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  #141  
Old July 20th, 2011, 04:35 PM
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steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
Thanks all for the positive reinforcement! So I got the transmission in too! Next up will be to build tcase mount brackets that bolt on similar to the stock ones. My tcase is clocked a bit to help the front driveshaft clear the transmission, so the stock ones wont work, plus I'm pretty sure my transfer case is back by a small amount too.

I'll also be able to figure out where to put my transmission cross member. I've got one from a rrc. Hopefully more progress to report soon.

Daniel
Awesome- I was just going to text you to see if you wanted a hand bolting the tranny up.... guess you got that under control!
What do you mean by clocked? I'm having difficulty picturing how if it is rotated slightly how the drive shaft wont fit.
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  #142  
Old July 20th, 2011, 04:48 PM
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If it wasn't clocked the front output shaft from the tcase would be pointing right into the bottom edge of the chevy bellhousing. Its not that the drive shaft wont fit, its the stock tcase mounting brackets that wont fit anymore.

D
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  #143  
Old July 21st, 2011, 05:58 AM
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Teriann Wakeman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
If it wasn't clocked the front output shaft from the tcase would be pointing right into the bottom edge of the chevy bellhousing. Its not that the drive shaft wont fit, its the stock tcase mounting brackets that wont fit anymore.
I'm a little concerned when you wrote about the front prop shaft proximity to the underside of the bellhousing. When the front suspension is under full compression the front prop shaft can swing up quite a bit.

When you are ready to fit the front prop shaft you might check clearance for both simulated full compression and extension then keep a close look out for a metal to metal ring from contact when you first put it though its paces.

I had to grind some metal off the lower side of the bell housing (different from yours) for full up suspension compression and make a divot in the front top of the bulkhead cross member for additional clearance at full downward suspension expansion.

You may not have the same problem, but be aware that it might be an issue when fully exercising the suspension and keep an eye out for it.

Looking good so far. If you feel inclined to write a how-to web page of your conversion I would be happy to host it in my engine conversion section.
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1960 Land Rover Dormobile, The go anywhere class B RV
1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #144  
Old July 21st, 2011, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeriAnn View Post
I'm a little concerned when you wrote about the front prop shaft proximity to the underside of the bellhousing. When the front suspension is under full compression the front prop shaft can swing up quite a bit.
Thanks Teriann. I most definitely will be paying attention to how my drive shaft functions under different angles. Remember I'm spring over axle though so I'll be surprised if my driveshaft swings up much at all. I dont have the front diff installed yet but I believe there is close to 10" of rise between the diff and the tcase. When I make my ubolt plates they will have some sort of vertical piece that will contact the stock frame bumpstop before anything bad happens and should limit up travel of the spring to 4-5". I was planning to weld a piece of 2"x4" tubing to the top of the ubolt plates for this. There is more weight to go on the rig before I'm done so this 10" measurement will decrease I'm sure, but I think I'll be ok.

I'm still not sure what I'm going go with for my front drive shaft. My current plan for version 1.0 is to use a modified RRC front shaft. I'm going to cut the splined slip joint off of one shaft and weld it on to another so it will have twice the travel. I'm going to keep the end flanges in their current relation to each other and hope for the best. The concept is to keep the front driveline geometry similiar to a coiler.

This project has been a big learning process. I keep telling myself that is why its taking so long. Any input on this appreciated.

Daniel
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  #145  
Old July 21st, 2011, 10:56 AM
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Might want to just get a custom'ish driveshaft from Great Basin Rovers or the like. Easier in the long run?
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  #146  
Old July 21st, 2011, 05:56 PM
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If custom call Tom woods. IMHO there is not better option for the price.
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  #147  
Old August 10th, 2011, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
If custom call Tom woods. IMHO there is not better option for the price.
Having had teething problems in both shafts caused by trying to use different Rover prop shafts I have to agree that this is probably the best answer.

Rover slip joints are not very long. Ran out of slip joint (not long enough) in the rear eventually causing problems with the transfercase to adapter studs trying to pull out.

The Front prop shaft started off with clicking on occasion caused by the knuckles of the yolk hitting one another while rotating. Not enough clearance at the angle it was running when the suspension was extended in the downward direction. I had a divot added to the front top of the bulkhead cross member just below where the front prop shaft crosses over. This is standard for military 109 & I think the 109 One Ton. I still ended up with a scratch ring around the prop shaft where it rubbed on lower suspension articulation. And I had a second ring on the shaft directly below a bell housing flange from upward suspension articulation. I ground off some metal from the bell housing flange and eventually went to a smaller diameter front prop shaft with long slip joint and high angle yolks.

I think your best bet for both front an drear is to measure your static distance between the centre of each flange mating surface and the difference in round to centre distance of both mid flange mounting location. With static shaft length and difference in static yolk mounting heights go shopping for custom propshafts designed to properly fit your truck. I didn't know better and tried to make due with various LR stock shafts. It cost me extra money and ongoing teething problems.

Go with a company that had a long and good reputation with specific built rock crawlers. Tom Woods has the best reputation that I know of.

For something that seems so simple prop shafts can cause lots of ongoing problems if you try to adapt something designed for different angles and length. Save yourself the headaches & have custom ones made up by someone who knows what they are doing for modified rock crawlers.

I had Great Basin make up a set for me. The rear is still on and trouble free. The front showed twisting in less than 2 years from new and has been replaced by something Timm made up. And your engine is likely a lot more powerful than mine.
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  #148  
Old September 18th, 2011, 06:22 PM
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Hey folks:

So after much slacking I'm getting back on the project. I'm losing my parking spot for my 109/110 thing in a few months so I figure I better get this one done so I can bring the 109 home. I need deadlines!

Today I tackled the radiator. I cut the sheet metal on the inside of the breakfast panel that attached to the stock radiator and the bonnet latch mechanism. I also used a 3" hole saw to cut the backs off the head light buckets. Then I welded on a new top panel where the latch mechanism was to attach to the radiator and keep it in place at the top. For the bottom of the radiator I cut rectagular pieces out of an old tire and screwed them into the front cross member. The bottom of the radiator is a piece of channel that sits right on the rubber so it cant move. I made two brackets that go over the top of the radiator and then bolt on to the new top panel. Feels very solid and the radiator should stay in place nicely while off road.

I'm using the stock GM mechanical fan so I need to keep the fan clutch approx. 3/4" away from the radiator. It's spot on at this point. The radiator looks like its too tall, but it all fits under a deluxe hood that doesn't have the spare tire dish. It would not fit under any of the other hood types with out modification to the hood frames. I was running a standard hood, so the deluxe hood will take some getting used to.

Here are some pics. Next plan is to finish assembling the front axle.
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  #149  
Old September 19th, 2011, 10:58 AM
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Fit looks pretty good. Not second guessing you, but do you need the rad to be that tall? I had been running the IH 345 thru a 3 core radiator that is about 4 inches shorter and there were no cooling issues.
I'm a little concerned about chafe between the top brackets and the AL radiator. Plasti-Dip?
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  #150  
Old September 19th, 2011, 11:59 AM
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Yeah I will put something between the two pieces to protect them. I was thinking of lining the inside of the bracket with inner tube and cutting more tire to sit in the top channel of the radiator. Thanks for the plastidip idea, I hadn't thought of that.

As far as the radiator size I went with Timm Cooper's recommendation. I also figured the biggest one that would fit made the most sense. Thanks.

Daniel
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  #151  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
Yeah I will put something between the two pieces to protect them. I was thinking of lining the inside of the bracket with inner tube and cutting more tire to sit in the top channel of the radiator. Thanks for the plastidip idea, I hadn't thought of that.
Go to your local Orchard Supply store. In the cutting table area, usually under the cutting table they stock rubber pads of different types and thicknesses. For my bottom mount I used a shallow 'U' channel with a thick neoprene rubber padding. Plus a pad up against the side of the power steering box. My top mount is basically the same thing facing downward.

And don't forget that with a puller fan you should make a fan shroud.

I was going to show a picture or two but evidently have not learned how to attach them to a reply. Our radiators look to be about the same width but mine is an inch or two shorter and I''m using an electric fan from a V8 Mercedes mounted as a pusher. It is the largest dia that will fit in the radiator bulkhead.


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1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #152  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 10:45 AM
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Hey Teriann

What did you do for a fan shroud? I guess I should start by looking at one from a 2001 suburban which is what this engine came from. I did make a few changes to my top mounts so the brackets can't come in contact with the sides of the radiator tubes. I also had to rework them because I dropped the transmission down a few more degrees. This pulled the fan too far from the radiator so it needed to have the top lean back more.

I'd post a pic but I'm on my phone. My kid only gets to play video games for an hour or so on weekend days so he's on my laptop. .

To post pics you can click on the paper clip thing up top and then choose a file.


Also started cutting interior sheet metal yesterday. Ive got the seat box started and the passenger floor too. I'll probably post more up later with pics. Thanks.

Daniel
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  #153  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 09:25 PM
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Spent all day remaking my tcase mounting brackets. As I said earlier I moved the trans down a few degrees so I had to remake the brackets. I wasn't happy with version 1 anyway. Also a pic of the start of my seat box mod. Never really done any sheet metal work so any good advice gladly taken. Here are some pics from today. Thanks.
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  #154  
Old October 3rd, 2011, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
Hey Teriann

What did you do for a fan shroud? I guess I should start by looking at one from a 2001 suburban which is what this engine came from. I did make a few changes to my top mounts so the brackets can't come in contact with the sides of the radiator tubes. I also had to rework them because I dropped the transmission down a few more degrees. This pulled the fan too far from the radiator so it needed to have the top lean back more.
My mechanical fan sat low where the bottom third was below the radiator. I didn't keep it on very long. Electric pusher fans don't need shrouds, only pullers.

I had a home made shroud. Sheet metal the height of the radiator (or in my case the height of the radiator plus the front cross member) and wider than the radiator. Cut a round hole for the fan then bend the sides in plus a second bend for the mounting flange. Weld a strip at top & bottom to make a box. Much better than trying to align a shroud made for a different shape radiator and fan location. The shroud is real important for puller fan cooling so do it right by making one that fits your application.

Interesting transfercase mounts. My transfercase is in the stock front to rear location but moved over a couple inches to the passenger side. Engine & gearbox assy. is parallel to the frame and centered more than the 4 cyl drive train is. I use the stock cross member with the mounting brackets moved over a little and the transfercase brake bell crank reworked a little to be flatter.

Mathew Jackson cut off the stock transfercase mount and is using one from a Disco I. He is also using an NP435.

Yours is the first I have seen that has two brackets instead of a single bar. Did you reenforce the frame where the brackets bolt, like you do for the power steering mounts on the frame??? Thoughts about adding a reenforcing cross rail between the brackets? The torque from your engine will be trying to twist the drive train. The rear propshaft will be trying to twist the transfercase along its rotating axis when you are moving under compression. I bet there is a reason that the factory used a beefy cross member that spanned the frame instead of individual mounts like they do for the engine. Just a suggestion that you look at the mounts & mounting from the perspective of rotating torque forces if you have not already done so.

For people following along and thinking of a future swap, Advance adapters now has adapters to go from a number of beefy US truck gearboxes to the Series transfercase. Mathew Jackson is the contact person @ Advance Adapters for these. And of course I have a web page:


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/advance_Adapter.htm

So paper clip for pictures. I'll try it. The following is a test:
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1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #155  
Old October 3rd, 2011, 09:55 AM
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How 'bout that! The pictures seem to work. Thanks for the how-to. The pictures include the accelerator pedal assy I used from a 200tdi Defender with wire linkage. I had to modify the assembly a little to get it to fit in a Series bulkhead. I added this when I went from a carb to Mustang EFI.

The small block Ford engine is a tad longer than the Chevy small block to make room for the front mounted distributor. My front crossmember was cut out, moved forward one inch and welded back on. New radiator bulkhead mount holes were drilled an inch to the rear so the radiator bulkhead sits in the stock location.

The mounting for the stock Series clutch slave cylinder. With the slave cylinder horizontal and the line a straight drop down from the SIII master cylinder my clutch the is self bleeding. Just pour fluid in & pump the pedal a bunch of times. In 12 years I've never had to bleed the circuit even though I rebuilt the cylinder and replaced the flex house a few times.

Another picture is the yolks I now use vs the factory stock one.
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1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #156  
Old October 3rd, 2011, 10:18 AM
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Hey Teriann:

My pics may not be clear or I may need coffee, but I did keep the stock tcase cross member in its original location. I'm also using the stock bushings minus the metal shims. I drilled holes in the cross member for the bushings and bolt them to the cross member from underneath. The factory provided a nice big hole on the bottom too.

My brackets attach to the tcase like the stock ones do and go forward a few inches to the tcase cross member.

I still need to replace the cross member under the engine. Haven't decided if I'll make one or try to use the rrc cross member I have sitting here.

The brackets are thick. Drivers side is 3/8" and passenger side is 1/4". Hopefully they will be able to stand the forces applied to them.

Thanks.

Daniel
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  #157  
Old October 3rd, 2011, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
Hey Teriann:

My pics may not be clear or I may need coffee, but I did keep the stock tcase cross member in its original location.


Ah, OK I see it now. I didn't know which direction was which from your photos of the mounted brackets & transfercase. I didn't know which way was up so thought the brackets were attached to the frame side rails. Sorry for getting excited when you had things under control.
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  #158  
Old October 13th, 2011, 11:02 PM
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Hey all:

So I'm moving all my vehicle stuff to a new shop. I got the keys last week, so now I'm really motivated to get this thing so it can roll so I can tow it out of here and get it inside before it starts raining.

I've spent the last few afternoons working on getting the steering all set up. I'm almost there and think I'll be done with this part of the project by next week. I welded up the other swivel housing and did all the geometry about where my tie rod ends will need to be and I started building my steering arms.

Today I ordered a "Chevy crossover steering kit" from Ruff Stuff Specialties. It's basically gm 1 ton tre's with some weld in hex head tre adapters and 1" I.D. .25" dom tubing. The drag link will get the high angle gm 1 ton tre's. Hopefully this stuff will arrive Saturday and I'll be able to get it all together soon after that.

Here are some pics of how my passenger side steering arm fits. In the end I was able to get 4 M10 1.5 bolts through the 3/4" plate steering arms. After mocking it up for the pics I added another piece of 3/16" plate to the side of the arm.

The drivers side arm pieces are cut and drilled and ready to be welded. If I'm happy with how this thing steers then I'll probably have some one piece arms machined to match these. Anyway here are some pics from today and another of me towing my 109 to the shop with my Brat!
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  #159  
Old October 13th, 2011, 11:19 PM
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I would like to know more about that sweet brat!!
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #160  
Old October 14th, 2011, 12:20 AM
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I would like to know more about that sweet brat!!
That's my daily driver at the moment! I've had it for 4 years or so. I had a remote control brat when I was a kid, so decided I needed a real one.

I swapped in an ej22 motor from a legacy and a 5sp dual range tranny from a loyale. Its got a 4in lift in the front and 3in in the back. 15" Peugeot wheels, limited slip rear diff. Super fun in the snow and it gets close to 30 miles per gallon. Smog legal in California too. I think its the only ej powered brat in California at the moment. There was another one is S.Cal but it got rear ended and totaled.

Lots of info on this swap at the ultimatesubaru.org

Daniel
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