110 Cage Restoration - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 10th, 2012, 11:04 AM
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110 Cage Restoration

I have my 110 apart and want to get the cage powder coated. The advice seems to be to have the cage are blasted to white metal, then zinc underlayer applied, then top coated in powder coat. I would like to go back white and wanted to know if anyone has done this and found a good powder match to the Alpine White LR paint.

Second item is the rubber gaskets between the cage and body. There have been some posts about the gasket not fitting well on the back 4 feet. Any suggestions on a solution?

Lastly, the cage bolts. I have been going back on forth on the stock torx bolts or a stainless alternative. I dont like the way the stock bolts corrode and would love to go with a stainless version of the torx but all I can find are non-stock looking fasteners in stainless. Any suggestions.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old August 10th, 2012, 11:36 AM
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Cage can be done in white. I know of one member that has his painted alpine white and it came out well. As for powder coating it white. Here is a pic
http://eastcoastrover.com/ecrforsale.html

As for the rubber feet, skip them on the back four and while you are at it, skip them on the front. They don't fit correctly, do nothing, and look like shit. Your best bet is to get the proper sealant rover used and ECR used. No clue what the name of it is. ECR told me and I bought it and if I'm not mistaken, I gave it to the new owner of my truck.

Be aware putting the cage back on is a nightmare and requires help and ratchet straps. As for bolts, some people go stainless but there are plenty of arguments on why you shouldn't. Personally I would buy the factory bolts or the copies that were for sale by Jerod and ebay. When I removed mine I used them to put it back on. I also bought a ton of factory fiber washers.
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Old August 10th, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Thanks for the post. ECR in a previous post recommended 3M marine sealant 5200 or 4200 to seal the body to the internal cage components then after it cures to put on the exterior cage.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Adhe...e+5200+or+4200

Finding a cowder coat that matches the alpine what will be my biggest concern.
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  #4  
Old August 10th, 2012, 04:20 PM
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I need to confirm that the length and strength are appropriate but this looks like it could be a stainless option to stock cage bolts.
http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/M10-x-2...2XOJ.aspx?nh=2
These guys also sell LR hinge and bonnet bolts
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  #5  
Old August 10th, 2012, 04:34 PM
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I just did the cage repaint (to black) and used the marine sealant on the rear 4 body mounts. The front 2 mounts on the front fender can use the OEM LR gasket as it works there and doesn't pinch out or deform.

The cage is basically bolting to itself between the inner and outer body portions so you just need the sealant on the rear 4 mounts to keep water from getting inside. I put enough in so it squeezed out and then removed excess after it cured. Came out great. You could even work to leave a lip of sealant there if you want it to look like a gasket.

AndrewT
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  #6  
Old August 10th, 2012, 08:59 PM
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I've gotten all my sandblasting & powdercoating at ICA Sandblasting on Lake June Road. I'm very pleased with the way my roll cage, bumper, rear step bumper and other stuff turned out. I'm pretty sure he can do white powdercoat too.
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Old August 10th, 2012, 09:16 PM
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I have been using custom powder coating.
We should compare prices.
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NAS 1993 D110 CDN #11/25
1997 D90 ST #1953
2006 Range Rover
1997 D90 SW #701 (sold)
1995 D90 ST (sold)
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  #8  
Old August 10th, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Jason
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Reese you mounting it yourself or is Alan doing it?

Let me know if I can lend a hand.
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  #9  
Old August 10th, 2012, 11:26 PM
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Baird M. Gehring
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese_D90 View Post
I have been using custom powder coating.
We should compare prices.
I got my front bumper dipped to remove old powdercoat, sandblasted any rust and powdercoated for $70. What do you think of that? good/bad?
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