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  #21  
Old August 12th, 2011, 07:00 PM
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Jeff Payne
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I have a 2.25 diesel five main bearing in my 110 that I keep thinking of replacing. If I had a potential buyer I would think even harder... Just had the head rebuilt a little while ago and it's my DD. 148k on the clock.
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  #22  
Old August 12th, 2011, 07:40 PM
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Google roverdrive gear corp in canada. They make new overdrives that I hear are more robust than the fairey units
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  #23  
Old August 12th, 2011, 07:41 PM
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Teriann Wakeman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBinAlabama View Post
I'm mostly not a stupid driver...if that is what you meant
No, it is not you, it is just one of my pet peeves. Take a vehicle with a given mass traveling at a given velocity. It will take the same distance to stop using one set of brakes regardless of it having a 10 HP engine or a 1000 HP engine of the same vehicle weight. Yet everyone says "I'm going to put a bigger engine in it and therefore I need better brakes" . Drives me crazy. Because if you drive safely and within the speed limit it doesn't matter what engine is in it. My take is that if it is safe to drive 55 MPH with a 2.25L it is just as safe to drive 55 MPH with a 427 overhead cam. If it is unsafe with the big engine it is unsafe with the little boat anchor and you should have upgraded the brakes right away instead of waiting for an engine conversion to remind you that the brakes are unsafe.



That said, I will be adding disc brakes at the front......I was saving that question for later to tell the truth
It's an 88" and I may wait until we are finished but my brother said he will stick with the drums on his.

When the time comes I have a web page that you might find useful choosing a kit.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/discBrake.htm

I like SB fords, and I do have some parts on hand from my backdraft cobra.
I had not considered that the ford may be lighter than the 2.25

we basically have no hills in Alabama compared to the rest of north america

@kevkon, I have nothing against the 2.25 but one engine is in pretty darn bad shape and parts will likely be more than a used replacement

@anti.....WHAT?, I had not considered an overdrive, will check prices!

Everyone, what will the deduct in finished value be for having a non rover engine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBinAlabama View Post
Everyone, what will the deduct in finished value be for having a non rover engine?
A whole lot depends upon how well the conversion is engineered and executed and who is looking at it for possible purchase. Land Rovers are the tinker toys of the car world and many are modified in different ways. There is a large group of people who will pay a premium for bone stock and a large group that will pay a premium for a well engineered and executed conversion. Timm Cooper is a well known fabricator who makes high quality conversions. I've seen some of his conversions sell for at least twice what a bone stock vehicle would go for. Good V8 conversions come with a much stronger drive train, well thought out gearing and power steering (gets the stock steering box out of the way). And I've seen some ratty poorly thought out conversions you almost could not give away.

A 200tdi conversion if well done would probably easily sell for more than a bone stock vehicle and a 2.5L conversion will usually make the truck easier to quickly sell. Most people can not easily tell a 2.25 from a 2.5 at a glance.

Bottom line is "It depends" upon a lot of stuff and a well done conversion does not mean a lower price to anyone who would consider purchasing a vehicle with a conversion.

------ Follow up post added August 12th, 2011 04:46 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Albersj51 View Post
Google roverdrive gear corp in canada. They make new overdrives that I hear are more robust than the fairey units
Also look at the reproduction Santana units manufactured in the Netherlands by Paul Heystee

http://www.heystee-automotive.com

I know people who are putting them behind Escalade V8s in Land Rovers and are treating them hard. The Santana overdrive stands up to a V8 well (at least according to Tim Cooper and I've seen what he does to his).

While on the site, check out Paul's disc brake conversion kit. I think it is currently the best on the market.
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1960 Land Rover Dormobile, The go anywhere class B RV
1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #24  
Old August 12th, 2011, 07:56 PM
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@Teriann: A heavier motor, especially over the front axle will increase stopping distance, that's simple physics. Just like a 3500lb Rover with stock brakes will stop faster than the same truck loaded to 4500lbs. So swapping in a 427 over a 2.25l will indeed affect braking.
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  #25  
Old August 12th, 2011, 09:16 PM
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Also consider the diesel engine options. Diesels have little or no compression braking so there is an additional stress put upon the wheel brakes.

As far as how any of the non standard engine swaps will effect the value of a Series truck, I think that largely has to do with how well it is thought out and executed. Take a look at the SIIA 109 with the Cummins 4bt for sale on this forum as an example of a really well executed swap.
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  #26  
Old August 12th, 2011, 11:39 PM
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Teriann Wakeman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
@Teriann: A heavier motor, especially over the front axle will increase stopping distance, that's simple physics. Just like a 3500lb Rover with stock brakes will stop faster than the same truck loaded to 4500lbs. So swapping in a 427 over a 2.25l will indeed affect braking.
Except I have not been talking heavier motor in any of my suggested offerings. I think all were within plus 100 lbs to minus 50 lbs. The 427 was just an example of a powerful engine not a suggestion for a swap. But Yes, any increase in mass or increase in velocity will require a longer stopping distance if braking remains constant.

It is just that it bugs me when people assume the ability to reach a given velocity quicker means you need more stopping power even if mass and crusing velocity remain the same.
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1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #27  
Old August 13th, 2011, 12:57 AM
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Mike Hammond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
Also consider the diesel engine options. Diesels have little or no compression braking so there is an additional stress put upon the wheel brakes.
Eh????
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #28  
Old August 13th, 2011, 09:22 AM
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kevin
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Unlike gas engines which use a throttle, diesels don't get vacuum braking when letting off the accelerator. Turbos can provide a little, but it is not the amount you get in a 4 stroke gas engine. It's the reason large trucks are often fitted with a Jake Brake.

TeriAnn, I understand what you are saying but I think that if one is going to up the performance of acceleration then it would be wise to do the same with braking. No, you don't have to, nor do you have to improve the handling (suspension). It would just be prudent.
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  #29  
Old August 13th, 2011, 01:58 PM
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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What about the 20:1 + compression ratio?
My 200tdi has more engine breaking than the V8 petrol ever had.
You need a vacuum pump for the power assisted brakes.
Exhauster pumps assist the wheel brakes as I understand it.
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Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
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  #30  
Old August 13th, 2011, 03:35 PM
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking

And more to your point;http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/engine/engbrake.html

It's all about vacuum
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  #31  
Old August 13th, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
Well I never
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  #32  
Old August 14th, 2011, 11:22 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
I saw a series III maintain 70mph with no overdrive for about 6 miles, shortly afterwards it sat in a parking lot spewing coolant....
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Every once in a while someone does it, but they don't seem to be the same person afterwards.
My truck, no overdrive, and no spewing coolant when I stopped. Of course, I will admit this is generally only possible in the summer when the top is off - less drag.
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  #33  
Old August 15th, 2011, 12:36 AM
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Teriann Wakeman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
My truck, no overdrive, and no spewing coolant when I stopped. Of course, I will admit this is generally only possible in the summer when the top is off - less drag.
Stock gearing & 32 inch dia tyres:

3686 RPM @ 65 MPH
3969 RPM @ 70 MPH

The 2.25L petrol is happy cruising in the 3200 - 3400 RPM range for long distance highway driving.
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  #34  
Old August 15th, 2011, 08:46 AM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
My truck, no overdrive, and no spewing coolant when I stopped. Of course, I will admit this is generally only possible in the summer when the top is off - less drag.
Yeah, I had the tilt & doors off when I drove from Cleveland to Madison.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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62 88 Regular
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95 DI 5-speed
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  #35  
Old August 23rd, 2011, 10:10 PM
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Thanks for all the pointers and tips folks!

I think we are leaning toward the 200tdi for ours and the 2.25 petrol for my brothers.
The 2.25 will be headed to the machine shop in the next couple of weeks.

Any suggestions on Springs and shocks?

I'm trying to get it all ready so that when the chassis & Bulkhead comes back from galvanizing we can make it a roller quickly to keep up the little guys interest
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  #36  
Old August 24th, 2011, 06:34 AM
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Bill Adams
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Good luck with finding that 200Tdi.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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All my troubles are Rover
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  #37  
Old August 24th, 2011, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Good luck with finding that 200Tdi.
?. Not exactly difficult.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #38  
Old August 24th, 2011, 08:06 AM
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Bill Adams
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?. Not exactly difficult.
Where to shop?
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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  #39  
Old August 24th, 2011, 08:34 AM
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Tom Rowe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBinAlabama View Post
Any suggestions on Springs and shocks?
People seem to be fond of the parabolics as they offer a bit more travel, but I've always just used stock springs, though usually heavier duty than stock as I often seem to be hauling heavy loads.
For shocks I've used Rancho (I forget the part numbers), OEM and some from Nisonger that aren't available any more. I had them left over from when I used to be a Nisonger dealer.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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62 88 Regular
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  #40  
Old August 24th, 2011, 10:02 AM
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You can get them...Rover Resource, Land Rover Imports, ebay, etc. The price tag is a different story.


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Where to shop?
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