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  #1  
Old May 16th, 2012, 11:53 AM
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Jason
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Series Exhaust

Looking at exhaust options; anyone used the stainless set up from RN?

Are there any other options out there worth looking at beyond standard stock?

I'm not sure it's worth it to pay $600 for stainless. Was thinking of buying the standard replacement parts and maybe have them dipped; any foreseeable issues with galvenizing them? Only thing I can think of is the need for a smooth finish for connecting up to the exhaust. Anyone done this?

TIA,

Jason
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  #2  
Old May 16th, 2012, 12:38 PM
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I was thinking buying from paddock in the U.K. With the current exchange rate the stainless system for a swb costs $215. even if they charge yoy $100 for shipping you are still coming out way ahead of RN high mark up.
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  #3  
Old May 16th, 2012, 01:22 PM
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I don't recommend bothering with the stainless one. I splurged on an all stainless one from the UK and after one Virignia winter I defy you to identify it as stainless - it looks like a rusty old exhaust
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  #4  
Old May 16th, 2012, 02:56 PM
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William Skidmore
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That had to be some seriously shitty stainless steel. The old man has had stainless of the 90 for years now up in jersey here and still looking good.
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  #5  
Old May 16th, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Don't get this one: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LR1001LHD
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  #6  
Old May 21st, 2012, 12:02 PM
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I have the NRP stainless exhaust from Rovers North. 304 stainless pipes with a Magnaflow stainless muffler. It's just not worth the money. There are some basic design issues with the system, but nobody seems interested in fixing them:
- Talking directly to the manufacturer, they designed the system around an old beater 88" with shot engine & trans mounts. This is probably why it needs significant adjustments to keep it from hitting the chassis.
- The NRP system also does away with the 'ball & socket' connection at the downstream end of the front pipe. They use a slip-on connection, which affords no real adjustability, making it even more difficult to line everything up.
- The mounts don't line up with the chassis mounts either.
- When they say "comes complete with stainless steel hangerS", they mean only one hanger at the rear. You're on your own for the other hanger. Really? $600 and they don't include the center hanger?
- The tail pipe hits the rear tire. I finally got them to bend me a custom tail pipe per my design.

Basically, it took way too much of my time & effort to get this system installed correctly. Am I happy with it now? Yes. Would I buy one again? No.
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  #7  
Old May 21st, 2012, 11:30 PM
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Thanks Jeff.

Looks like I'll go the standard route and see if galvenizing makes any sense.
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  #8  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 02:39 PM
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Jason - A little more info on my experience:

Many years ago, I had a regular steel system coated inside & out with a ceramic coating by Jet-Hot. The pipes held up great. The muffler rotted from the inside out (since there was no way to coat the inside of the muffler).

I wouldn't bother with hot-dip galvanizing. First, they won't be able to dip the muffler. Second, the temperature up at the front of the exhaust will exceed the limitations of the galvanizing.

Another option would be to find a local restoration or hot rod shop and have them install a 304 stainless system.
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  #9  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 03:35 PM
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Some of the stainless systems look rusty after a year or so, but still don't actually rust. For example, my 97 Mercedes C230 still has the original exhaust. It is brown but the pipes are still solid.
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  #10  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 03:37 PM
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Yes this could very well be true. The only thing I can say abut mine is that it doesn't *look* like stainless anymore, but I haven't had it long enough to be able to predict it's actual longevity.
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  #11  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 04:12 PM
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One thing about exhaust systems (and my truck is proof through experience)... if you off road, your exhaust is subject to a ton of abuse. There is a high likliehood that you will bend or crush your exhuast long before it rots out (be it cheapo steel or $tainless). The more you off road the more true this is.

But, if you prowl the concrete jungle mostly and take it carefull and easy off road then the corosion resistant route may pay off for you.

Just food for thought.
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  #12  
Old May 22nd, 2012, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemanshort View Post
One thing about exhaust systems (and my truck is proof through experience)... if you off road, your exhaust is subject to a ton of abuse. There is a high likliehood that you will bend or crush your exhuast long before it rots out (be it cheapo steel or $tainless). The more you off road the more true this is.

But, if you prowl the concrete jungle mostly and take it carefull and easy off road then the corosion resistant route may pay off for you.

Just food for thought.
That's what I was thinking when I realized how low it sits below the bulkhead

And good points on the heat and mufflers

For once I can make this easy on myself and just by whats readily availabke and cheap
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  #13  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texrover

That's what I was thinking when I realized how low it sits below the bulkhead

And good points on the heat and mufflers

For once I can make this easy on myself and just by whats readily availabke and cheap
I just went down and had 2" tucked up tight from front to rear and took it out the pto. hole. I got the exhaust pipe good and hot and powder coated with high heat powder coat. It looks good and it's protected.
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  #14  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 09:06 AM
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Just a heads up. I read somewhere on another forum or magazine that a guy did the same thing and turned out that the exhaust was coming back into the truck. Something to do with the airflow around the truck.
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  #15  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 01:54 PM
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I hear you, I spent a weekend (a few weeks ago) double sealing all of my doors; maybe that will help.

Thanks for the post.
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  #16  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 10:57 PM
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just when i thought i'd make this simple, kullberg blows me up!

by the way kullberg, from the pic in your avatar i think you need to share more. just sayin'
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  #17  
Old May 24th, 2012, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texrover View Post
just when i thought i'd make this simple, kullberg blows me up!

by the way kullberg, from the pic in your avatar i think you need to share more. just sayin'
I also just got my new window tracks, maybe i can get rid of some rattles.
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  #18  
Old May 24th, 2012, 11:48 PM
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Nice!
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  #19  
Old May 25th, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texrover View Post
Nice!
even with the 2" shackle lift I still have a little clearance problem on the rears, I think I will build side skid rails to pick up the 1/2" of clearance I need.
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  #20  
Old May 25th, 2012, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kullberg

even with the 2" shackle lift I still have a little clearance problem on the rears, I think I will build side skid rails to pick up the 1/2" of clearance I need.
Hmm, 2" shackle lift. How to do this?
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