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  #1  
Old April 20th, 2014, 12:42 AM
cbfritz_03
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Series III Replacement Parts

Does anyone know of where I can purchase replacement nuts and bolts, window and door gaskets and things like that. I started looking at it today and the list is growing. Some of the bolts I'm sure I could salvage but others no. The interior door panels are not so hot and I'm wondering if anyone has advice on rehabbing them or just replacing them entirely. All of the lenses are good. Also, I'm seeing lots of rivets. Is there a rivet tool you recommend and any advice on the disassembly?
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  #2  
Old April 20th, 2014, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfritz_03 View Post
Does anyone know of where I can purchase replacement nuts and bolts, window and door gaskets and things like that. I started looking at it today and the list is growing. Some of the bolts I'm sure I could salvage but others no. The interior door panels are not so hot and I'm wondering if anyone has advice on rehabbing them or just replacing them entirely. All of the lenses are good. Also, I'm seeing lots of rivets. Is there a rivet tool you recommend and any advice on the disassembly?
I use either Rovers North or Rovafarm for all of my parts.

They will have door seals, nuts and bolts kits, etc.....

I have found that the door cards are not that repairable. If they are bad I would just snatch them off and throw them away. I like the look of all metal doors anyway. If the vinyl is good and the paper card itself is bad some people have rehabbed them with another type of backing.

I have a rivet tool that came from harbor freight, it was cheap and works well. It's the kind that looks like a pair of garden loppers, not the kind you have to squeeze like scissors.......they give you much more leverage. You can also get some that will run off your compressor (assuming it's big enough).
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  #3  
Old April 20th, 2014, 08:59 AM
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Bill Adams
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If you want the Atlas fasteners, then you can go to britishfasteners.com for the UNF bolts and nuts. If that level of authenticity is not that important, the your next best friend is macmaster.com. They only sell bulk quantities tho. They also have the rivets you need.
The interior parts you are talking about are only available reproduction. The quality varies, but Exmoor trim makes some very nice ones.
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  #4  
Old April 20th, 2014, 09:35 AM
The Dro
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Here are the part numbers for the seals:

RH Door Seals

Bottom Front of Door-395598
Bottom Rear of Door-395670
Bottom of Door or Sill-MRC5740
Top Front of Front Door Window-395672
Roof Front Door Window-395673
Rear of Front Door Window-395674
Door Sealing Strip-330163

LH Door Seals


Bottom Front of Door-395599
Bottom Rear of Door-395671
Bottom of Door or Sill-MRC5741
Top Front of Front Door Window-395672
Roof Front Door Window-395673
Rear of Front Door Window-395674
Door Sealing Strip-330163

Part numbers for the door bottoms:

Door Bottom RH-395529
Door Bottom LH-395530

As for the nuts and bolts... I went to Fastenal.

Contact Justin @ Lucky8 Justin@lucky8llc.com (716) 898-8153
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  #5  
Old April 20th, 2014, 12:37 PM
cbfritz_03
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Originally Posted by Contractor View Post
I use either Rovers North or Rovafarm for all of my parts.

They will have door seals, nuts and bolts kits, etc.....

I have found that the door cards are not that repairable. If they are bad I would just snatch them off and throw them away. I like the look of all metal doors anyway. If the vinyl is good and the paper card itself is bad some people have rehabbed them with another type of backing.

I have a rivet tool that came from harbor freight, it was cheap and works well. It's the kind that looks like a pair of garden loppers, not the kind you have to squeeze like scissors.......they give you much more leverage. You can also get some that will run off your compressor (assuming it's big enough).
So with removing the rivets.. is heat or drilling the way to go? I'd rather go pneumatic if possible. I'm a small fry so leverage will be an issue, plus this is a project my son will be involved in so...The vinyl on the cards is fine, the backing is the issue. I know that's way on down the line of stuff to do but..proactive and thinking ahead you know. Thank you so much for your help
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  #6  
Old April 20th, 2014, 12:48 PM
cbfritz_03
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
If you want the Atlas fasteners, then you can go to britishfasteners.com for the UNF bolts and nuts. If that level of authenticity is not that important, the your next best friend is macmaster.com. They only sell bulk quantities tho. They also have the rivets you need.
The interior parts you are talking about are only available reproduction. The quality varies, but Exmoor trim makes some very nice ones.
What is the bonus of with britishfastners.com? I am interested in authenticity but not at the expense of quality. Thank you for your advice. I'll look into the sources you recommend. Oh and I have been looking at your rehab of the IIA (and taking notes) and I can see this ain't your first rodeo. Good job sir

------ Follow up post added April 20th, 2014 11:55 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dro View Post
Here are the part numbers for the seals:

RH Door Seals

Bottom Front of Door-395598
Bottom Rear of Door-395670
Bottom of Door or Sill-MRC5740
Top Front of Front Door Window-395672
Roof Front Door Window-395673
Rear of Front Door Window-395674
Door Sealing Strip-330163

LH Door Seals


Bottom Front of Door-395599
Bottom Rear of Door-395671
Bottom of Door or Sill-MRC5741
Top Front of Front Door Window-395672
Roof Front Door Window-395673
Rear of Front Door Window-395674
Door Sealing Strip-330163

Part numbers for the door bottoms:

Door Bottom RH-395529
Door Bottom LH-395530

As for the nuts and bolts... I went to Fastenal.

Contact Justin @ Lucky8 Justin@lucky8llc.com (716) 898-8153
Thank you Dro! Part numbers are this girls best friend right now. I'm going to get rolling on this series starting next week... I'm excited.
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  #7  
Old April 20th, 2014, 12:56 PM
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Bill Adams
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Remove rivets with a wood chisel. Keep it sharp. Try not to dig into the surrounding metal. Get the chisel just under the edge and WHACK! Rivet gone. You may need to use a small punch to knock the rivet body out of the hole after the beheading.
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  #8  
Old April 20th, 2014, 01:15 PM
cbfritz_03
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Remove rivets with a wood chisel. Keep it sharp. Try not to dig into the surrounding metal. Get the chisel just under the edge and WHACK! Rivet gone. You may need to use a small punch to knock the rivet body out of the hole after the beheading.
Got it. Yes damaging the surrounding metal was the concern I had. Ooh so many questions I have. Thanks..
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  #9  
Old April 20th, 2014, 02:20 PM
Greg S
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Nuts and bolts? Your SAE 1/4" fine thread are about the same size and readily available but certainly aren't original. Sure made things easy on my 2A. I bought several lengths by the box, half inch, three quarters and one inch. I also used self locking nylock nuts wherever I could. Makes the job way easier IMHO.

Rivet removal? Damn! You sure can make a mess with a chisel. The surrounding ally is softer than the rivet body so when you hit the rivet you just tear the surrounding material with the rivet body, at least that's been my experience. I suggest a drill and only a drill with a bit a hair smaller than the body of the rivet, then a pin punch to knock the remainder out of the hole. Find the rivet body size and go to a quality tool supplier and check on drill sizes. You will likely end up with a letter or number size drill rather than a fractional size.
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  #10  
Old April 20th, 2014, 04:00 PM
cbfritz_03
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Originally Posted by Greg S View Post
Nuts and bolts? Your SAE 1/4" fine thread are about the same size and readily available but certainly aren't original. Sure made things easy on my 2A. I bought several lengths by the box, half inch, three quarters and one inch. I also used self locking nylock nuts wherever I could. Makes the job way easier IMHO.

Rivet removal? Damn! You sure can make a mess with a chisel. The surrounding ally is softer than the rivet body so when you hit the rivet you just tear the surrounding material with the rivet body, at least that's been my experience. I suggest a drill and only a drill with a bit a hair smaller than the body of the rivet, then a pin punch to knock the remainder out of the hole. Find the rivet body size and go to a quality tool supplier and check on drill sizes. You will likely end up with a letter or number size drill rather than a fractional size.
That's my concern...soft metal. Admittedly, I've done plenty of unfortunate accidental gouging on wood with a chisel. Thanks a lot for the info Greg.
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  #11  
Old April 20th, 2014, 06:08 PM
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Hi Carmen,

Welcome!

There are 2 basic types of rivets on the Series Rovers, one is a pop rivet and can be identified by a small hole in the center, thse can be drilled out. The other style is a solid rivet and requires either the chisel or drill method of removal. They both install differently; pop rivets use a rivet tool which just squeezes the rivet into polace until the mandril breaks off. The solid rivets are more difficult to install needing a domed or flat(depending on style) tool to push on the head and a backing bar to squeeze the rivet while some type of hammering is done. I suggest a youtube search on these.

There are plenty of parts suppliers both here and abroad. I favor Rovah Farm for lower prices and quick delivery. Rovers North has highest prices and quick delivery, and a great online parts illustration but sadly they have changed all the part numbers to thier own.
There is Rovers Down South, Lucky8, Rocky Mountain, Pangolin4x4.

In the UK there are many more, usually more parts availability and cheaper prices but longer waiting time. I have found that even with shipping it is cheaper for most things than buying here. Ya just have to wait.....
Of course goooooooooogle is your friend but some I have used over there are Craddocks, Dingocroft, LRseries, P A Blanchard. I have used wrecking yards(breakers over there) such as CWS.

There are also more forums around, There is probably a Series 3 forum in the UK for advice.

I replaced my door cards with ones from Iron Goat in Canada.

gene
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  #12  
Old April 20th, 2014, 06:49 PM
The Dro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfritz_03 View Post
Thank you Dro! Part numbers are this girls best friend right now. I'm going to get rolling on this series starting next week... I'm excited.
No problem.

I forgot to mention... I drilled out all the rivet caps off the truck and use a punch tool to remove the rest.

It took me less than an hour to remove all the rivets off the 109 galvy cappings.

Let me know if you need any other part number.

Pedro
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  #13  
Old April 20th, 2014, 07:25 PM
cbfritz_03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignotus View Post
Hi Carmen,

Welcome!

There are 2 basic types of rivets on the Series Rovers, one is a pop rivet and can be identified by a small hole in the center, thse can be drilled out. The other style is a solid rivet and requires either the chisel or drill method of removal. They both install differently; pop rivets use a rivet tool which just squeezes the rivet into polace until the mandril breaks off. The solid rivets are more difficult to install needing a domed or flat(depending on style) tool to push on the head and a backing bar to squeeze the rivet while some type of hammering is done. I suggest a youtube search on these.

There are plenty of parts suppliers both here and abroad. I favor Rovah Farm for lower prices and quick delivery. Rovers North has highest prices and quick delivery, and a great online parts illustration but sadly they have changed all the part numbers to thier own.
There is Rovers Down South, Lucky8, Rocky Mountain, Pangolin4x4.

In the UK there are many more, usually more parts availability and cheaper prices but longer waiting time. I have found that even with shipping it is cheaper for most things than buying here. Ya just have to wait.....
Of course goooooooooogle is your friend but some I have used over there are Craddocks, Dingocroft, LRseries, P A Blanchard. I have used wrecking yards(breakers over there) such as CWS.

There are also more forums around, There is probably a Series 3 forum in the UK for advice.

I replaced my door cards with ones from Iron Goat in Canada.

gene
Hey Gene and thank you. Yes I noticed the 2 different types and uh-huh...youtube, google, wikipedia, etcetc and of course this forum! Feel like I'm taking courses in history and anatomy. I'm enjoying every minute... but I'm weird that way

------ Follow up post added April 20th, 2014 06:32 PM ------

Will do Mr. Dro and thanks
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