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  #21  
Old July 29th, 2016, 11:27 AM
SeriesIII
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1. Regarding the extra return spring ... These are not at the local auto parts stores, correct? I need to get these specifically for my vehicle.
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  #22  
Old July 29th, 2016, 12:03 PM
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From looking at the videos, I'd say your parking brake backing plate is loose. Probably the nuts are in the drum locking up the brake. Pull off the drum and look. You can get it off without removing the driveshaft.
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  #23  
Old July 29th, 2016, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Just leave the drums of to rule out the rear brakes.
Great idea for troubleshooting as long as no one steps on the brake petal.
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  #24  
Old July 29th, 2016, 01:08 PM
SeriesIII
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Robert,
Do you recommend an extra return spring on both the top and bottom? I see looking online that there are two.
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  #25  
Old July 29th, 2016, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Great idea for troubleshooting as long as no one steps on the brake petal.
On jackstands, with the wheels off as per the previous videos.
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  #26  
Old July 29th, 2016, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeriesIII View Post
Robert,
Do you recommend an extra return spring on both the top and bottom? I see looking online that there are two.
What is on there now? There should be a spring on the bottom connecting the two shoes and one on the top attached to a single shoe and a peg on the backplate. It is important they are installed correctly.
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  #27  
Old July 29th, 2016, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignotus View Post
From looking at the videos, I'd say your parking brake backing plate is loose. Probably the nuts are in the drum locking up the brake. Pull off the drum and look. You can get it off without removing the driveshaft.
Definitely. That, there is you problem. The whole parking brake is ready to fall off.
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  #28  
Old July 29th, 2016, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeriesIII View Post
Robert,
Do you recommend an extra return spring on both the top and bottom? I see looking online that there are two.
You will need to add a spring at the top of the trailing shoe if there isn't one added already to keep the trailing shoe from pulling out and stopping the brake drum rotation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Definitely. That, there is you problem. The whole parking brake is ready to fall off.
You guys may have just found the cause.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #29  
Old July 29th, 2016, 03:34 PM
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Questions:
1. Most of the nuts (looks like 6 nuts) on the transmission drum look stripped. If I grind some of the nuts off, are the bolts easy replaced? Just want to make sure they aren't permanently attached or threaded into anything. Ideally I just punch them out if I grind the nut off.
2. To remove the transmission drum.... I do need to remove the front prop, correct?
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  #30  
Old July 29th, 2016, 03:38 PM
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Yes, there are bolts with the nuts.

The propshaft can stay attached.
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  #31  
Old July 29th, 2016, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeriesIII View Post
Questions:
1. Most of the nuts (looks like 6 nuts) on the transmission drum look stripped. If I grind some of the nuts off, are the bolts easy replaced?
~~~ yes ~~~
Just want to make sure they aren't permanently attached or threaded into anything. Ideally I just punch them out if I grind the nut off.
~~~ Even stripped nuts should come off, but I think your mechanical vocabulary is so bad you mean studs, not nuts ~~~

2. To remove the transmission drum.... I do need to remove the front prop, correct?
~~~ You do not~~~~
Answers between the ~~~
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #32  
Old July 29th, 2016, 03:40 PM
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The bolts holding the drum on are just that, bolts. they are held inplace by a metal ring which prevents the bolt head from turning. If the bolt is turning you have to pull on the nut to snug the head up against the ring. If you do have to cut off the nuts the bolts are replaceable but time consuming. Do you have a manual? it would help.
You do not have to pull the front prop shaft. You will need to pull the rear one if you have to replace the bolts.
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  #33  
Old July 29th, 2016, 03:42 PM
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Make sure you back off the brake adjuster or the drum may not come off.
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  #34  
Old July 29th, 2016, 03:44 PM
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Time to get manuals.

Series 1 2 and 3 workshop and parts catalogue | Landroverweb.com
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  #35  
Old August 7th, 2016, 02:12 PM
SeriesIII
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I took off the transmission drum and all looks good. I think the earlier videos made the transmission brake look very loose, but I believe that was the camera adjusting/stabilizing the video.

I have two new videos taken this morning...
Video 1. The transmission drum is off and when I turn the prop shaft it still locks/seizes up.
Video 2. The right rear brake drum is off and the transmission drum is off. Shows it still seizes up.

Is the next step to pull the axles? If you need any more pics or videos to troubleshoot, please let me know.

Thanks!!
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  #36  
Old August 7th, 2016, 03:07 PM
SeriesIII
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I pulled off the left brake drum. So now with the two rear brake drums removed and the transmission drum pulled off, I cant get the prop shaft to lock-up or seize up. So is it likely what Robert thought...adding an additional return spring?
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  #37  
Old August 7th, 2016, 06:20 PM
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It is hard to tell where the binding is occuring. Usually I can tell by feel when turning the propshaft/axle approximately where the binding is. From the way it is binding though, it isn't a brake issue. It is to sharp a stop. My best guess, based on the fact that the stopping point is intermittent and sharp, is that you lost a bolt head in the diff and that it is catching on the ring gear.
Disconnect the propshaft at the rear diff, and see if still locks up turning the half shafts. If it does, the problem is in your diff. I think your half-shafts are fine. If it locks up, then remove the half shafts, diff oil and chunk and see what it looks like.
If the locking doesn't occur with the driveshaft disconnected, the problem is in the gearboxes, but I can't think of a situation in there that would cause this intermittent problem.
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  #38  
Old August 7th, 2016, 07:11 PM
SeriesIII
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Hi Rob,
I haven't been able get it to bind up since removing both rear drums and the transmission drum.

Still think I should look at the Diff?

Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by RFD110 View Post
It is hard to tell where the binding is occuring. Usually I can tell by feel when turning the propshaft/axle approximately where the binding is. From the way it is binding though, it isn't a brake issue. It is to sharp a stop. My best guess, based on the fact that the stopping point is intermittent and sharp, is that you lost a bolt head in the diff and that it is catching on the ring gear.
Disconnect the propshaft at the rear diff, and see if still locks up turning the half shafts. If it does, the problem is in your diff. I think your half-shafts are fine. If it locks up, then remove the half shafts, diff oil and chunk and see what it looks like.
If the locking doesn't occur with the driveshaft disconnected, the problem is in the gearboxes, but I can't think of a situation in there that would cause this intermittent problem.
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  #39  
Old August 7th, 2016, 09:16 PM
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Sometimes it is hard to tell from the video, but I have never seen a brake lock up that sharply as the problem appears in your video. Brakes usually cause a smooth stop as the pressure increases, where your problem appears to be metal to metal and a very abrupt stop. Also, didn't the problem occur with both drums off separately? I'd seriously doubt, that the problem would happen on both sides at the same time. The other strange thing is the lack of consistency. I have seen this with brakes, but I keep thinking back to when I lost bolts on my SerIII diff. I didn't bind like yours, but I was going faster, and just ran the bolt head through the ring and pinion, but could see this as a possibility
With both drums off, is the driveshaft turning? It may be that the spider gears are only turning now, and not the ring/pinion which is why it isn't locking up. The ring/pinion will only be turning if the driveshaft is.
Maybe the next step is just to drain the diff and look for metal. It probably wouldn't hurt to change it if you never have.
As far as the pads. There is a spring from a post on the backing plate to the front pad (top), and another spring that goes between the two pads (bottom). You can pull the trailing shoe loose like that. It looks normal.
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  #40  
Old August 7th, 2016, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeriesIII View Post
Hi Rob, I haven't been able get it to bind up since removing both rear drums and the transmission drum. Still think I should look at the Diff? Thanks
100% yes. I've felt from the beginning of this that you have to look at each part of the drive system piece by piece. To confirm its good or reveal the bad.
Time to pull the shafts and drain the diffs looking for pieces of metal. Then remove the diff.
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