Series door top rebuild - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old January 29th, 2013, 06:08 PM
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Bill Adams
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Not really a dark art. You can use a bar of soap. Rub it on the surface you are annealing. When it darkens you know that it has gotten hot enough. Allow to cool and work the metal.
I assume that you can get a MAPP torch in Italy...

I didn't bother annealing. I just used a Stanley flat pry bar and worked my way around (took three passes) until I had the frame loose. To put the skin back on, I used a wood block and a rubber mallet to bend the edges back. I did resort to using a body hammer here and there.
The only tricky part is the area where the "shoulder' is.

@charles;
If you have the skins off the door tops, and they aren't too rusty, then a run thru the galvy will do them wonders. Only thing is the threads on the studs. You'll want those to be decent. The channel where the glass channel goes can be swiss cheese, as long as you can get a screw into it here and there. Once the door top is reassembled and you have the trim pieces on you'll never know.

One thing you'll want for doing body work is a set of boards for your sawhorses that you cover with carpet.
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  #22  
Old January 29th, 2013, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
The only tricky part is the area where the "shoulder' is.
True, you will get some cracking unless you're extremely careful (ask me how I know!)
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  #23  
Old January 30th, 2013, 12:37 PM
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Nice...

Thanks.
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  #24  
Old February 1st, 2013, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cube II View Post
Oh.
Annealing.


That black art which involves full moon, a bonfire and a dozen virgins before being mastered properly?



And a flame thrower?


Uhm...
You can do it with MAPP or propane instead of a flame thrower but the chicks are non-negotiable!
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  #25  
Old February 1st, 2013, 02:00 PM
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I will trade you limestone early 90/110 door tops for NAS doortops if you realy want the series look, or you could just paint the NAS ones series colors. Only a nutter would be able to tell the difference.

The NAS/early 90/110 tops are WAY better than series doortops IMHO.
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  #26  
Old February 1st, 2013, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilburner View Post
You can do it with MAPP or propane instead of a flame thrower but the chicks are non-negotiable!
I'll work on that part

Great to hear from you!
Where have you been?
Don't tell me...snowmobiling?
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  #27  
Old February 4th, 2013, 10:41 PM
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I made a new thread in the small projects section. I'll update it when I put the skins back on.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...593#post411593

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cube II View Post
While waiting for RN to manufacture lower doors as well
I have 3 sets of Series doors waiting to be refurbished.

I haven't found yet the "how to skin a Series door" for dummies.

Anybody with a proven, simple method or a good link with good photos explaining what to do and how?
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  #28  
Old March 1st, 2013, 02:40 PM
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X2 on the early defender door tops. I have had both RN's and early defender ones. If I had to choose I'd take the defender ones. The RM's are good also and more reasonably priced. The defender ones can be pricey.
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  #29  
Old March 4th, 2013, 04:21 PM
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Bob
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door top skins

Door tops are skinned and will be coming your way tomorrow. They are all straight the lens has distorted the outer ones
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  #30  
Old March 4th, 2013, 04:39 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Whoohoo! Thanks Bob!
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  #31  
Old March 28th, 2013, 12:13 PM
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how did you make out putting the skins on?
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  #32  
Old March 28th, 2013, 12:35 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I have not installed them and I suspect it will be a while before I do so because I want to paint the skins first. Although thinking about it, I guess I should paint the frames too (which are now galvanized).

I'll give it some thought, but maybe I should prep/prime the frames and skins, install the skins, then they just need the final paint, which will be later in the project.
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