109 vs 110 Body - Difference? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 5th, 2009, 09:47 PM
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109 vs 110 Body - Difference?

Is there a way to tell the difference between a 109 and 110 5-door body? I am getting ready to order a P&P exo cage and wondering if there are any differences. Technically my "110" is an '82 109 on paper, but everything appears 110. I just want to make sure everything will still line up.
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  #2  
Old December 5th, 2009, 10:10 PM
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Jonathan

The exterior differences between a 109 and 110 are very minor. All the body parts are interchangeable. But if your truck is a 110 you should get a 110 cage. FWIW, look at the wheel arches of the 110 vs the 109. They are different shape. 109's don't have flares and the arch is in a different place due to the difference in wheelbase. Hope that helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication
Is there a way to tell the difference between a 109 and 110 5-door body? I am getting ready to order a P&P exo cage and wondering if there are any differences. Technically my "110" is an '82 109 on paper, but everything appears 110. I just want to make sure everything will still line up.
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  #3  
Old December 5th, 2009, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching
Jonathan

The exterior differences between a 109 and 110 are very minor. All the body parts are interchangeable. But if your truck is a 110 you should get a 110 cage. FWIW, look at the wheel arches of the 110 vs the 109. They are different shape. 109's don't have flares and the arch is in a different place due to the difference in wheelbase. Hope that helps.
Can you put 109 fenders on a 110 chassis??
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  #4  
Old December 5th, 2009, 10:39 PM
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yes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nikojo
Can you put 109 fenders on a 110 chassis??
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  #5  
Old December 5th, 2009, 10:51 PM
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Going from memory the wheelwells on a 110 tub are about 3" higher than a 109.
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  #6  
Old December 5th, 2009, 11:17 PM
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where do the wheels/tires sit relative to the 109 fenders on a 110??

Isn't the 110 track width wider??
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  #7  
Old December 6th, 2009, 05:30 AM
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That's my problem! Mine came with some wide fiberglass fender flares installed. Plus the axles are from a '92 Disco. I tried measuring wheelbase, but with a 1" difference between the 109 and 110, that's hard to determine. Granted I have coil springs front and rear, but I thought many of the '82s started to get coils. So confuzzled.....
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  #8  
Old December 6th, 2009, 02:07 PM
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Tracks is the same D1,90,110,RRC. WMS to WMS. No SIII's came with coils. You don't have a salisbury rear?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication
That's my problem! Mine came with some wide fiberglass fender flares installed. Plus the axles are from a '92 Disco. I tried measuring wheelbase, but with a 1" difference between the 109 and 110, that's hard to determine. Granted I have coil springs front and rear, but I thought many of the '82s started to get coils. So confuzzled.....
Follow-up Post:

easiest way to tell 109 stuff from 110 stuff is to peel back the press-on door seal. if it is a modified 109 part then the flange that seal attaches to will show evidence of a return lip having been cut off and there will be holes where the 109-style seal's rivets were. I'm curious if the lip-removal was done at the factory on the early 110 roof sides since they are otherwise identical to the SIII part. That would have been a PITA in a production environment.

I would have said the rear light configuration but I know some late SIII's had the one up one down setup. Pretty sure the press on door seals did not show up until the 90/110 range.
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Old December 6th, 2009, 04:39 PM
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Yeah, I'm still clueless. There has to be a definitive way to tell a 109 tub from a 110 tub.

I don't have the salsibury rear, but I do have rear discs.

Here are some pics of my "110"
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  #10  
Old December 6th, 2009, 05:25 PM
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109 wheel arches are asymmetrical with a swept appearance to the trailing edge. Some station wagon wheel boxes may have had a curved section above the wheel to accommodate the massive wheel travel afforded by leaf springs(sic).
Series body cappings were always galvanised.
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  #11  
Old December 6th, 2009, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication
There has to be a definitive way to tell a 109 tub from a 110 tub.
I just told you what that was.

one other way is to remove one of the fender flares. if the arch openings are not cut then you have a 110 tub. The flares you have now won't fit the 109 arch

I'll bet a dozen donuts you have a 110 tub.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover
Some station wagon wheel boxes may have had a curved section above the wheel to accommodate the massive wheel travel afforded by leaf springs(sic).
mike all my series trucks have had wheel rub marks on the bottom of the wheel arch and that is with 235/85/16. In some cases its enough to flatten the stiffening ribs.

the 109 SW wheel arches are 3/4" lower than the 109 regular wheel arches, presumably to facilitate the rear seating options. Hence the need for the curved section.

Jeez arent I mister know it all lately. I tried to mod my 109 regular tub using the rear filler from a 109 SW. Found out after cutting about the 3/4" difference.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover
Some station wagon wheel boxes may have had a curved section above the wheel to accommodate the massive wheel travel afforded by leaf springs(sic).
Series body cappings were always galvanised.
Jonathan the truck is looking good.
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  #12  
Old December 6th, 2009, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching
I just told you what that was.

one other way is to remove one fo the fender flares. if the arch openings are not cut then you have a 110 tub. The flares you have now won't fit the 109 arch
Yeah, that's no help, that's why I asked. I have press on door seals, galvanized cappings, and my wheel arches are cut. The fender flares are oversize and mount to the side of the body, not under the fender lip.

I was hoping for some tell-tale widget or measurement that would help determine.

Anyway to tell frames apart? The weird thing is I do have the larger 110 coils in the back.
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  #13  
Old December 6th, 2009, 06:08 PM
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I have a dead stock 5 door Series 111 Wagon here, if there is anything I can measure to help you out let me know
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  #14  
Old December 6th, 2009, 06:14 PM
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Thanks, but that's just it, I don't know what to measure to determine the difference!
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  #15  
Old December 6th, 2009, 07:59 PM
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early defenders had galvy cappings. pull off the press on door seal and see if there are holes through the flange, or if the flange has an obviously cut edge. do this at the rear door and not the c pillar. c pillars are replaceable and the new ones are all the flat 90/110 style flange.

nothing wierd about having the larger coils tht is normal for a 110. not sure what you are trying to determine or why. a 109 frame will not have the dip in front of the rear crossmember that 90's and 110's have. The 109 fuel tank will have square sides and the 110 tank will be a clamshell design. the two are not interchangeable I don't think due to the filler neck configuration. lets see a photo of your filler cap.

there is little doubt you have a 110 frame. the tubs are interchangeable except for the difference in the wheel opening and minor differences in the thee wheelbox height (maybe) and the lip on the door seal flange.

hope that helps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication
Yeah, that's no help, that's why I asked. I have press on door seals, galvanized cappings, and my wheel arches are cut. The fender flares are oversize and mount to the side of the body, not under the fender lip.

I was hoping for some tell-tale widget or measurement that would help determine.

Anyway to tell frames apart? The weird thing is I do have the larger 110 coils in the back.
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  #16  
Old December 6th, 2009, 08:22 PM
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Jonathan,

If all these curiosity items are related to you ordering the cage, when I was looking for mine, I was told by 2 different companies, that the cage would be same except for the windshield frame and height of roof , and judging from the pics of yours, wether it is a 109, 110 or buggy whipped, your windscreen is fro m a 110, hence place the freaking order for a 110 *LOL*
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  #17  
Old December 6th, 2009, 08:39 PM
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I'm thinking the only thing 109 on mine is the brake master cylinder with the VIN plate on it. I just need to make sure before I order my cage. Or save $3500 and make it myself....
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  #18  
Old December 6th, 2009, 09:11 PM
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brake tower is probably 110 too. but the plate and vin 109


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication
I'm thinking the only thing 109 on mine is the brake master cylinder with the VIN plate on it. I just need to make sure before I order my cage. Or save $3500 and make it myself....
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  #19  
Old December 6th, 2009, 09:31 PM
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Pictured are a 110 rear tub,110 roof, and 110 winsdshield frame. You need a cage for a 1983 110.

Where is the confusion ? I doubt seriously that you have a 109 master cylinder.

Best of luck to you keeping that high lift from snagging on a limb and doing panel damage- off road.
Wait.. never mind
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  #20  
Old December 6th, 2009, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication
I'm thinking the only thing 109 on mine is the brake master cylinder with the VIN plate on it. I just need to make sure before I order my cage. Or save $3500 and make it myself....
Looks like the rear roof sides/windows could pass as well, although they could be early 110. I would say your attempts to "ungay" the truck have been successful, looks good. If you are interested in a factory brush guard for it, I have a nice one...
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