Series III - Won't shift in to any gears - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 07:39 PM
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Get a used one. Front diffs are usually very low wear in a series truck and they are the same front to back. Otherwise, get a trutrac and maybe some heavy duty axles or otherwise improve the axle. A stock diff I don't think you can get parts for and if you do it will be more than something better.
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  #62  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeriesIII View Post
I plan on pulling the diff. Does anyone know a shop in Denver that could do the repairs to the innards (pinion set, spider, etc...)?
First, pull the diff and see if you can see what's wrong with it. My money is on sheared crown gear bolts.
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  #63  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 08:23 PM
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I bet you can get good used unit by asking around.
After that Pangolin and GBR would be great go to place.
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  #64  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 10:23 PM
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Find out what is wrong. As stated, a broken Series diff is not worth replacing or repairing.
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  #65  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 11:51 PM
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PM me and I will give you some advice. I actually have a complete rebuild kit and I know a good shop in Denver. However, it may be more cost effective to purchase a used one. Anyway, let's visit.
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  #66  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 05:52 PM
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Took out the rear diff today and it looks perfect. Can't even find a ding or scratch. Here is a video. If anyone would like me to take a pic or video of the diff from a different angle, let me know and I will post it to continue troubleshooting this issue.

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  #67  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 10:16 PM
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Yup. It looks fine. I would have lost money on that bet.

Now that the axles are out can you remove the driveshaft from the park brake and see if it drives okay in front wheel drive.
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  #68  
Old August 24th, 2016, 09:02 AM
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Hi Greg,
I did as you suggested in the confines of my garage. So was able to put it in 4 wheel high and successfully drive it forward and backwards (3 ft each direction).
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  #69  
Old August 25th, 2016, 12:03 AM
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Is three feet each way enough to determine it isn't locking up from the front end?

If so, you've ruled out that. I'd want to take it farther than three feet. Can't you get down the driveway? Is it licenced for the road so you can go a few hundred feet or more?

Now make a really thorough inspection of the driveshaft and universal joints to ensure they aren't binding and causing all this grief.
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  #70  
Old August 25th, 2016, 03:37 PM
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Greg,
Thanks for pushing me to drive it further. I put the front end on jack stands and put the Series in 4 wheel high...started the engine and the front wheels turned fine both in first gear and reverse. On the third try I got a ....CLUNK...it seized up and wouldn't turn the front wheels in reverse. I went underneath and took a video. Check it out....

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  #71  
Old August 25th, 2016, 08:57 PM
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It's possible that driveshaft could cause the system to seize, especially with that slip yoke so sloppy (the part inside the rubber boot).
Because the universal joints are a normal wear item and need greasing at intervals, get used to checking them, maybe give them a shake and wiggle every couple thousand miles. You should have noticed this some time ago.
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  #72  
Old August 25th, 2016, 11:49 PM
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Now that you know you have to take off the front drive shaft don't forget to try to drive it with no drive shafts and see if it works OK.
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  #73  
Old August 26th, 2016, 02:28 PM
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That drive shaft is definitely bad but I'm not sure it's bad enough to lock up the whole drive train.
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  #74  
Old September 4th, 2016, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ignotus View Post
now that you know you have to take off the front drive shaft don't forget to try to drive it with no drive shafts and see if it works ok.
exactly!

------ Follow up post added September 4th, 2016 09:40 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by slorocco View Post
That drive shaft is definitely bad but I'm not sure it's bad enough to lock up the whole drive train.
Agreed. That shaft needs work for sure but would not in itself cause the problem. While the shaft is off you can spin the front diff to see if there are any problems there.

I still think the problem is inside the gearbox. When the problem first arose what was the scenario? Did you reverse out on to the road then in to first gear? Was the problem immediate.How far did you get before it jammed?
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  #75  
Old September 5th, 2016, 12:15 PM
SeriesIII
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Hi Nick,
I drove the the vehicle in first, then second. Got about a 1/4 mile from my house and needed to do a y-turn. When I put the truck in reverse the vehicle would not move in reverse. I tried several times with no success. Turned off the vehicle, put it in neutral and got out. I was able to push it in reverse back to my house.
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  #76  
Old September 5th, 2016, 02:17 PM
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Well That to me again implies it is the box not the axles or diffs. In any case the transmission brake has been discounted,you have been through the rear axle and I guess by now you have checked the front diff turns OK in both directions?
So now why not drain the gearbox oils and see what comes out.Do the main box and the transfer box separately and look for any big lumps in the main box oil.
It is years since I have owned a Series and or stripped down a Series box but I have distant memories of different problems and this one does ring a bell as did the noise in video 1.
I think many a Series owner will have broken or stripped teeth on the revers idler gear and or Layshaft but another problem I remember is there is a Bronze bush inside the reverse idler gear which can seize up on the idler shaft then when the driver yanks it out of reverse the gear moves off the bush now when you try to re engage reverse you cant as the bush hits the casing before the teeth can mesh. Another one I remember is the box locking up in forward gears but It would still reverse.
Cant remember if it was the clamp bolt on the reverse yoke came loose or if we actually broke the yoke but it was stuck in reverse even though the selector rods lined up ok in Neutral and of course as soon as you selected a forward gear the box locks solid.
Keep trying and keep us in the loop!
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  #77  
Old September 12th, 2016, 11:28 AM
SeriesIII
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I took off the front prop shaft yesterday and the front diff turns smoothly both directions.

With both props off I started the engine and it seized up the second time I put it in reverse. Now the gear shift lever is stuck in reverse too. In the past I was always able to shift the lever in and out of all gears.

I drained the gearbox and nothing but three small metal shavings came out. Each was a spiral the thickness of sewing thread and maybe an 1/8 inch long.

The transfer drain plug is super tight. Tried using a 1/2 inch spanner wrench put in sideways and couldn't get it off. Will try again soon.
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  #78  
Old September 12th, 2016, 11:32 AM
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Well that answers it - its in the gearbox. Could have gotten to this point much quicker I think. Too many cooks in the kitchen.

------ Follow up post added September 12th, 2016 12:38 PM ------

This could be helpful

Land Rover Series III stuck in gear
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  #79  
Old September 12th, 2016, 12:17 PM
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There you go! Pretty much confirms highest possibility is reverse gear has slid off its bush.
Dont worry about the transfer box. Most likely nothing wrong with that. If you want to make absolutely sure before removing the gearbox take the top off the main box. You will need to remove the floors and the tunnel to do so but these will have to come off to take out the gearbox anyway.
Before you take off the top it is best to remove the Detent springs and balls so they dont ping off in all directions.
You can remove the selector shafts and yokes then you will be able to see the reverse idler gear. I seem to remember forcing the bush back into the gear one time with a bar just as a get home but once it has happened it will happen again so permanent fix is box out new shaft and idler. But of course while it is out you might as well rebuild it completely!

------ Follow up post added September 12th, 2016 01:25 PM ------

Just had a look at that link That Transient mechanic posted.
Also valid possibilities but you still need to get the floor and tunnel out the way to check although the mainshaft lock nut issue you can see through the inspection cover on top of transfer box so you could whip that off first to make sure..
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  #80  
Old October 2nd, 2016, 10:33 AM
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Just wanted to share an update.

Turns out my issue was a 59 cent lock washer.

Pulled the inspection plate on the transfer case above the PTO mount and checked to see if the rear main shaft nut was tight.

It had loosened and had backed off jamming against the bearing housing on the PTO cover. So when I attempted to drive in reverse, the vehicle abruptly stopped.

Took 10 minutes to replace the washer and I am back on the road.
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