Is there a way to tell the difference between a 109 and 110 5-door body? I am getting ready to order a P&P exo cage and wondering if there are any differences. Technically my "110" is an '82 109 on paper, but everything appears 110. I just want to make sure everything will still line up.
Yes- nice rack by the way. Same one Gustavo now has, a Rover part from the Accesories catalog.
You should be safe @ the mall but be carefull of the pipe on chains @ the entrance to the parking garage- that high lift will snag and it won't be pretty.
It doesn't protrude above the rack - your perspective is off. It's very close - like less than an inch, but that's because the top clamp is attached higher than the jack length - I still need lower it a bit. Gimme a break, I have two Hi-Risk jacks and the tall one was not in use when I had to slap it on. Jeez.
It doesn't protrude above the rack - your perspective is off. It's very close - like less than an inch, but that's because the top clamp is attached higher than the jack length - I still need lower it a bit. Gimme a break, I have two Hi-Risk jacks and the tall one was not in use when I had to slap it on. Jeez.
LOL- sorry man you make it too easy. BTW the rack sells for 600 sterling. Lr Series still carries them. Thats the predecessor to the G4 rack.
High Risk is right that Jessie Ware story is enough to make me leave mine @ home most trips.
LOL- sorry man you make it too easy. BTW the rack sells for 600 sterling. Lr Series still carries them. Thats the predecessor to the G4 rack.
High Risk is right that Jessie Ware story is enough to make me leave mine @ home most trips.
I've smashed my hand and had a 53 Willys Wagon body fall over and almost squish me, but that's because I being stupid with it. But for winching, lifting, clamping, and straightening bent stuff, there's no better tool.
I think he's referring to John Cranfield getting his eye socket bashed in by one @ an event in Maine, I believe whilst raising or lowering Jesse's 110. Just one moment of inattention with the handle in the down position...then something slipped and the handle came up quick. John had to get medevac'd out and now has a glass eye for his troubles.
I think he's referring to John Cranfield getting his eye socket bashed in by one @ an event in Maine, I believe whilst raising or lowering Jesse's 110. Just one moment of inattention with the handle in the down position...then something slipped and the handle came up quick. John had to get medevac'd out and now has a glass eye for his troubles.
I think he's referring to John Cranfield getting his eye socket bashed in by one @ an event in Maine, I believe whilst raising or lowering Jesse's 110. Just one moment of inattention with the handle in the down position...then something slipped and the handle came up quick. John had to get medevac'd out and now has a glass eye for his troubles.
Halloween Extreme about 7 or 8 years ago. I was there (with Dom in his not so extreme disco I) and saw it happen. John was jacking on the front bumper of the white rhino (JW's 110) and I am not sure exactly what happened, but the handle was not locked up and the handle hit John in the head. John was convulsing after being hit in the head with the handle. Very scary. Dom had it on video which, of course, we never watched as it was too traumatic. Have not used a hi-lift since then. I finally dug the one I had in new york out of the garage and am considering trying it again, but I have not.
should really start a new thread on this but basically you want to make sure your hand is on that handle at all times while the vehicle is being raised or lowered. When the jack is at rest and there is a load on it the handle MUST be in the UP position.
I think John said the pins were not functioning correctly. FWIW I have a hi-lift that I bought in 1995 at CT farm and family in Watertown NY on the way back from buying my first 88. It has sat on the back of one truck or another for the last 14 years in all manner of weather and has been used in anger in mud and sand (never had to use it in snow). It is rusty and the climbing rack is bent. I thought better of continuing to use it, so I bought a new JackAll @ Canadian Tire. The new one will not lower the car no matter what I do. It will drop to the lower pin and then they just stop working. If you try to tap the stuck pin it just releases the load and the truck drops back to the ground. What's the point of this? Dunno, other than to put in a plug for the hi-lift brand I guess.
evilfij said:
Halloween Extreme about 7 or 8 years ago. I was there (with Dom in his not so extreme disco I) and saw it happen. John was jacking on the front bumper of the white rhino (JW's 110) and I am not sure exactly what happened, but the handle was not locked up and the handle hit John in the head. John was convulsing after being hit in the head with the handle. Very scary. Dom had it on video which, of course, we never watched as it was too traumatic. Have not used a hi-lift since then. I finally dug the one I had in new york out of the garage and am considering trying it again, but I have not.
should really start a new thread on this but basically you want to make sure your hand is on that handle at all times while the vehicle is being raised or lowered. When the jack is at rest and there is a load on it the handle MUST be in the UP position.
I think John said the pins were not functioning correctly. FWIW I have a hi-lift that I bought in 1995 at CT farm and family in Watertown NY on the way back from buying my first 88. It has sat on the back of one truck or another for the last 14 years in all manner of weather and has been used in anger in mud and sand (never had to use it in snow). It is rusty and the climbing rack is bent. I thought better of continuing to use it, so I bought a new JackAll @ Canadian Tire. The new one will not lower the car no matter what I do. It will drop to the lower pin and then they just stop working. If you try to tap the stuck pin it just releases the load and the truck drops back to the ground. What's the point of this? Dunno, other than to put in a plug for the hi-lift brand I guess.
Aside from the very real safety points being brought up here (having seen it myself, thankfully not as bad as the above story, when my truck nearly drop onto Tommy D (Skydiver) b/c we were 'quickly' changing a tire and the jack slid) I thought it would be worth throwing out that the hi-lift 'X-treme' may not be all that extreme afterall. During the pre-MAR days this summer I used mine, as intended and with an extremely close eye on it, to break the suction of the mud that was preventing my truck from getting out of the obstacle we were in. Tommy and I-he's always around when this stuff happens-had the sand ladders under one tire and were getting them under the other when the jack let go-I thought the pins were bent and just threw the jack down to rebuild later.
When Tony and I went to rebuild it a few weeks ago we discovered that not only were the pins bent but the climbing mechanism itself had broken-specifically the metal that runs down the length had sheared a couple of inches off and thus it wouldn't hold while racheting up.
Clearly proper hi-lift terminology is kicking my ass here-the end result being I now have a hybrid (appropriate for this thread, eh?) hi lift that has an extreme body, and a regular old red climbing mechanism on it-and I only plan on using when I have to, otherwise it stays where it should-racheted down across the back seat floorboard.
r-
Ray
hi-lifts are dangerous when not even in used. I don't know how many times I've walked around the back of my truck too closely and narrowly missed taking an eye out!
88" SWB sides, with or without windows fit perfectly on the 110" rear station wagon lower body and they look like series or very early 110 rear windows. the roof is a 110 hardtop/ van roof - no alpine windows.
Early 110"s and 90"s had external ribs n the roof ( up to around 1990)
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