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  #1  
Old September 12th, 2014, 07:19 PM
RBBailey
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110 Just Left Me Stranded

It starts as normal, will even rev, but dies after 3-5 seconds.

It's the original 3.5 V8 with carbs.

No obvious loose wires or fluids out of place. Fuel is getting to it, and spark, and battery seems fine since it can do repeat attempts to start and run, but....

Ideas?
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  #2  
Old September 12th, 2014, 07:23 PM
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It has to be losing spark or fuel... Pull the coil wire out of the centre of the cap and just place it on top.. Start the car and watch for loss of spark jumping..if so I'd say ignition module or dist pickup..
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Old September 12th, 2014, 07:26 PM
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Does the truck stumble and feel anemic prior to shutting off, or does it just turn off without incident?

Does it re-start immediately after it dies?

Like Shayne said, spark and fuel are really your only options if the truck runs, even briefly. I'd check the components of the ignition system, then see what the fuel pressure is like.


-Ash
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  #4  
Old September 12th, 2014, 07:31 PM
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Yeah, I agree. But I don't think it's fuel since yes, it does start and restart right after starting. I can even start it and step on the gas and get it to rev for 5 seconds or so, then it dies. It dies pretty normal like.

------ Follow up post added September 12th, 2014 04:33 PM ------

I had to get a ride home and take care of the kids, but I'm going to head back over there and just see if it might be the battery, or the alternator.

Thinking it could be possible that the alternator is so dead that although the battery can crank it to start, it can't keep all 8 cylinders sparking. But I'm just making that up, I really don't know.

Also, although this is a non-computerized car, batteries do strange things sometimes when they start to die.
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Old September 12th, 2014, 07:34 PM
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sounds like it dies when the float chambers are sucked dry. I think your fuel may be restrictued and can't keep up with demand. I'm guessing fuel filter, line restriction, failing pump or blocked fuel tank vent creating a vacuum.
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Old September 12th, 2014, 07:38 PM
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That doesn't necessarily rule fuel out, though. A partially clogged fuel pickup could allow the truck to run briefly before the carburetor bowls go dry. There might be enough fuel pressure to replenish the bowls after a few seconds, but not enough to keep the truck running indefinitely.

-Ash
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  #7  
Old September 12th, 2014, 07:38 PM
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Bring a fuel pressure gauge with you if you can..
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Old September 12th, 2014, 07:39 PM
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That makes sense. ...need to find fuel filter.

Tank is all but full.

Is this an in-tank pump?
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Old September 12th, 2014, 07:41 PM
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I'm gonna say definitely NOT the battery or alternator..it takes far less juice to run the car than start it...

------ Follow up post added September 12th, 2014 07:43 PM ------

Take a can of spray start.. When it starts just keep spraying a little spray start in the intake and if it stays running your issue is fuel... Just don't use the full Monty on the squirted nozzle..just a little spray..
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Old September 12th, 2014, 07:48 PM
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Thought of that, but will it work in just one carb?
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Old September 12th, 2014, 07:49 PM
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Do you have a common air filter housing on it..?.
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Old September 12th, 2014, 07:54 PM
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No, had to get it past DEQ somehow. And it does run better with the K&N's.
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Old September 12th, 2014, 07:55 PM
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Check the wires on the fuel pump and make sure it is clicking really fast.
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  #14  
Old September 12th, 2014, 07:57 PM
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I agree with the fuel pump theory...if you need want a hand let me know. Don't think I to far from you...
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  #15  
Old September 12th, 2014, 08:15 PM
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Yeah, I'm going to check the coil... somehow....

But the fuel idea seems most logical.

Ryan, it's at Barlow H.S.. Don't go out of your way, I can get there and back, and it's "OK" to leave it there, but I'd be stupid to turn down an offer for help! Just don't give up any family time or break any plans.
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Old September 12th, 2014, 08:35 PM
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just went through this on another truck. replaced the fuel pump…same issue…was totally stumped. put the gauge on it and it was at about 50% required pressure. bad fuel pump out of the box. replaced that one and it runs like a champ.
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Old September 12th, 2014, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
It has to be losing spark or fuel... Pull the coil wire out of the centre of the cap and just place it on top.. Start the car and watch for loss of spark jumping..if so I'd say ignition module or dist pickup..
pretty sure 80's carburated trucks don't have ignition modules unless someone like me has messed with it.

Only takes about 3psi to feed those carbs. I had the same issue with Trey's 110, Isolated it to an ignition issue. truck had new points, condensor, rotor and cap and everything was adjusted to spec. I put an electronic ignition system out of a rrc in it and dumped the lucas points/condensor/ ballast resistor setup. Made a world of difference.

No idea how your truck might be configured 25 years later but the original Facet pump is on the right side frame rail tucked up behind the body outrigger just in front of the right rear tire. The oe setup had the fuel filter bowl right there as well. The oe pump is clearly audible while sitting in the truck when you turn the key to the run position. Often when the pump doesn't run its a simple bad ground issue.
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  #18  
Old September 13th, 2014, 01:08 AM
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Right, thanks for the responses all.

Especially thanks to Ryan for coming out to help.

Turns out, it was the ignition switch gone bad. I didn't notice it because it worked in battery (radio) position, and it worked in the start position, but when you leave it in the run position it dies and the truck stops.

So it was screwy because I was checking for a fuel problem and with the key turned there was no fuel pump noise. So BINGO, must be the fuel pump. But I had also checked the coil (dizzy and coil and leads are Mallory) and was not getting any spark off of it. I was totally stumped. It looked like it was both problems at once.

That's when Ryan pulls up and we decide to check the fuel filter first, since we could easily get to it and see how much fuel was being pumped if any at all. Nothing.... until I turned the key all the way to start. That's when we realized that the problem was only when the key was in run position.

So then Ryan says to jump the dome light fuse to the wiper fuse to provide power to a switched item that only works when the key is in the run position. Totally makes sense now, but would never have thought of that myself, had no clue that would work. Basically, hot wired the truck to get it home.

I guess this will be an excuse to buy the new hazard switch and bits of plastic dash and steering column that are all in that area when I get the ignition switch replaced.
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  #19  
Old September 13th, 2014, 07:25 AM
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Well done guys
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  #20  
Old September 18th, 2014, 11:53 PM
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OK, so I'm super busy with trying to start school and paint the house before the rains come, but when I get around to fixing this thing, is there anything I should know about pulling the old ignition switch and sticking a new one in? Any tips or tricks for this bit of work?
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