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  #21  
Old September 10th, 2010, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jefhuf View Post
Yeah that's funny! If it weren't for Donna you wouldn't even have beer in the house!
Yeah- Mr. "I never leave the house" wouldn't fend very well by himself. Ever notice he never has cash either ?
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  #22  
Old September 10th, 2010, 10:23 AM
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I've never understood what you need "heavy duty" drive flanges. Has anyone ever actually broken a drive-flange?

The flanges from GBR and Ashcroft are softer than the Land Rover flanges. You can tell this because of the mushrooming that occurs after use. As Joel said, you have to beat the "HD" drive flanges on with a hammer when new; but after several thousands miles they'll slip on and off with ease. Almost too loose. This is because the splines are mushrooming.

I've never seen a drive-flange break or strip, either stock or "HD". In fact, in a front application, I've seen a stock CV joint strip the outside splines but the drive-flange was still good.

It's beyond me why anyone would install a Sal's in a D90. Not today, anyway. Several years ago we did not have the gear selection we have now, the gears were not as strong as they are today, and we did not have pegged diffs commonly available off-the-shelf. We also did not really have a good Toyota conversation available. So back then if you wanted a strong axle, the Salisbury was about as good as it got. But it's a potato plow. It's huge. And, you're not gaining a whole lot by installing a Sal's in a truck that see's primarily street use and >35" tires. The Sal's still has it's place, but when you can buy a pegged 3rd member with locker and gears for $1,800 and a pair of axles for $400 that you would probably never break in the first place, why even bother with the tater plow? I don't get it. Is it so you can run bling-bling drive flanges? Or is it so you can get high-centered a lot more easily?
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  #23  
Old September 10th, 2010, 10:25 AM
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  #24  
Old September 10th, 2010, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
I've never understood what you need "heavy duty" drive flanges. Has anyone ever actually broken a drive-flange?

The flanges from GBR and Ashcroft are softer than the Land Rover flanges. You can tell this because of the mushrooming that occurs after use. As Joel said, you have to beat the "HD" drive flanges on with a hammer when new; but after several thousands miles they'll slip on and off with ease. Almost too loose. This is because the splines are mushrooming.

I've never seen a drive-flange break or strip, either stock or "HD". In fact, in a front application, I've seen a stock CV joint strip the outside splines but the drive-flange was still good.

It's beyond me why anyone would install a Sal's in a D90. Not today, anyway. Several years ago we did not have the gear selection we have now, the gears were not as strong as they are today, and we did not have pegged diffs commonly available off-the-shelf. We also did not really have a good Toyota conversation available. So back then if you wanted a strong axle, the Salisbury was about as good as it got. But it's a potato plow. It's huge. And, you're not gaining a whole lot by installing a Sal's in a truck that see's primarily street use and >35" tires. The Sal's still has it's place, but when you can buy a pegged 3rd member with locker and gears for $1,800 and a pair of axles for $400 that you would probably never break in the first place, why even bother with the tater plow? I don't get it. Is it so you can run bling-bling drive flanges? Or is it so you can get high-centered a lot more easily?
Broken no-stripped out-yup.I have seen tater plows where if you jack a rear wheel up and remove the dust cap you can move the wheel 10-15 degree's without the splined axle shaft moving- the cast iron hubs are meant to be softer than the axle shafts. I was of the impression that this was so the easily replaced hub would strip out instead of the axle shaft. I twisted a pair of Sals shafts to the point that the splines on the diff end had a 30 degree angle in them and required a puller to get them out of the diff. The flanges were also shot but might have been before. I put it back together with some of these hd flanges and new axle shafts. About a year later one of those hd flanges was stripped out. I dunno- maybe its me, maybe its the tater plow with the detroit, but I can tear this stuff up.
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  #25  
Old September 10th, 2010, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
I've never understood what you need "heavy duty" drive flanges. Has anyone ever actually broken a drive-flange?
In my case I kept tearing the rubber boots on rocks. Since I had some slop there too I figured it was good idea to set the ones with the solid caps and take care of the issue. I had no idea they were softer - I relied on the term "HD" to indicate they are superior. Anyway, I got them for the hard caps. The truck (110) came with a salisbury which is why it has a salisbury.
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  #26  
Old September 10th, 2010, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
In my case I kept tearing the rubber boots on rocks. Since I had some slop there too I figured it was good idea to set the ones with the solid caps and take care of the issue. I had no idea they were softer - I relied on the term "HD" to indicate they are superior. Anyway, I got them for the hard caps. The truck (110) came with a salisbury which is why it has a salisbury.
LOL, it's only a dust cap. Not like your axle is going to fall out of you rip the rubber or loose it.

I can understand keeping the Sal's if that's what the truck came with. That's another ball game. But these guys who spend time and money to install a Sal's is a mystery to me. To me, that's like installing a 3.5L V8 from a RRC into your 2004 Discovery; or a 2.25 in place of your 300TDi. You're hurting yourself rather than making an improvement.

It's a lot like those guys who swear by those ridicules QT skid-plate diff guards. That's not upgrading.
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  #27  
Old September 10th, 2010, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
LOL, it's only a dust cap. Not like your axle is going to fall out of you rip the rubber or loose it.
It leaked a fair bit of oil with them torn and I like the oil on the inside more than the outside.
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  #28  
Old September 10th, 2010, 11:42 AM
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Because a sals is stronger than a rover axle. Other than the easily upgradable axle shafts and flanges, I don't think I have heard of anyone ever breaking a R&P or carrier (the stock carrier is four pin). Also, the detroit for them is cheap.

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  #29  
Old September 10th, 2010, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Because a sals is stronger than a rover axle. Other than the easily upgradable axle shafts and flanges, I don't think I have heard of anyone ever breaking a R&P or carrier (the stock carrier is four pin). Also, the detroit for them is cheap.

Ron
Sure, the R&P's are "cheap". Stock 3.54's, but who runs 3.54's anymore? So you still need to re-gear. Re-gearing a Sal's is nothing like re-gearing a Rover 3rd member. So that adds to the cost of the R&P's if you're not set-up or have the know-how to do the job. I charge $300.00 to set them up, and I'm cheap compared to a shop.

You still have to upgrade the axles shafts as the stock Sal's shafts are butter.

And Detroits are "cheap" for Salisbury's? Compared to what?

------ Follow up post added September 10th, 2010 12:18 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
It leaked a fair bit of oil with them torn and I like the oil on the inside more than the outside.
Does the Sal's have an axle seal like the other Rover axles?
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  #30  
Old September 10th, 2010, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
Does the Sal's have an axle seal like the other Rover axles?
Later salisburys have the seal in the axle tube before the hub. Early ones don't
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  #31  
Old September 10th, 2010, 12:37 PM
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Detroits for sals are cheaper than rover detroits, mainly because they are a "lunchbox" style like the detroit for a 14 bolt chev. I don't regear as I am not hardcore like Dan but if you want 4.10s for a sals crawl under any junkyard rear dana 60 and check the BOM for 4.10s and you have your gears for a regear.

Other than the disc brake stuff ($100 a pop for brakets), building a sals costs less than a rover axle. With the brackets and purchase price is basically nets out near zero.
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  #32  
Old September 10th, 2010, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Detroits for sals are cheaper than rover detroits, mainly because they are a "lunchbox" style like the detroit for a 14 bolt chev. I don't regear as I am not hardcore like Dan but if you want 4.10s for a sals crawl under any junkyard rear dana 60 and check the BOM for 4.10s and you have your gears for a regear.

Other than the disc brake stuff ($100 a pop for brakets), building a sals costs less than a rover axle. With the brackets and purchase price is basically nets out near zero.
So you have to be hardcore to re-gear? I don't think that's the case at all. That's called being a cheapfuck. The advantages of re-gearing are countless, especially when you're increasing the tire size.

The cheapest I've seen a locker for a Sal's is $440.00, unless you're a moron who runs a spool. Even then I'm not sure sure you can get that in 30 or 35 spline. A 24-spine Detroit for a standard 90/Disco/RRC runs $530.00. It's a $90 difference, and that's hardly a decision maker.

I like your idea of buying gears from a junk yard. Reminds me of Charlie Wenzel.

Still I beg for the answer to the question, what do you gain with a Salisbury? Are people exploding 3rd members on a regular basis in their 90's with 35" tires and smaller?
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  #33  
Old September 10th, 2010, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Trying to fit HD rear drive flanges (LR #FTC859, RN #PLE192) on my early 110 Salusbury, but as you can see in the pic the new flanges are not deep enough. Do the later axles have deeper flanges?
sent you a pm
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  #34  
Old September 11th, 2010, 12:07 AM
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WOW I got 2 full detroit sals lockers from this company aprox 2 years ago for 375.00 each!!! they have gone up a bit!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/83-93...item334e92bad6
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  #35  
Old September 13th, 2010, 11:47 AM
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I paid $400 for mine.
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