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  #101  
Old March 17th, 2011, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I would think that a piece of c channel would be better. Got a neighbor with a boat on a trailer? Be sure to wrap your hack saw with a t shirt to reduce noise.
Now that was funny. That seems to be a *from experience* type of comment.....
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  #102  
Old April 11th, 2011, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
I am definitely considering the hrtc as an option. I've conversed with Teriann W. who has one in her 109 dormy. The gearing is really tough to decide on especially since I dont have much experience with the different options. I know I want a low crawling ratio and I know I want freeway speeds. I also know my budget and that I may have to do things in stages.
I seem to be late to the party.

With a stock Series transfercase and 4.7s I found that I could go slow very quickly. The v8s like to loaf at lower RPMS & the stock Series gearing puts you at around 3,400 RPM at 60 MPH (32 inch dia tyres). A V8 sounds a little frantic cruising in that RPM range.

The Ashcroft high ratio gear set basically leaves your low range ratios alone and puts your high range ratio very close to that of a stock Series transfercase in front of 3.54 R&Ps. Too high for the 2.25 to push but easy for a V8.

With the Ashcroft kit installed and 255/85R16 tyres I turn 65 MPH at 2650 rpm, and 70 MPH at about 3000 RPM. I could tame that a little with 35 inch tyres but I worry that I would not be able to climb into it in a straight skirt without hiking the skirt up.

For those of you who do not know my 1960 Dormobile, Timm Cooper converted it to a Ford 302 and T-18 gearbox back in 1999. It already had a Salisbury rear end with ARB locker in back. Since then I have added a thing or two and in early 2010 Timm swapped the T-18 for a close ratio NP435.

Current drive train is 1968 Mustang 302 with 1991 Mustang EFI, Ford NP435 gearbox housing with Chevy close ratio gear set, Series transfercase with Ashcroft high ratio kit, front axle is Rover with Range Rover classic carrier, Truetrack diff, 4.75:1 R&P, Seriestrek 24 spline axles & front disc brakes. Rear is Salisbury with ARB locker and Great basin hardened rear axles & drive flanges. Timm replaced my front & rear propshafts when he converted to the gearbox.

I found the T18's 70:1 low range first to be too low for almost all the driving I do in my Dormobile. It is not a purpose built rock crawler. The gap between the 70:1 low range first gear and the low range second 34:1 ratio left a big gap where I desperately wanted a gear for most of the driving I do. I wanted a ratio in between 70:1 & 34:1.

The NP435 close ratio gave me a 50:1 low range first (stock LR is 41:1) and a low range second of 25:1 (stock LR is 24.6:1). I have found that 50:1 works VERY well for the kinds of places I bring my Dormobile. and am MUCH happier with my new gear ratios. I sometimes convoy with other Series rigs and second low is a common driving gear. Having almost identical low range second gearing makes convoying easy and pleasant. The T18 often had me convoying at under 1000 RPM.

Unlike Daniel I don't weld and can't lift really heavy things so I get Timm to do those things for me.
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1960 Land Rover Dormobile, The go anywhere class B RV
1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #103  
Old April 11th, 2011, 03:22 PM
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[QUOTE=TeriAnn;276254]I seem to be late to the party.

Hey Teriann!

Better late than never! I have made almost no progress in the last month and definitely wont be ready for mendo. Oh well.

I'm repainting my front axle this week. I went to install my front diff and decided my paint job looked awful, so i stripped the paint and am going to do it over again. I decided to use real paint this time and have a 2 part epoxy spray paint and ppg defleet essential in silver for the axles! Since its a spring over and the axles will be very visible I want them to be a bit blingy. I'll post photos for people to flame once they're painted.

Also bought a complete rebuild kit for the np435 and I hope to get it up to Timm in the very near future for him to rebuild. It probably doesn't really need the rebuild, but after he's done with it I'll be sure, plus he's got a suffix b tcase that I'll have him attach to it!

Cheers,

Daniel
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  #104  
Old April 11th, 2011, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
Also bought a complete rebuild kit for the np435 and I hope to get it up to Timm in the very near future for him to rebuild. It probably doesn't really need the rebuild, but after he's done with it I'll be sure, plus he's got a suffix b tcase that I'll have him attach to it!
Never hurts! I had mine rebuilt too before Timm put it in. I too used one of Timm's adapters.

What are you doing for gearing?

1:1 (fourth gear) X 1.15:1 (high range) X 4.7:1 gives you 5.405:1 at the axle. With 35 inch dia tyres you need 3373 RPM to reach 65 MPH.

Of course your low range first gear is 6.68:1 (NP435 granny first) X 2.89:1 (Suffix B low range) X 4.7:1 = 90.73:1 at the axle. That comes out to 2 MPH at 1742 RPM or 871 RPM for 1 MPH Gonzo rock crawler! And I thought 70:1 was low.

This truck I'll have to see when you get it finished
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1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #105  
Old April 11th, 2011, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
With the Ashcroft kit installed and 255/85R16 tyres I turn 65 MPH at 2650 rpm, and 70 MPH at about 3000 RPM. I could tame that a little with 35 inch tyres but I worry that I would not be able to climb into it in a straight skirt without hiking the skirt up.
Vortech blower kit will cure that. I think you'd have to pooch out the breakfast tho...but then you could put a Fairey or Roverdrive on it with no problem. Whheee! Look at me, I'm FLYING!
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1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
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  #106  
Old April 11th, 2011, 06:03 PM
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Hey Teriann

This is all in this thread but I've got 4.14 gears in the diffs an I have a NOS Santana overdrive. I can't remember the numbers any more but something around 80:1 low range first gear and 80+mph in high range overdrive at 3k rpm.

I'm sure you will see this rig. Maybe mendo 2012 or Linus's new year DV expedition? Hope I'm done by then.

Daniel
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  #107  
Old April 11th, 2011, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Vortech blower kit will cure that. I think you'd have to pooch out the breakfast tho...but then you could put a Fairey or Roverdrive on it with no problem. Whheee! Look at me, I'm FLYING!
I'm not sure about a Vortech blower kit for a Ford 302 with '91 Mustang EFI or how it would change the engine RPM at given speeds. I know the pooch loves his breakfast and everyone else's too if he could.

Overdrives are incompatible with the high ratio kit. Otherwise I would have added one to get a fifth gear.

------ Follow up post added April 11th, 2011 03:47 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
Hey Teriann

This is all in this thread but I've got 4.14 gears in the diffs an I have a NOS Santana overdrive. I can't remember the numbers any more but something around 80:1 low range first gear and 80+mph in high range overdrive at 3k rpm.

Opps I missed the change of R&P gears. Silly question, have you verified that the A & B suffix transfer cases are overdrive compatible? I think the early boxes may have a different ratio main shaft output gear. You may need a Suffix C or later box. Wow a Santana OD is the cat's meow!

Lets see,

1:1 X 1.15:1 X 4.14 = 4.761:1 without OD & a Santana is probably good for 28% which is what 3.41 at the axle? which is 2128 RPM at 65 MPH. Looking good.

Have you verified that the A & B suffix transfer cases are overdrive compatible?
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1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #108  
Old April 11th, 2011, 07:51 PM
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No I haven't verified that. I had a fairey on my suffix a with no problem and Timm is aware of all my plans and hasn't brought this up, but I guess I could call Bill Davis and ask him. I guess worst case scenerio my low range will be more reasonable than 80:1. Isn't the suffix c low 2.35:1? Anyway glad to have your input Teriann. Thanks.

Daniel
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  #109  
Old April 11th, 2011, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
I'm not sure about a Vortech blower kit for a Ford 302 with '91 Mustang EFI or how it would change the engine RPM at given speeds
Here ya go babe
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=83
345 Hp on pump gas, stock engine, are you kidding me!

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...ack_system.jpg
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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  #110  
Old April 11th, 2011, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
No I haven't verified that.
I just brought the question up because I do not know the answer and installing the overdrive is the wrong time to say "opps". With a different low range gear ratio I thought there might possibly be a different number of teeth in the gear set which might cause compatibility problems.

------ Follow up post added April 11th, 2011 08:43 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Here ya go babe
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=83
345 Hp on pump gas, stock engine, are you kidding me!
I wonder what the RPM range for the blowers added boost? Interesting thing about my set up is that my engine very seldom sees North of 3000 rpm so everything is focused for the low end. AFR cylinder heads with the smaller passages & valves for better low end fuel flow & mixing. A towing cam that robs from the high end to produce extra torque & power at the bottom end. The engine power is well suited for my truck and the way I use her. If I ever decide I need more power I think I would go for a stroker crank since it adds its torque to the low end of the RPM band. For me, most all the standard speed equipment is useless or more than useless if it robs anything from the low RPM range.

So far the best thing I've done for the engine is the EFI. The around town fuel mileage took a decent boost, the engine runs smoother, esp at very low RPMs, it runs cleaner and handles big changes in altitude. Since I iive at 7100 feet & everyplace else is a few thousand feet down hill that is an important trait.
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1961 Triumph TR3A. Life is too short not to drive a classic British roadster.


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  #111  
Old April 12th, 2011, 06:05 AM
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TW, I'm going to be rebuilding the 109 soon with a similar drive train to yours. I'm yanking the IH 345 and putting in a 302/NP435. It will be EFI too and be normally aspirated until at some point I put in a Vortech. Or turbos. The supercharger, which is belt driven, is boosting the intake air at all engine speed so it will be adding HP throughout the RPM range. A turbocharger requires exhaust pressure to spin the turbine so there is some delay in the time it takes for the boost to kick in. The advantage to the turbocharger is one moving part, whereas the supercharger needs a drive mechanism. Neither one is perfect of course, they both have their points. Noise is also a factor.
The goal for both is to get the same amount of horsepower a large engine will produce in a smaller displacement.
I would think for someone who is at high altitude the supercharger would be a no brainer.
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  #112  
Old April 12th, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
The goal for both is to get the same amount of horsepower a large engine will produce in a smaller displacement.
I would think for someone who is at high altitude the supercharger would be a no brainer.
Weeellllll, except that the 302 pulls my dormobile around smartly and provides all the power I need. Granted, it might be nice to have a little more power on those miles long steep grades but even there I have no problem passing 4.6 Range Rovers.

I'm of the school that prefers to under stress hardware than overstress it. I guess it came from replacing too many front and rear axles on the trail or limping home with a broken Rover diff & replacing Rover gearboxes more often than I felt I should have to. Right now the power of my engine is well matched to the strength of my drive trail and if anything the drive train can handle more than my engine puts out. Which is exactly where I want it. The older I get the less willing I am to replace parts on the trail.

I don't feel a need to burn tyres on the pavement to impress others or for giggles. The truck can move out smartly and merge well into freeway traffic. SO I'm happy with what I have for power.

When I'm in the mood for hot rod performance driving I hop into the TR3 and go prowling for the modern roadsters that weigh almost twice as much as my 1800 lb roadster.

Once you gain experience with the EFI 302 you may find that it is all you need to power your 109. Or you may decide that you need a higher warp speed.
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  #113  
Old April 12th, 2011, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TeriAnn View Post

I'm of the school that prefers to under stress hardware than overstress it.
I'd say you hit the nail right on the head.
It's a Land Rover and a chain is only as strong as the weakest link.
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  #114  
Old May 6th, 2011, 08:25 PM
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Hey Folks:

Finally got off my butt and made some progress on this build. I decided it was time to tackle the high steering issue. Here is version 1.0. I've got more swivel housings so if this doesn't work I'll try again. I'll take any input as this is all new stuff to me.

So the goal is to have my steering arms bolt on the the top of the swivel housing and have my drag link and track rod in front of the axle and above the springs. I welded a piece of 1/2" plate vertically sitting on top of the steering stop bolt hole and then another piece of 1/2" plate perpendicular to that piece. The top surface of this piece is in the same plain as the top of the upper swivel pin. I intend to bolt my new steering arm to this piece of plate as well as through the swivel pin. This will give me four bolts holding the arm to the swivel housing instead of two.

I also welded 1/4" plate on the leading edge of the housing to brace the 1/2 plate pieces. Obviously I chopped off the front steering arm that was cast with the swivel housing and I will chop off the track rod arm too.

Here are some pics.
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  #115  
Old May 9th, 2011, 12:24 PM
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I like the idea. Did you preheat the cast first? Welding to cast seems to be a black art.
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  #116  
Old May 9th, 2011, 01:35 PM
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I did preheat everything with a map gas torch till it was smoking hot. I didn't get everything completely straight the first try so had to deconstruct it which was not fun, but made me feel much more confident that my welds were good. I also hit it with the torch lightly while it cooled down to make the cooling process go more slowly. Hopefully this will be ok. I will definitely put the steering through some strain testing before I put this thing on the road.

I've got the driver's side ready to go now and intend to weld it up in the next day or so. I also have access to a painless wiring 60218 harness this week, so I'm going to take a stab at modifying the stock gm engine harness. I have some experience with efi harness making, so this part doesn't worry me, just a matter of how much time I want to spend vs. how cheap I want to be. Not paying for the harness means new stronger front axles!

Glad you were able to make the mendo trip this year. Hopefully my rig will be done in time for next year

Daniel
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  #117  
Old May 9th, 2011, 03:49 PM
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Good deal, just keep an eye on it and watch for cracks. Yes Mendo was super fun, cant wait to get down there again next year.
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  #118  
Old May 10th, 2011, 03:46 PM
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Ok so here is swivel housing version 1.1. I decided to box in the whole thing. I will lose the fill hole, but can still fill from the top swivel pin or from the oil fill height hole. No biggie. Hopefully much stronger. Also got the engine harness off the engine today. Its all marked and I know which things I'm keeping and which can go. I've also got my friends painless 60218 harness sitting here so I will be spending the afternoon trimming down my harness. Also dropped my transmission at Timm's for complete rebuild with Novak rebuild kit. He will also be mating up the freshly rebuilt suffix b transfer case and the NOS santana overdrive. Might take him a bit as he is in the thick of my friend's 88" truck which by the way is going to be another rediculous Timm C. build. Here are the latest pics.
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  #119  
Old May 10th, 2011, 11:34 PM
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Ok, so I spent all afternoon cutting away at my harness. I removed all unneeded wiring and trimmed everything back to the ecu. I went through the pin outs pin by pin (there are 160 on the ecu) and made sure each one was either connected to something I needed or removed. I went to the pick n pull and got an OBDII data link connector off a chevy truck. I'm going to wire the old choke light as my mil (malfunction indicator light). I still need to decide/figure what needs a fuse and set up a fuel pump relay and a main power relay. Other than that I need to decide where my battery is going to live (most likely under my seat) and run 12v from the battery and a switched 12v source to power this harness. Also need to get the ecu reflashed to remove all the unnecessary programs.

Here are the latest pics. First one is painless wiring, second is painful wiring
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  #120  
Old May 11th, 2011, 10:49 AM
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The high steer looks great Daniel. Overkill in a good way. When you compare it to a series swivel and steering arm it makes the series one look like a toothpick.... they never break.

Harness looks like hell. How much is the painless harness? You have devotion sir.

By they way, thanks for dropping by the steering bracket. There is no way I can get away with out going power steering... so be it.
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