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  #1  
Old May 15th, 2009, 12:05 AM
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barry f
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110 Oil Light and temp gauge

Just when I was wondering what project was next, my oil light started to flicker yesterday in traffic. Now when I am at a light the oil light goes on and the temp gauge rises. As soon as I start moving the oil light goes out and the gauge drops.

Easy fix?

What do I need?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old May 15th, 2009, 12:33 AM
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1. When was the last time you checked your oil? When was the last time it was changed?
2. This is not a good sign and is probably a sign of two issues.
A. The oil light is usually a clogged pick up. You need to drop the pan and clean it out.
B. Temp could be anything, but start by seeing if your fan clutch is shot (when hot [shut off motor first] run quickly around and open the hood and see if it spins freely. If it does, it needs to be replaced. If it does not, start looking into other causes (clogged rad, head gasket leak, other coolant leak etc.)

Got the brackets. PM me your paypal address.
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  #3  
Old May 15th, 2009, 12:41 AM
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About 500 miles ago I changed my oil and replaced the oil lines (trailhead)

It really could be that bad?
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  #4  
Old May 15th, 2009, 02:46 AM
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It is probably a clogged pick up tube. This is common if oil changes have been let go. It could be something worse (or something easy like a bad sendor), but clogged pick up is the most common and is easy to fix and allows you to reseal the oil pan which, odds are, is leaking. If it were my truck I would also do the cross seals which are notorious leakers (most rear main seals are actually cross seal leaks). There are updated cross seals as of about 2003/04 which are rubber not cork.
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  #5  
Old May 15th, 2009, 07:20 AM
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I had the same issue with my first D110. Like Ron said I would drop the oil pan and clean it. Also, install a new oil pressure sender (I want to say that there are two sender/sensors down there).
I assume that you fixed/corrected the temp sender set up the 1994 D90 spec. There is some debate as to the gauges being linked, that is if one has a problem another will act up.
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  #6  
Old May 15th, 2009, 07:45 AM
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One more thing to check...what was the viscosity rating of the oil? That makes a difference in the V8s.
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  #7  
Old May 15th, 2009, 10:15 AM
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I used 20/50. This was the first change I did to the truck so I am not sure what was going on before that. I forgot to mention the pressure gauge is reading on the low side when this goes on as well. Is it possible my pump lost prime when I changed the lines and it took 500 miles for me to notice?

Great another seal that I have to go order. I may just bring it in this time. pain.
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  #8  
Old May 15th, 2009, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf

Great another seal that I have to go order. I may just bring it in this time. pain.
Cross seals are cheap. If you are just doing the pan, use "Right Stuff"
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  #9  
Old May 15th, 2009, 01:31 PM
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I agree with Ron. If your pump lost prime you should have noticed right away. If the pump is getting worn out it could cause this as well, but I would start with what Ron suggested.

Another way to check the fan clutch is to leave it running at temp, and when it gets up there and the fan is spinning, take a piece of cardboard and put it carefully into the fan. Don't jam it in or it could break off a blade or two if the clutch is good, but if you gingerly put it into the fan's path it should push the cardboard out of the way. If the fan stops, the clutch is worn and should be replaced. I hadn't heard Ron's method before, but it sounds like a good way as well.
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  #10  
Old May 16th, 2009, 11:55 AM
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Brought the truck in to have this looked at and a couple other things (ball joint, leaking power steering hose). I have been running a K&N oversize oil filter, I was told this is a bad idea because of pressure or something. Anyway I will know Monday what's wrong. In the meantime I will show a pic of the owner of the shop's truck
http://www.flickr.com/photos/barryri...75550/sizes/o/
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  #11  
Old May 16th, 2009, 12:40 PM
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The CT truck is awesome. I was flipping through an old LR monthy and saw an 87 CT truck for 4750 quid. Man, I wish something like that was still available now that it can almost be imported.
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  #12  
Old May 16th, 2009, 01:15 PM
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Nice, Barry, Finally got to see the truck I've been talking about. It's pretty awesome.
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  #13  
Old May 16th, 2009, 04:02 PM
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toss the original oil pressure gage and temp gage and go with vdo. At least you will know what pressure/temp you are running at.


Good luck...

Cheers
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  #14  
Old May 26th, 2009, 04:49 PM
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barry f
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So my truck has some serious issue. Fan clutch done which they think caused the head gasket to go. Crankshaft bearings worn to the copper causing what the assumed loss in pressure. So the engine has to come out to replace the crankshaft bearings.

Question - Do I bother fixing or put a new motor in? I can get a rebuilt 3.9 but am wondering if 4.6 is the way to go.

BTW when this is done, this truck and all my improvements will most likely be for sale since I have dumped way more into it then I wanted.
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  #15  
Old May 26th, 2009, 05:07 PM
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Don't we all dump too much $$$ in these things?
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  #16  
Old May 26th, 2009, 05:42 PM
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Of course
So I want some feelers on what to do
Fix my current 3.9
Put in a rebuilt 3.9
Put in a 4.6
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  #17  
Old May 26th, 2009, 06:06 PM
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I have a 3.9 you can have for nearly free. If it were me, I would run it as is assuming it is not overheating whne you replace the fan clutch.
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  #18  
Old May 26th, 2009, 06:10 PM
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the problem is I had the engine opened (head gasket, etc) already by a shop so either way i am paying for the labor. you wouldnt replace the bearings?
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  #19  
Old May 26th, 2009, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf
So I want some feelers on what to do
Fix my current 3.9
Put in a rebuilt 3.9
Put in a 4.6
Seems to me that before you make the engine decision, you need to decide whether or not you do indeed plan to sell it.
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  #20  
Old May 26th, 2009, 06:57 PM
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assume I am selling
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