. Prior to the spring swap the Rover was vibration free and at the moment there is no perceptible movement in the output bearings on either the Salisbury rear nor the T-case.

The symptoms are vibrations of varying intensity primarily between third and fourth gear. The vibrations also show up intermittently under engine breaking. I am out of money, out of theories, and out of parts to replace

Any thoughts? I've been speaking with a Toyota friend lately and he suggested that the double cardon rear was a poor choice given my driveshaft angle. Pics included. I've noticed the driveshaft yoke at the diff end has no black paint left on it. Makes me suspicious that it has been flexing. Any suggestions suspension gurus?

Henry
www.4x4freedom.com
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  #2  
Old August 21st, 2008, 12:05 AM
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Ryan
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DC driveshaft should be fine. The 754's are really stiff springs (I run 755's and had to adjust pinion angle to eliminate vibes). Your pinion looks like it's hanging too low. Do you have adjustable length trailing arms? If so, you need to shorten them so you have only ~1-2 deg difference between your driveshaft and pinion. On my truck, I kept tweaking the angle until I found the sweet spot where the vibes disappeared.
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Old August 21st, 2008, 12:22 AM
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Daniel Marcello
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I had the same problem. The paint on my pinion side driveshaft was all gone. This is due to the vibrations. you will need to probably change the u-joint in time. Mine blew out about a year later.

I gave a 3 inch lift to my truck and put a new DC rear shaft in there to help the vibrations. But the DC shaft actually made it worse because it was a Tom Woods DC driveshaft before they had the correct flange bolt pattern, so they gave you that 1inch thick disk to fit the TC flange to the driveshaft. This extra 1 inch pushed my angle even more. (FYI: Tom Woods now have the correct Defender flange pattern. No need for the disk)

The best way to fix this is to get the Rovertym A-Arm extension. It will bring your rear pinion angle another 3 to 6 degrees. http://www.rovertym.com/. Its $150 bucks for a heavy ass chunk of metal. But it sure works well.
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  #4  
Old August 21st, 2008, 09:34 AM
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Keith Kreutzer
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Looking again Henry

It looks that the pinion angle is fine for a standard Driveshaft, not good for a DC shaft. I hate to ask and probably already have, did you run it with your old driveshaft?
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  #5  
Old August 21st, 2008, 09:53 AM
Shearpin
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Henry Stinson
'73 Series III SWB '84 110 tdi
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I did run it with the factory rear shaft and there were vibes. It's one of those things - the drive shaft that came off wasn't in great shape. The slipjoint took some force to move and at the time I hadn't swapped out my A frame balljoint which had no resistance left. The old machine basically needed everything and I jumped on my success with the front dual cardon front and ordered up my rear. When I did the springs and trailing arms I should have run through the entire rear end. I am learning the Defenders aren't as forgiving as my Series Rover which I slowly rolling restored over a 5 year period

I think my plan from here is to measure my driveshaft angles as it sits with all the new parts on it. Regarding the A-frame extension - any problems with oil lubing the output bearing given the added angle? I hate to ask the question but is a double cardon necessary with the 754's? If the angles are right I may try to sell the double cardon rear and go back to a Tom Woods standard drive shaft. Based on the flanges on the double cardon model I think the Tom Wood would offer more flex then the stock stuff.

When I ordered the 754's I was more after the load carrying ability then the lift. I am building a rig that can do the long range runs but still keep me up out of the mud on weekend runs here in Canada. With that in mind I'd like to keep the parts as simple and as non-hybrid as possible.

Thanks for the replies,
Henry
www.4x4freedom.com
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  #6  
Old August 21st, 2008, 06:31 PM
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steve
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I have found 754's to me much too stiff to use unloaded. I run a stock rear drive shaft and adjustable trailing arms. With no load and 754's I get slight vibes. Loaded, I mean really loaded the 754's are great.
I have a set of 755's that I swap out for anytime there is not a bunch of weight in the rear.

Point the pinion up with your DC shaft. Over fill the diff anyway.
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  #7  
Old August 22nd, 2008, 10:44 AM
Shearpin
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Henry Stinson
'73 Series III SWB '84 110 tdi
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Thanks for the replies. In hindsight the 755's may have been a better choice. I don't run the truck as a daily driver and when I do use it for the commute I have an aux. diesel tank, rear mounted spare, roof tent over the rear, awning, full rack - it's stiff but does move.

What springs are you running in the front? With the diesel, winch, bull bar I went 766 up front which i am happy with. With 754's in the rear I assume the truck will sit low at the back?

An update - I did some measuring last night and found my driveshaft angle is too steep for a conventional driveshaft (approx. 15 degrees). I am looking at options for tipping the pinion up and sticking with my Double Cardon driveshaft.

Thanks again,
Henry
www.4x4freedom.com
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  #8  
Old August 22nd, 2008, 12:58 PM
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Keith Kreutzer
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You could send me the ones you have and I could make you shorter ones. We'll have to settle on the height of the lift.
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