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  #21  
Old May 7th, 2015, 10:23 PM
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Attaboy. The lack of gasket is intriguing. Roadside Rob warned me to use a gasket and not sealant there because of the bearing preload, so don't know what to make of you not having either. My vote is for a gasket (or 10).

I'm digging the idea of a hi/lo switch for my EV. I wonder how hard it would be to retrofit an old case for one?
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  #22  
Old May 7th, 2015, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Attaboy. The lack of gasket is intriguing. Roadside Rob warned me to use a gasket and not sealant there because of the bearing preload, so don't know what to make of you not having either. My vote is for a gasket (or 10).

I'm digging the idea of a hi/lo switch for my EV. I wonder how hard it would be to retrofit an old case for one?
Well...if you go back and look at the shop manual page I posted, it actually calls for "Hylosil 2000" in between the carrier bracket and the case - NOT a gasket. So it's sort of hard to say. What is the part number for that gasket you have? I'm wondering if those are designed to go on the cover rather than the carrier.

I have all the high/low cable, shifter, and top bracket from the D2 if you want it. It's not a push button "switch", but may be a little more slick to use that.
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  #23  
Old May 7th, 2015, 11:52 PM
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I was just thinking about this more...the internal gear set on the D2 cases is totally different than the Defender gears (36-tooth gears versus 28 on Defender I believe; different input gear, etc). I wonder if the Defender/D1 cases require a gasket for preload, but maybe that changed on the later D2 cases?
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  #24  
Old May 7th, 2015, 11:56 PM
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FRC5413. I'm just amazed it didn't leak without some kind of sealant.
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  #25  
Old May 8th, 2015, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
FRC5413. I'm just amazed it didn't leak without some kind of sealant.
Looks like that is just for the pto cover:
FRC5413 LT230 PTO COVER GASKET | shop | www.lrseries.com

I keep going back and looking at it....there *could* possibly be the slightest layer of something on there actually. I'm wondering if it's actually a minute layer of whatever sealant they used from the factory. It almost would have to be...
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  #26  
Old May 8th, 2015, 12:26 AM
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On surface to surface they used to use an anaerobic sealant.. Much the same as Porsche used on their engine cases.. Personally I use a light smear of right stuff... It is not solid enough to not squish out where it's not wanted..remember some of the bolts go through into the oil cavity of the transfer box.. So make sure you use a thread sealer...and don't put too long a bolt into the 2 holes from the front side of the transfer box..(the two on the front in between the gear box and the transfer box) as if too long they bind on the internal gears..
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  #27  
Old May 8th, 2015, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
On surface to surface they used to use an anaerobic sealant.. Much the same as Porsche used on their engine cases.. Personally I use a light smear of right stuff... It is not solid enough to not squish out where it's not wanted..remember some of the bolts go through into the oil cavity of the transfer box.. So make sure you use a thread sealer...and don't put too long a bolt into the 2 holes from the front side of the transfer box..(the two on the front in between the gear box and the transfer box) as if too long they bind on the internal gears..
I'm leaning that way myself after some reading tonight...and with your endorsement I think that seals the deal (pun intended).

I did notice that the 2 bolt holes did go through and already made a mental note to seal them up so they don't leak (and kept the bolts in the same order I took them out).

For thread sealant, are we talking Threadlock (it looked like blue was on there), or I'm more tempted to just likewise smear the bolt threads with RightStuff (?).
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  #28  
Old October 27th, 2015, 10:43 PM
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The search function on here pretty much sucks and links to all the threads with a grillion posts.

I feel like I remember reading this being different with an 04 dii tcase. Can anybody confirm or deny this? I have an 04 case sitting in my garage and am anticipating needing it for an upcoming move away from flatlands and need to go to a 1.2 ratio. I want to try to swap it now before it gets cold and closer to the time of the move.
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  #29  
Old October 27th, 2015, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
The search function on here pretty much sucks and links to all the threads with a grillion posts.

I feel like I remember reading this being different with an 04 dii tcase. Can anybody confirm or deny this? I have an 04 case sitting in my garage and am anticipating needing it for an upcoming move away from flatlands and need to go to a 1.2 ratio. I want to try to swap it now before it gets cold and closer to the time of the move.
You just need to bypass the interlock solenoid on the '04 disco case, and then swap the flange. And you'll also need to swap out the high/low lever assembly as well. There's a write-up somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.
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  #30  
Old October 27th, 2015, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
You just need to bypass the interlock solenoid on the '04 disco case, and then swap the flange. And you'll also need to swap out the high/low lever assembly as well. There's a write-up somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.
Thanks. I was trying to find the writeup I think you're referring to but failed miserably. Even tried the Google machine with no luck.
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  #31  
Old October 27th, 2015, 11:03 PM
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Living on the west coast I cant imagine having a 1.2 in a 110. 1st is low enough as it is. I have an lt77s with 1.4 and couldn't be happier. And yes it is capable of 85mph some hills I get as low as 45 due to egts.
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  #32  
Old October 27th, 2015, 11:27 PM
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Living on the west coast I cant imagine having a 1.2 in a 110. 1st is low enough as it is. I have an lt77s with 1.4 and couldn't be happier. And yes it is capable of 85mph some hills I get as low as 45 due to egts.
Yes. 1.2 will work for my application on the west coast. I'm turning 255/85s with a 1.0 ratio now and it holds 70 on hills around birmingham so not really that flat. I'll prob go back to 7.50 for tire size. I just don't want to have to shift a lot for the hills.
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  #33  
Old October 28th, 2015, 07:07 AM
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If you happen to swap out the difflock lamp switch remember Jonesy's issue. Engage difflock, rotate assembly until the internal detents engage, insert the switch until the dash lamp comes on then lock it down. If not, you'll risk not actually having difflock although the lamp indicates it.
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  #34  
Old October 28th, 2015, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RovingRyan View Post
Living on the west coast I cant imagine having a 1.2 in a 110. 1st is low enough as it is. I have an lt77s with 1.4 and couldn't be happier. And yes it is capable of 85mph some hills I get as low as 45 due to egts.
Yeah here in Utah my 1.2 disappoints so moving on to the 1.4.
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  #35  
Old October 28th, 2015, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
The search function on here pretty much sucks and links to all the threads with a grillion posts.

I feel like I remember reading this being different with an 04 dii tcase.
Isn't the d2 case missing the speedo output?
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  #36  
Old October 28th, 2015, 09:59 AM
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Isn't the d2 case missing the speedo output?
Yes, you'll have to swap an earlier output housing to incorporate.
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  #37  
Old October 28th, 2015, 10:23 AM
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Am I the only one that just realized that the first page of this thread (which is mine, and admittedly I did not even realize it : ) details how to swap the rear/output stub over (to keep the speedo), and how to blank the lockout solenoid. There we have it!

The only other thing is swapping over the high/low housing & lever since the D2's have a cable actuated, and you'll want to keep the standard lever actuated high/low setup from the original tcase.

Matthew - that should really be all that you need to do, essentially the D2 cases from like 1999-2001, and 2003-2004 (or something like that...there was a year in the middle that they didn't have difflock, but then they brought it back in the later boxes) will work for this application. Once you get into it, it'll all make sense if you check out the pics on the first page and feel free to call/email me with any questions and I can talk/walk you through it. Really, it's not that bad it's just a long day of swapping - and it more of a pain in the arse getting that heavy bastige lifted up and in place than anything else (which reminds me, you'll want to pull the input gear underneath the round PTO cover when you go back to install...makes it much easier to get things up & in, then you can just pop the input gear back in place and put the cover back on).
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  #38  
Old October 28th, 2015, 10:38 AM
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You also probably need to drill and tap for the parking brake bracket.
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  #39  
Old October 28th, 2015, 10:44 AM
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You also probably need to drill and tap for the parking brake bracket.
So I got away without needing to do this...could it be that the earlier boxes already had the drilled mounts in it? Maybe the later boxes it was blanked out?

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tml#post634979
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  #40  
Old October 28th, 2015, 10:48 AM
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I doubt it. I used a D1 box and it did not have the mounts. Perhaps it depends what parking brake you have. A NAS probably has the same type as a D1.
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