what type axles to use under my 109 - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old January 22nd, 2014, 05:51 PM
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Manny Backman
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Thumbs up D1 diffs

I did the spring perch route on D1 diffs and there are pit falls that you run into.
1) front shocks spring and track rod all want to occupy the same place on the truck.
2)you need to lenthen the steeringrod with the damper in the correct place.
3)The D1 track rod has to be lengthend and the one side has to be converted to L/H thread so that the clanps for D1 adjustment can be eliminated. The clamps get to close to the spring and may cause the steering to jam on you.
4)The D1 track rod is at the back of the diff and the damper and the damper brackets have to be removed.
5) you have to source 1ton shackles for the front because to get track rod clearence over the spring.
6) the spring perch has to have a 1 inch spacer welded in for the track rod clearance and the longer shackels compesate for this.
7) the shock mount at the bottom of the spring has to be cut and modified this part is about $350.00 each so money if you mess up.
8) you have to make the diff pinion angle 12*(that is what my diff is at). This is a lot of work and this is just the front diff.
9) The D1 diffs are 4 inches wider than the series IIA 88 diffs I removed so they will protude about 1.5 inches on each side.
I think sourcing coil spring brackets and the DI/RRC cross member would be the easier way to go like Bill suggested and a lot less work. I had bought the parabolics for my 88 so I was kind of committed. There are still some issues like a lean of about 1 inch on the drivers side that needs to be sorted but basicly the convertion works and the brakes are awesome.
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  #22  
Old January 23rd, 2014, 07:15 AM
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Pete Ricci
1965 Series 109 V8 Automatic
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All the input has been insightful. definatley going with complete axle changes front and rear and 90% sure i will go coil suspension
My question is:
Which disc brake axles are preffered RRC or Disco?

I intend to make a decision early next week on the frame direction so if there is a preferance it would be good to know
thanks
pete
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  #23  
Old January 23rd, 2014, 07:40 AM
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Chris
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Either: all D1 axles are good. On the RRC make sure they are 24 spline which came in a few years before the D1, just don't recall when.
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  #24  
Old January 23rd, 2014, 08:16 AM
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Jeff B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Either: all D1 axles are good. On the RRC make sure they are 24 spline which came in a few years before the D1, just don't recall when.
Late '93 RR's started 24 spline but always pull an axle to be sure.
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  #25  
Old January 23rd, 2014, 08:30 AM
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Bill Adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWalker View Post
All the input has been insightful. definatley going with complete axle changes front and rear and 90% sure i will go coil suspension
My question is:
Which disc brake axles are preffered RRC or Disco?
I would suggest that you use a 24 spline RRC/D1 in front and Salisbury in the rear. They will come with stock 3.54 ring and pinion gears. I dunno what Stage Ones had, but that may be a concern. I guess you could always just swap what you have for diffs over to the spring axles.

Quote:
I intend to make a decision early next week on the frame direction so if there is a preferance it would be good to know
Only bloke making coil conversion Series Chassis is Designa Chassis, so there isn't a lot of choice. He does good work. You will want to work closely with Iain to be sure that you are getting what you want.
One tasty option would be P38 steering box mounting holes,
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  #26  
Old January 23rd, 2014, 08:40 AM
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J. Michael McCaig
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I just bought the ROAM disc brake kit this past fall for my Series and I plan to install it once the weather eases up a bit. I am very pleased with the looks of it and I like that it uses Rover calipers etc. ROAM also makes heavy duty axle shafts for the Series rears if you decide to keep your leaf springs. I would think that the heavy duty axle shafts coupled with a locker would be a nice set-up for the kind of wheeling you plan on doing. Another route for the rear would be a Series III Salisbury. The gears are interchangeble with the coil Salisbury so you could keep your 3.54 ratio.
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  #27  
Old January 23rd, 2014, 09:58 AM
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Pete Ricci
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Only bloke making coil conversion Series Chassis is Designa Chassis, so there isn't a lot of choice. He does good work. You will want to work closely with Iain to be sure that you are getting what you want.
One tasty option would be P38 steering box mounting holes,[/QUOTE]

Designa chassis is about $4k shipped, I sent Iain an email but didn't hear back so will call him today. Im working on a cost trade off between new frame vs LWB RRC conversion. I found a clean donner in NC off of craigs list but they are asking $1500.

I do Intend to add P38 PS
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  #28  
Old January 23rd, 2014, 10:15 AM
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Ash Heller
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I have a rear disc salisbury for sale that I'll give you a great deal on!
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  #29  
Old January 23rd, 2014, 10:21 AM
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Thomason, Max
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Disc brake sals available right now:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=51035

That would be quite awesome with a coiler chassis and the stage 1.
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  #30  
Old January 23rd, 2014, 10:41 AM
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Pete Ricci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ash View Post
I have a rear disc salisbury for sale that I'll give you a great deal on!
I noticed your add. Not sure how I would get to south Carolina or Virginia, you can PM me to discuss further
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  #31  
Old February 2nd, 2014, 11:12 AM
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Teriann Wakeman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWalker View Post
Anybody have an opinion on the torrel conversion? not sure about lumina discs & calipers on an LR

1. WAY cheaper than the alternatives

2. I installed mine under my Dormobile in 2007. The pads still have plenty of material left. Only failure so far is a fluid leak where one flex hose attaches to caliper (2013). Got a free warranty replacement on the hose.

3. The stopping ability is as good or slightly better than stock 109 drum brakes in forward direction. 109 drum brakes do not stop well in the reverse direction making nose up stops on a steep hill unsafe. The disc brakes stop equally well in the reverse direction making stops facing uphill or failed ascents a lot safer. The disc brakes work well when wet.



Bottom line they are dependable, Consumable parts are easy to get, in the forward direction they are about the same or slightly better than properly adjusted excellent condition 109 front drum brakes. They are safer than drum brakes going up hills, & in water crossings. You don't have to adjust them and if you get a hub seal leak the pads don't become oily.
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  #32  
Old February 28th, 2014, 12:59 PM
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Derek Borror
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The PO put RRC axles/disc brakes under my 109 designachassis frame. Seems to work alright.
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  #33  
Old February 28th, 2014, 01:13 PM
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Pete Ricci
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I am going a coil conversion route. Purchased a low mileage D1 roller and will lengthen chassis and relocate body mounts. The person overseeing the swap has completed multipal chassis conversion
When we have made enough progress I will post up some pictures, hoping to be back on the road by september
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  #34  
Old February 28th, 2014, 01:18 PM
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Bill Adams
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Quote:
hoping to be back on the road by september
Which year?
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #35  
Old February 28th, 2014, 01:38 PM
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Pete Ricci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
which year?
1998 d1
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  #36  
Old February 28th, 2014, 01:56 PM
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Pete Ricci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
No, he meant September of which year?

-Jeff
There I go being to serious. If it goes like my "simple" land crusier cummins conversion I can only hope to live long enough.
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