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  #1  
Old July 6th, 2009, 01:24 PM
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barry f
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110 Ac

One great thing about my AC in the 110 was that on high it actually blew super cold. Well it did until this weekend. It now just kind of blows room temp.

Do I need coolant or do I have a nice bigger issue that I don't want to deal with? I don't think the AC has ever been recharged.

Can I get one of those kits at pep boys to do it?
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  #2  
Old July 6th, 2009, 01:30 PM
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S. Smith
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If you do not know what you are doing then have a local shop recharge the refrigerant. It is not hard, I just did mine last weekend, but if overcharge the system then you will ruin your compressor. This is one place where DIY is not recommended unles you have someone show you the do's and do not's.
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  #3  
Old July 6th, 2009, 01:32 PM
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barry f
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Good to know. I will bring it in for a recharge
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  #4  
Old July 11th, 2009, 06:20 PM
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Had my system tested (compressor, lines for leaks etc, heater valve being closed all the way) and the only issue was I was out of freon (12psi). Shop charged it to 32psi and ran it parked for a bit. Pipes on the outside are icy to touch and blows fine in the truck. Drove the truck all day and it just seems cool air not cold air is coming out of the vents. I know the 110 AC system kind of sucks but when I got it, it blew icy air out the vents albeit not in any efficient way (would come out defrost and main vents at the same time.

What else could be wrong?
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  #5  
Old July 11th, 2009, 08:31 PM
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barry f
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Could this be the blower motor going bad?
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  #6  
Old July 14th, 2009, 12:24 AM
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gene bagley
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You will be interested to know that the state of the a/c on my 2006 110 is no better than your 1994. I have a hard time getting it to work for more than a couple of weeks. Then it's a 7 hour drive to the dealer.
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  #7  
Old July 14th, 2009, 12:31 AM
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Dendy Jarrett
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Barry:
Mine is blowing cold, ... but only out of the defroster vents.
After a while, I hear the compressor starting and shutting off, and the temp goes to a mild air temp.

I have been asking around, and suspect that the cable that diverts the heat/air has an issue and is not working. I am told that there is a clamp on the cable sleeve behind the air controls in a 110. This clamp can come loose causing the cable to not perform its task properly.
Because the air is not coming out of the right place, but rather the small openings of the defrost vents, I suspect the compressor is freezing up causing it to kick on and off.

You should check to make sure your air is coming out of the vents properly. I do not believe it should be coming out of the defrost vents.

All this said ... and the system is still not a very good one.

I am still waiting to hear about the elite rear air set up for a 110. Hate to butcher the front of the truck with an under the dash model, ... but I got to get air. This 92 degrees with 100% humidity is brutal with no air.

Feels like two hamsters blowing over an ice cube in the truck!

D
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  #8  
Old July 14th, 2009, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defendercr
Then it's a 7 hour drive to the dealer.
Do you go to the dealer just outside of the Santa Ana / Escazu area? If so can you take a picture of the Series land rover on the large metal bridge looking thing?

I was there for 10 weeks and never got a chance to take a picture of it despite the fact I drove by it about 100 times.

Also wanted to visit Osa but did not get down that far
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  #9  
Old July 14th, 2009, 12:08 PM
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gene bagley
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The dealer is in La Uruca. I don't know where that Series is. I try to avoid all of San Jose at all costs. The traffic is horrible. Too many cars. I rarely drive out of the Osa except to go to the dealer. Although I plan on driving my Defender up to the U.S. later in the fall.
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  #10  
Old July 14th, 2009, 05:07 PM
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barry f
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So my blower motor wasn't shot. I had a short in the wire on top of the box. Happy about that but still wondering why the AC doesnt blow cold. Recharged system, no leaks, turn on high, pipes feel cold, drips water under truck but never really gets cold inside
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  #11  
Old July 30th, 2009, 04:58 PM
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AndrewT
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I just dis-assembled my complete AC system on my '93 NAS D110. Had the same issue where it blew some cold but not really cold. It was an old and tired system that never worked for the PO so I just decided to rebuild as best I could - including removing the dash to get at everything and clean some bad wiring up there as well. I don't have it back together yet (this weekend) so cannot confirm if I fixed anything but I can tell you what I learned.

- Key issue could be air/water in the system. You can charge up but it won't remove whats there and that could cause this problem. Need to go to a garage and have them drain and vacuum test the system to ensure its all airtight - then they recharge with vacuum present so nothing enters but refrigerant. After all my work, I think this may have been the problem with my system.

- If you still have and are using the original drier, that is likely bad. And a bad drier can clog and also not remove moisture in the system causing similar issues. Did you upgrade to R134? If so, did you swap the drier when you did that? That needs to be done.

- Check that the pressure switch on the drier is working and allowing compressor to run and cycle. If its working but shutting off compressor early than you may be over-charged or the pressure switch is bad or you have a problem with the temp probe that sits on the black-box in the engine bay (two wires coming from it - the black/green one is in series with the pressure switch on the drier and will also shut the compressor off if it registers errant temp in the evaporator which is in that black box). Note you can bypass the pressure switch on the drier but just jumpering a wire across the leads on the connector - good to use to make sure the compressor turns on.

- TXV (expansion valve) is in that same black box in the engine bay. It has an opening of around .050" so can clog easily. I found alot of dirt in mine - likely from deteriorating lines and such as it was fine dust. A clogged TXV can cause poor cooling also and other issues. I built new AC lines using a crimp tool and some hoses I bought on-line.

Best bet is to get an AC manifold gauge set and get some readings from the high and low side and post them up.

AndrewT
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  #12  
Old July 30th, 2009, 05:08 PM
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I had my drains cleaned and it recharged. It works well but after the engine gets hot, the system blows warm. Like it is freezing up. Thoughts? Where is the dryer? In the black box?
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  #13  
Old July 30th, 2009, 07:59 PM
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Dryer is next to the condensor in front by the radiator - behind the grill on the PS.

Does it always work well with the engine cool and then warm up after its been running a while? Or did it work well right after charge but then warm all the time after that?

Besides AC items - it could be your baffles are not aligned and directing air flow properly. Make sure the cable that attaches to the top of the black box is working - that connects to the warm/cold pull on the dash and switches a baffle within the black box to draw air from the evaporator (for AC) or heater core (for heat).

I also notice on mine, without AC working, it always pushes some hot air thru the vents even with everything shut off. I think the vacuum switch that is supposed to regulate coolant flow to the heater core does not work well so its basically always in some form of heating mode. I think there is an easy fix to install a bypass and shut-off valve in that coolant line so you can shut off coolant flow to the heater core in Summertime. I plan to do that before I put it all back together. This could add to some of your heating issues as AC could be working but the heater core is 'on' also thus diminishing the cooling capabilities.

Can you get hi/low readings from someone and post them up?

AndrewT
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  #14  
Old July 30th, 2009, 09:52 PM
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barry f
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ah the dryer is on the front. that might make life easier. Part number?
No heat when the fan is off. Here is what happened. I bought the truck and the AC blew super cold but the fan only worked on high. I replaced, the switch, the relay, resistor, and a broken vacuum tube. It worked well for a bit but I was blowing fuses (had a short in wire to the blower). Then I had the engine pulled and rebuilt. After that it was cool at best. I brought it in to be looked at. Seals replaced, drains cleaned, they were clogged and system recharged. Works well but when the car has been running say 20 minutes or I am in stop and go traffic, it looses the will to blow cold. If you park the truck and let it sit with the AC on, it will blow cold for say 20 minutes then not want to. Typically while this is going on, there is a puddle on the grown.
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  #15  
Old July 30th, 2009, 11:06 PM
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Part number for the NAS D110 drier is RTC7426 - Receiver-Drier

Try to find out if the compressor is running when it blows the warmer air. This will help determine if its a pressure switch (pressure too high) or temp probe issue (icing up) or if its something else like maybe your condensor fan (fan to cool the condensor - its in front of the condensor which is in front of the radiator) is not engaging and you are heating up the refrigerant in the condensor rather than cooling it as it should. If they pulled the engine, then they maybe did not rewire this back properly and so the condensor fan is not coming on once the engine comes up to temp with AC on. You can check this also to see if the fan is running when the air from the AC system starts to warm up after the car has been on a while. Both the condensor fan and the compressor should both be running.

The fact that it blows cold at start-up then warms up as your engine heats up suggests that either your compressor is shutting off or your condensor is not cooling the refrigerant effectively. It could be something else. But other things would mostly cause issues at all times - and not just when the car is at operating temp.

AndrewT
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  #16  
Old July 30th, 2009, 11:28 PM
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Make sure the box is not packed with leaves too.
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  #17  
Old July 31st, 2009, 12:28 AM
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so should I run the air with the hood open and see if the fans are on and the compressor is going?

Follow-up Post:

should i hold off on the dryer?

Follow-up Post:

if the ac is on should the compressor never shut off if everything is set up correctly.

If the fans work could it be a bad condenser?
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  #18  
Old July 31st, 2009, 01:11 AM
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Compressor should stay on. You can hear it running and you can watch the clutch on the front engage.

Sounds like your condensor is freezing. Frankly, any AC system when overtaxed will do this. Try to be less aggressive with the AC and see if it still stops working.
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  #19  
Old July 31st, 2009, 09:16 AM
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barry f
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less agressive with it?

Like don't run it?

What is the part number for the condenssor and where can I get a new dryer and condenssor?
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  #20  
Old July 31st, 2009, 11:09 AM
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AndrewT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf
so should I run the air with the hood open and see if the fans are on and the compressor is going?

Yes - make sure both compressor clutch is engaging and the condensor fan is running with AC set on high.

Follow-up Post:

should i hold off on the dryer?

Yes - don't replace anything else yet until a better diagnosis can be made.

Follow-up Post:

if the ac is on should the compressor never shut off if everything is set up correctly.

Correct.

If the fans work could it be a bad condenser?
Maybe. Condensor is just a radiator to cool your refrigerant. The cooling also causes the refrigerant to change from vapor to liquid which then gets stored in the Receiver/Drier where moisture is also removed before it goes to the Expansion Valve (TXV) and then the Evaporator where all the cabin cooling occurs.

You should check the inlet and outlet pipes that are right next to each other on the frontside of the black box in the engine bay. When AC is running, those pipes should be the same temperature to your touch - they should both be cold. If the outlet pipe (one closer to the DS) is warmer than the other, than you have a superheat condition which means that you have a low refrigerant level in the Evaporator. The could mean either you are low on refrigerant (you said you just charged so likely not this) or you have a restriction in the system limiting refrigerant flow - likely in the TXV which is inside that black box.

Another check to do is to run the AC on high until it stops cooling as effectively as it did at start-up. You can do this driving or at idle. Let it sit then for maybe 10 mins with engine off. Start up and see if it cools for a while then warms up again. This could indicate that the Evaporator is freezing up and thus restricting refrigerant flow and lower its cooling capabilities. If this happens, then you likely have a bad TXV or too much moisture in the system which is what the drier does (remove moisture). The moisture in the lines freezes up as the AC runs for a while and then limits refrigerant flow and lowers cooling ability.

These are all simple checks. I would do them and post up results. They will help determine what else to do or check before replacing anything else.

AndrewT
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