110 Fuel Tank Removal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 4th, 2011, 12:55 PM
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110 Fuel Tank Removal

Just about to remove the fuel tank on the 110. Do I need to remove the Jate rings first or will the tank drop out with them in place? They look like they may hang the tank up... they also look a bit rusty and like they might be a bitch to remove themselves.

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  #2  
Old July 4th, 2011, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by moose View Post
Just about to remove the fuel tank on the 110. Do I need to remove the Jate rings first?
Yep. The side of the tank will catch on them otherwise. Its also easier to remove the sender unit from the side of the tanks as well, so it will just slip down between the chassis rails without catching.
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Old July 4th, 2011, 03:36 PM
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Bit of a struggle but the Jate rings came off. Big problem now is one of the bolts holding up the rear of the tank refuses to come undone. There seems to be a plate behind the head of the bolt that prevents a ring-end wrench from fitting. Using the open end and it wants to slip. Hell of a spot to try and work. The truck is a diesel. Do diesel fumes go boom like petrol fumes? Little weary of using heat or a grinder.

Re removing the sender unit... how does it come out? Is it threaded in?

Thanks
Brett
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Old July 4th, 2011, 04:15 PM
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Sender has a lock ring you twist IIRC. There are special bolts with square spacers (like $18 each from RN) in the rear crossmember. Basically you have to cut them off as they rust in place and spin. I would use a dremel to cut the head of the nut and then split it off. Diesel is not as flamable as gas, but it does burn. If I had to use a grinder I would, but not a torch and I would do it outside with two extinguishers handy.
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Old July 4th, 2011, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moose View Post
Bit of a struggle but the Jate rings came off. Big problem now is one of the bolts holding up the rear of the tank refuses to come undone. There seems to be a plate behind the head of the bolt that prevents a ring-end wrench from fitting. Using the open end and it wants to slip. Hell of a spot to try and work. The truck is a diesel. Do diesel fumes go boom like petrol fumes? Little weary of using heat or a grinder.

Re removing the sender unit... how does it come out? Is it threaded in?

Thanks
Brett

Don't lose any sleep over the diesel igniting. It's damn near inert in open air, and it evaporates so slowly it basically has no fumes. I'd worry more about causing a leak in the tank than any fire hazard. Just put some wet rags between the tank and whatever you want to cut off.

Tony
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  #6  
Old July 4th, 2011, 06:55 PM
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Sorry, when I said rear of the tank, I meant the end near the axle. There are two bolts there a few inches apart. One came out easy, the other is being a bastard. That is the one that will need heat and/or grinding. Tough spot as the suspension bits are in the way. I did have a bit of luck I suppose, the fasteners at the cross member also came out easy.

So the sender just twists and comes out. Do they normally come out without breaking?

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Sender has a lock ring you twist IIRC. There are special bolts with square spacers (like $18 each from RN) in the rear crossmember. Basically you have to cut them off as they rust in place and spin. I would use a dremel to cut the head of the nut and then split it off. Diesel is not as flamable as gas, but it does burn. If I had to use a grinder I would, but not a torch and I would do it outside with two extinguishers handy.

Not too worried about causing a leak... that is why it is coming out, leaking like a sieve right now.

I'll keep blasting the nut with liquid wrench tonight and hopefully scare it, then get serious with it tomorrow if it doesn't fall off from fright.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TS888 View Post
Don't lose any sleep over the diesel igniting. It's damn near inert in open air, and it evaporates so slowly it basically has no fumes. I'd worry more about causing a leak in the tank than any fire hazard. Just put some wet rags between the tank and whatever you want to cut off.

Tony
The whole repair got off to an interesting start. There were about 65L of diesel in the tank. Thought for sure I was going to end up with a major spill on the garage floor while trying to drain it all.

Brett
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  #7  
Old July 4th, 2011, 07:51 PM
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Brett

Missed you guys this year at the BP.

Don't worry about the heat. I used a MAPP blowtorch to strip the factory coating off my 90 diesel tank. Saw wisps of smoke coming out of it from time to time but was not really worried about it igniting.

Take it slow with the sender sealing ring-use some PB blaster and definitely replace the rubber gasket. Don't worry too much as the metal rings are cheap.




Quote:
Originally Posted by moose View Post
Bit of a struggle but the Jate rings came off. Big problem now is one of the bolts holding up the rear of the tank refuses to come undone. There seems to be a plate behind the head of the bolt that prevents a ring-end wrench from fitting. Using the open end and it wants to slip. Hell of a spot to try and work. The truck is a diesel. Do diesel fumes go boom like petrol fumes? Little weary of using heat or a grinder.

Re removing the sender unit... how does it come out? Is it threaded in?

Thanks
Brett
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  #8  
Old July 5th, 2011, 01:45 PM
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Yeah Dave, was a bit bummed not be able to make the Birthday Party this year. Had something I couldn't get out of and Dave Lowe was doing the roof on his house. Sounds like it was a good time but I hear attendance was down.

Well, I got that SOB of a bolt out. It actually sheared off, so that made life a whole lot easier. Now the only grief remaining is that flippin sender unit. I think I understand how it comes out, but that sealing ring doesn't want to budge. The tabs I think I should be tapping on to rotate the ring are just bending (well, the one I can get at) but the ring seems to be rusted into place. Certainly doesn't look as though the tank will come out with the sending unit in situ. This "little" repair is going to fight me till the end by the looks of it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Brett

Missed you guys this year at the BP.

Don't worry about the heat. I used a MAPP blowtorch to strip the factory coating off my 90 diesel tank. Saw wisps of smoke coming out of it from time to time but was not really worried about it igniting.

Take it slow with the sender sealing ring-use some PB blaster and definitely replace the rubber gasket. Don't worry too much as the metal rings are cheap.
Brett
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  #9  
Old July 5th, 2011, 04:25 PM
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If the sender is that rusty then remove the fuel lines and drop the tank, the sender will scrape down the chassis rail but it should still come out. It's easier to remove/clean up and then remove with the tank off the vehicle.
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  #10  
Old July 5th, 2011, 05:27 PM
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That would be ideal if the tank would come out with the sender still in place. Don't see how though as the fuel line protrudes out about 1.25 inches from the sender before it couples to the fuel line going forward. Is it possible to remove the fuel line flush at the sender? I could see how that would allow the tank to drop down. The way sender is tucked up in there on the side of the tank it is so hard to get a decent look at things.

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Brett
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  #11  
Old July 6th, 2011, 06:27 AM
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I've recently done a bunch of these (regular early 110 fuel tank revival party around here) ended up cutting the fuel line off and in one case hammering the pickup into the tank. Seems like most of the pickups are in need of replacement anyhow once you get a good look at it.
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Old July 6th, 2011, 09:57 PM
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OK, enough *%#^ing around here. I've been spaying unloose juice on that damn sender unit/draw tube for two days now and no joy. The retainer ring is so flippin rusty it ain't going to turn. Decided to go out and give it one more coat of looking at this evening and decided the best plan of action would be to just see it I could pry the ring off with a screwdriver. Well wouldn't you know, it was so rusty is just started to bend right out of there. Got enough of a lip up that one good pull the pliers and it popped right off. "*^$@ you you dirty little prick" I think I screamed out loud to know one in particular. After that, the send/draw tube slipped right out and the tank dropped down slick as anything. Who would have thought?

And tomorrow I get to drop one of the tanks on the Series 3 because it's leaking too. It's never over in a Rover eh.

Brett
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  #13  
Old February 7th, 2015, 06:34 PM
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I'm having the same issue with that one last nut coming off, with only a few threads to go the whole bolt is now freely spinning. There seems to be that bracket around the head of bolt that keeps from getting a wrench there. If I dremel the bolt off, how do I go about getting the new bolt in? Can't really see what I'm working with here cus of the awkward spot
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  #14  
Old February 7th, 2015, 11:35 PM
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Take a look at the parts book and it all makes sense.
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