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  #1  
Old September 29th, 2009, 05:10 AM
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Overlander
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mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
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110 lift addtl needs

I'm going to put new springs and shocks on my NAS 110 when I get home in the spring, and wanted to see what the consensus is on if I need more stuff or not to deal with any negative effects of the related lift. I have new SG copy progressive springs and matched rear OEM springs (which are said to yield about 2.5-3" of lift), with extended length OME shocks all around in the box waiting for me. After I put those on, am I going to have vibration, or other unwanted effects? If you think so, what are the thoughts on the item(s) needed to resolve (double cardon driveshaft, cranked radius arms, etc.)
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  #2  
Old September 29th, 2009, 07:55 AM
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Overlander
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mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
I'm going to put new springs and shocks on my NAS 110 when I get home in the spring, and wanted to see what the consensus is on if I need more stuff or not to deal with any negative effects of the related lift. I have new SG copy progressive springs and matched rear OEM springs (which are said to yield about 2.5-3" of lift), with extended length OME shocks all around in the box waiting for me. After I put those on, am I going to have vibration, or other unwanted effects? If you think so, what are the thoughts on the item(s) needed to resolve (double cardon driveshaft, cranked radius arms, etc.)
After doing my searching I see there is a relevant thread, although it is with a 90, not a 110. My revised question is with respect to front castor correction: is drilling the swivels and corrected front radius arms pretty much the same thing? I would much prefer to correct with radius arms versus swivels, as the downtime would be much less (rovertyme requires original arm return with core), but am I missing something?

As for DC front shaft, does everyone recommend "get it, you will definititely need it" or "wait and see first"?

It's pretty clear I'll need to do something, but I don't want to overspend. I'm assuming my revised pinion angle for the rear driveshaft on a 110 will be much less significant than on a 90.
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  #3  
Old September 29th, 2009, 08:12 AM
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J. Michael McCaig
D90 ST, LR110, Series IIa, RRC
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With a 2" lift on my 110 I didn't need to do anything other than the lift but it seems each truck is different. I'd do the lift first and see how it handles. I don't have any vibes from the front D shaft either.
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  #4  
Old September 29th, 2009, 11:46 AM
Shearpin
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Henry Stinson
'73 Series III SWB '84 110 tdi
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I did the Old Man Emu heavies on my 110 - approx. 3 inches of lift. I went through my suspension bushings at the time of replacement with OEM rubber bushings. I spent the next 3 to 4 month chasing vibrations. My suspension as it sits today is smooth and vibration free - consisting of Tom Woods double cardon drive shafts front and rear and Rovertym control arms front and rear.

I bought some parts from other vendors that I just couldn't get to work. After success with my Rovertym front castor correcting arms I gave them a call regarding the rear axle. They were very helpful and patient with my questions and ultimately solved my issues with a set of their adjustable arms.

The biggest mistake I made was naively accepting vendors claims that their solution would work with my 3 inch lift. I ended up ordering a Woods driveshaft for a working length that corresponded to a pair of rear arms that resulted in a driveshaft angle that wouldn't work. In the end I had to shorten the driveshaft for the new arms.

From the information I gathered on the web some get this suspension to work with minimal adjustment. Mine required everything. Regarding the castor correcting bushings - the advice I got from a few sources was stay away. The sleeve is off center in the bushing resulting in strange wear and handling.

Things are much simpler on my Series Rover.....

Henry Stinson
www.4x4freedom.com
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