1.2 D2 transfer case into Defender - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 6th, 2015, 11:25 AM
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Question 1.2 D2 transfer case into Defender

Ok, quick question...I'm slapping a low-mileage 1999 D2 tcase into my NAS90 (D2 case has difflock/etc and is a pretty straight drop-in).

I know when you do this swap, you have to remove/blank the solenoid shown here in the left of the photo. However, what about the switch/plug on the right? My old tcase doesn't have this switch/plug on the right either...but just wasn't sure if I leave the other switch, or if I should remove and blank that one as well.
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Here's the side-by-side comparison (original case on the left, D2 case on the right). For posterity and anyone else that does this swap, you also have to swap the rear/output stub housing from the old case to the new one in order to keep your speedo gear/input (that would be the stub housing shown on the leftside of both cases).
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  #2  
Old May 6th, 2015, 11:50 AM
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Just leave it. I think that's the Hi/Lo switch that the BCU and SLABS uses to determine what range you are in for manual vs sport mode and traction control.

Or maybe it's the temp sensor?

EDIT, I think the hi-lo is on the front housing instead.

------ Follow up post added May 6th, 2015 10:55 AM ------

Oh, I guess there is a neutral sensing switch too. AMR6666 | AUTO TRANS AUD WARNING SWITCH DIS11 | Land Rover | Discovery 2 - 1999 to 2004 | Britcar (UK) Ltd AMR6666
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  #3  
Old May 6th, 2015, 12:01 PM
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On mine, I needed to drill and tap a couple of spots for the parking brake cable mounts as well. The switch can remain.
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  #4  
Old May 6th, 2015, 12:35 PM
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Aaaaahh...ok, that makes sense. I just realized there's another switch on the backside of the front stub housing as well - the green harness/wire shown below. I'm guessing same deal, or maybe this is the "neutral" switch?
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This tcase looks to be an early enough one that it actually has the 2 drilled/tapped mounts already for the parking brake cable (luckily!).
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  #5  
Old May 6th, 2015, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
On mine, I needed to drill and tap a couple of spots for the parking brake cable mounts as well. The switch can remain.
Same here. I have an RRC tcase in mine.
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Old May 6th, 2015, 04:26 PM
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Jason,

you may use the two electrical switches to illuminate two lamps for low (in front of the housing) or high (on top of it).

It's not necessary to change the rear housing to get the right speedo gear mounted.
Just replace the small housing holding the speedo gear in place.

You may also have a look at this http://www.defendersource.com/forum/f6/lt-230-disco-ratio-to-defender-59320.html#post602293


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  #7  
Old May 6th, 2015, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arlo View Post
Jason,

you may use the two electrical switches to illuminate two lamps for low (in front of the housing) or high (on top of it).

It's not necessary to change the rear housing to get the right speedo gear mounted.
Just replace the small housing holding the speedo gear in place.

You may also have a look at this http://www.defendersource.com/forum/f6/lt-230-disco-ratio-to-defender-59320.html#post602293

Arlo:

Nice rebuild! From what I could see, there was no way to add the speedo gear on the existing rear housing without drilling the case (there was a blank spot, but would need to be drilled out with a hole saw I'd assume). It was easy enough to swap the rear housing so I already went that route.

That'd be interesting to have a "Low" gear lamp on when it's in low, though not sure I'd want the "High" light staring at me from the dash binnacle all the time when I was on the road...but I'll probably skip these all together and just utilize the standard difflock light only.

Speaking of difflock light, I'm assuming I can use the existing plunger/switch that's on the D2 unit...seems to have the same 2 prongs sticking up (one for ground, one to the dash light I'm guessing). Is that right? Or do I need to switch over my switch/plunger from the old case?
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  #8  
Old May 6th, 2015, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Arlo:

Nice rebuild! From what I could see, there was no way to add the speedo gear on the existing rear housing without drilling the case (there was a blank spot, but would need to be drilled out with a hole saw I'd assume). It was easy enough to swap the rear housing so I already went that route.

That'd be interesting to have a "Low" gear lamp on when it's in low, though not sure I'd want the "High" light staring at me from the dash binnacle all the time when I was on the road...but I'll probably skip these all together and just utilize the standard difflock light only.

Speaking of difflock light, I'm assuming I can use the existing plunger/switch that's on the D2 unit...seems to have the same 2 prongs sticking up (one for ground, one to the dash light I'm guessing). Is that right? Or do I need to switch over my switch/plunger from the old case?
Difflock light is just an on or off unit.

But if you changed the rear housing you might get in trouble with the preload of the diff-shaft?
Remember: the outer ring of that taper roller bearing is to be set first about just one mm in deapth, then followed by the secured housing, the finally setting of that ring will be set!
This position is zero of all measurements for this shaft!
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  #9  
Old May 6th, 2015, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arlo View Post
Difflock light is just an on or off unit.

But if you changed the rear housing you might get in trouble with the preload of the diff-shaft?
Remember: the outer ring of that taper roller bearing is to be set first about just one mm in deapth, then followed by the secured housing, the finally setting of that ring will be set!
This position is zero of all measurements for this shaft!
Hmmm...I did some basic measurements before I swapped them, and seemed to be spot-on. I also talked to Dave Ashcroft on the phone as well and that's what he recommended (just swapping over the high/low housing from my old unit as well as the rear housing to keep the speedo). He made it sound like it was a straight swap with no issue, and hey...it is Ashcroft we're talking about here .
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  #10  
Old May 6th, 2015, 10:07 PM
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I did this just over a year ago and swapped the rear output housing and diff lock housing. I replaced the front and rear output seals and did the right stuff thing on the access panels while I was at it. I didn't measure much of anything and figured it out on the fly. About 15k miles later, it all seems to be working just fine.
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  #11  
Old May 6th, 2015, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamkraig View Post
I did this just over a year ago and swapped the rear output housing and diff lock housing. I replaced the front and rear output seals and did the right stuff thing on the access panels while I was at it. I didn't measure much of anything and figured it out on the fly. About 15k miles later, it all seems to be working just fine.
THAT'S what I like to hear ! I'm pretty much there with what you did above, the only difference is I made a ghetto flat cover to fit the solenoid spot (below...instead of gutting it and reusing the housing). Other than that, did exactly as you described....and hopefully all will be going back in tomorrow if I get the gusto to finish.
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  #12  
Old May 6th, 2015, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
THAT'S what I like to hear ! I'm pretty much there with what you did above, the only difference is I made a ghetto flat cover to fit the solenoid spot (below...instead of gutting it and reusing the housing). Other than that, did exactly as you described....and hopefully all will be going back in tomorrow if I get the gusto to finish.

Not exactly the fit and finish of the series defender outfitters typical offering.
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Old May 6th, 2015, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Iamkraig View Post
Not exactly the fit and finish of the series defender outfitters typical offering.
Amen ! I did preface it with "ghetto"...and I needed to meet Larson & Galpin for an impromptu happy hour so I was in a rush! Plus...it's just going to get covered in mud @ Rausch in a few weeks anyhow...
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  #14  
Old May 7th, 2015, 07:55 AM
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Ok last question. The round inspection cover had some right stuff holding it on.

However...the inner round "retaining ring" (for lack of a better term) that holds the input gear in place, unbelievably appears to not have any gasket or sealant? This really does not seem correct, and I'm likely going to smear some RightStuff on there....BUT any reason why it wouldn't (or shouldn't) be sealed with something?
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Old May 7th, 2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Ok last question. The round inspection cover had some right stuff holding it on.

However...the inner round "retaining ring" (for lack of a better term) that holds the input gear in place, unbelievably appears to not have any gasket or sealant? This really does not seem correct, and I'm likely going to smear some RightStuff on there....BUT any reason why it wouldn't (or shouldn't) be sealed with something?
Ok, it looks like the manual does call for a sealant between there (per #8 on the below). However...it's calling for "Hylosil 2000".

I'm assuming I could just use a very thin smear of RightStuff on there, but I also have some Hylomar Blue on hand as well...would either of these work sufficiently? Or should I source out a true replacement for this 'Hylosil 2000' stuff?
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Old May 7th, 2015, 10:54 AM
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I dunno Jason, but we use Right Stuff on many things now that call for something else from "back in the day". I expect if the stuff existed then it would be what the manuals require now. Just do it.
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Old May 7th, 2015, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Hmmm...I did some basic measurements before I swapped them, and seemed to be spot-on. I also talked to Dave Ashcroft on the phone as well and that's what he recommended (just swapping over the high/low housing from my old unit as well as the rear housing to keep the speedo). He made it sound like it was a straight swap with no issue, and hey...it is Ashcroft we're talking about here .
written was "you might get ..."
And yes we're talking about Dave.
10 to 15% of his transmissions doesn't work fine, a dealer here in Germany told me last weekend (Index).

But it's ok to seal that part with liquid seal.
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Old May 7th, 2015, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Ok, it looks like the manual does call for a sealant between there (per #8 on the below). However...it's calling for "Hylosil 2000".

I'm assuming I could just use a very thin smear of RightStuff on there, but I also have some Hylomar Blue on hand as well...would either of these work sufficiently? Or should I source out a true replacement for this 'Hylosil 2000' stuff?
You probably want to use flange sealant rather than Right Stuff. Right stuff will be a lot thicker and will change the load on those bearings. I've used Right Stuff there, but whenever available I use flange sealant. Is Hylosil the same as Hylomar?
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Old May 7th, 2015, 06:44 PM
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I have only used Hylomar on valley pan's - I think it is just a sticky gasket seal that prevents slippage when you put crap together.....at least that is what i thought
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Old May 7th, 2015, 10:09 PM
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This is the 5th time I've had to do an in-or-out on a tcase in the past 2 weeks...I honestly don't care to do it again for awhile! Getting them out is a piece of cake, but man humping that sucker up and into place solo REALLY suuuucks.

But...it's in, just need to button it up and (hopefully) test drive tomorrow:
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