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  #81  
Old February 26th, 2011, 11:12 PM
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steve
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Looking great
You gotta post some pictures of how those mounts work... very cool.
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  #82  
Old February 27th, 2011, 04:54 PM
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Daniel Rogers
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Thanks guys! Yes I'm going to widen the area between the footwells to fit the engine. I'm hoping to have the entire center panel out today and I will grind off the steering relay tabs too. The radiator will be there and I'm not going back to the old steering set up no matter what.

My steering was soooooo bad it was embarrassing! The relay was shot and I had the pitman arm installed wrong on the steering box so it had a much better turning radius going right than left. Driving my rig on pavement was a bit sketchy. On dirt it was much better.



So far today small progress has been made. Steve came over and took away my suffix a trans and tcase. So that is gone and now I will chop out that panel and be able to start mocking up the engine and transmission! Getting closer!

Daniel
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  #83  
Old February 28th, 2011, 12:53 AM
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steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
I'd be careful, that Steve guy is a bit shifty.

-Jeff
Ha!
I think this 'having old crusty series parts getting in your way' is contagious. While I was there I slao took a look at the p38 steering box. The series 1 may be getting power steering... I may not have a choice with a defender 200tdi.

Those motor mounts that Daniel put in use radius arm bushings... how cool is that?
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  #84  
Old March 5th, 2011, 05:27 PM
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Daniel Rogers
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So I got the center panel out today. I can see now how the engine is actually going to fit! I think I want an axle under this thing when I put the engine in to make sure the axle doesnt hit the pan or anything else, so I need to get that axle painted.

I think I'm going to take it to work tomorrow and paint it there where we have a nice heated garage with lots of space. Luckily I'm the boss so I can get away with that kind of thing.

Anyway here is a pic of the hole were the engine and trans will go. Once the axle is back under the rig I'll get out the hoist and hang the engine and trans in there and start building my motor mounts and the new cross member for the transmission. I wonder if I can use the rangie transmission cross member I have? Hmmm.



Daniel
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  #85  
Old March 6th, 2011, 04:52 PM
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Daniel Rogers
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My plan is to put the engine and transmission in and then start mocking up the sheet metal with cardboard. The center panel and foot well side will be super easy, its the tunnel cover that will require some thought and attention to detail. There aren't too many custom tunnel covers out there that I've seen that were visually appealing to me. Mine will probably look like all the others... big flat boxy funnel shaped thing that looks nothing like the original cover.

I wonder if a d90 r380 seat box and tunnel cover would do the trick? Anyway I'll come up with something. I dont have any experience with sheet metal work, so it should be interesting. Luckily I've got a lifetime supply of pizza boxes to play with trying to come up with templates that will work.

I also still dont have the adapter for the np435 to the series t case. Not sure when that will get done, but Timm has a housing he is going to loan me so I can get everything fitted in place.

Daniel
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  #86  
Old March 7th, 2011, 10:59 PM
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I love craigslist! Found a nice almost new set of Hooker headers with down pipes today! The guy had them on a 5.3l in a tr7 dragster. They didn't breathe right with his built motor, so he went with something bigger.

Anyway they are the exact ones I was about to pay full price for so I'm happy. They are the hooker super competition block huggers. I got one side bolted up to the engine and they fit perfectly. Also took one of the stock engine mounts off the engine so I can use it as a template to begin making my new mounts.

Hopefully I'll be able to get the engine in the frame next weekend!

Daniel
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  #87  
Old March 8th, 2011, 07:58 AM
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I'd make the tunnel cover from fiberglass. You can use anything to make the male plug...cardboard, modeling clay, blue insulation foam, etc. cover the mold with something the glass won't stick to like Reynolds Wrap Release foil or Saran wrap (the classic not the new version) or the like. Garbage bags work too. If you want to get fancy you could make the mold from sheet aluminum, paint it with mold release agent and then do the lay up. For a one off I'd go cheap tho.
I'd use epoxy rather than polyester resin just cuz it's a little more heat tolerant. Go to the boat store and get a proper ribbed roller which helps lay the glass flat in the resin and gets the air bubbles out. West System, System III, MAS, all make good resin. Do alternating layers of cloth and light woven fabric, building to about a 16th of an inch.

------ Follow up post added March 8th, 2011 08:10 AM ------

Dan are you using a new crate engine or buying a used one? There is a nice cam available that will bump it up to 327 hp without any other changes. GM Performance 24503586 I'd definitely do that.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #88  
Old March 8th, 2011, 03:17 PM
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Daniel Rogers
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Well a bit more progress to report. I took the axle housing to work today and got the first coat of paint on it. The garage there is much warmer than at home, so I went for it. Hopefully I prepped well enough. I took it down to bare metal in most places and wiped it down with acetone before painting it. I used an oil based rustoleum and rolled it on with a little touch up roller. I'll do a few coats and hope for the best. So far so good.

Thanks Bill for the suggestion. I had never considered fiberglass. I'll look in to it. As far as engine mods go I think I'm going to wait and see. I will need to do something about the intake and I've got the headers so some kind of mild cam would probably be nice, but its going to make plenty of power as is. We shall see.

Any way here are some pics of the axle housing.
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  #89  
Old March 8th, 2011, 05:29 PM
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Bill Adams
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Caulk and paint hides what ain't.

What is it you need to do about the intake?
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #90  
Old March 8th, 2011, 05:41 PM
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steve
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Daniel,
Tony may have a defender tunnel cover that he is not going to use.

looking good!
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  #91  
Old March 8th, 2011, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Caulk and paint hides what ain't.

What is it you need to do about the intake?
I need to make one that will fit and look good under the hood. If you notice on the catahoula rig Timm modified an intake from a nada 6. Others have used the stock intake to airbox hose and attached a coiler air filter to that. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
Daniel,
Tony may have a defender tunnel cover that he is not going to use.

looking good!
Wow if I could get my hands on that just to see if it fits that would be wonderful! Maybe we should all get together for beer and pizza to discuss the possibility of this. Thanks.

So I continued working on the rig this afternoon and while taking off the other stock exhaust manifold one of the bolts snapped its head off. It was previously cracked and had rusted. Dang. There is about 1/2" of the bolt sticking out of the head so I'm soaking the thing with penetrating fluid and will extract it tomorrow. Cant seem to find the darn vise grips. Hoping to start making my engine mounts today. I also ordered the bushings that will support the engine today and they should be here Thursday so I'm still hoping to get this engine in the frame over the weekend.

Daniel
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  #92  
Old March 9th, 2011, 11:46 AM
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Something that works rather well, and seeing how you have a welder, is to take a nut, that is large enough to slip over the threads, and with some patients, weld the nut to the broken stud/bolt. The heat helps break loose the stuck part, as well as gives you a place to put a wrench to turn it out. I have had this work well, though sometimes it takes a few tries to get the nut welded on well enough.
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  #93  
Old March 9th, 2011, 05:14 PM
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Daniel Rogers
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Hey thanks for the idea! That worked great! No thread damage either!

So I put the second coat on my axle housing this morning and intend to go back down to work tonight and leave the axle close to the ovens to help it dry a bit more. I was hoping to get a coat of paint on the chassis in the engine compartment today but its too cold and is supposed to rain again tomorrow so no go. I still hope to get the engine in this weekend so I can finish up my mounts. I cut and drilled the plates that bolt to the engine. I used 5"X3/16 flat bar (which is thicker that the stock mount) and will probably just weld some square tubing to that. I need the engine hanging in place so I get the angles right and the length. I'm intending to have the engine off center by .75".

Thanks again for the idea to weld on a nut.

Daniel
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  #94  
Old March 16th, 2011, 09:25 PM
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More progress to report. I got the chassis painted in the engine area and after much measuring and geometry I made engine mount version 1.0. I've only got one side done so far and I'm pretty confident the arm will end up right over the frame mounted engine bushing and will leave me 1" clearance from the front edge of the fan clutch to the front cross member and I should be .75" off center towards the drivers side. I'll wait to drill the hole for the bushing bolt so I can fudge it a little bit if necessary.

The plate at the engine is 3/8" thick and the arms that go to the frame mounted bushing are 2"x.25" flat bar. Definitely more study than what was attached to the engine from the factory. Hopefully I'll get the other side done tomorrow and maybe I can test fit the engine this weekend. Its supposed to rain but who knows. It also looks like I'm picking up a 1987 rrc on Friday! I may not do much on the project this weekend.

Here are some pics.
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  #95  
Old March 16th, 2011, 10:35 PM
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Got the other side done too!

Daniel
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  #96  
Old March 17th, 2011, 08:52 AM
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That thing is gonna fly. Mounts look good. I always look at something like that and ask myself it would still work if the truck was upside down. If you can say yes, then I would say it passes the shade tree engineering test.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #97  
Old March 17th, 2011, 09:03 AM
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I don't about the flying thing but those mounts are going to deflect upward when you start hitting bumps. 1/4" isn't thick enough to support that much weight in a dynamic loading. You'd be better off welding a flange on both sides of the 1/4" material.
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  #98  
Old March 17th, 2011, 09:09 AM
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He said 3/8th but yeah I'd add a vertical triangular gusset to at least one side of it. That should stiffen it up immensely.
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  #99  
Old March 17th, 2011, 09:55 AM
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I can see your point Ren and Charles. I will weld some vertical pieces on the outside of the arms once I know these are in the correct place. Thanks for the input.

Also I will have a cross member that the bell housing will rest on with stock chevy rubber bellhousing bushings and the transfer case will be bolted in too. The load should be spread out in other words. Thanks.

Charles, the plates bolted to the engine are 3/8" but the arms coming off them are 1/4".

Daniel
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  #100  
Old March 17th, 2011, 12:33 PM
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I would think that a piece of c channel would be better. Got a neighbor with a boat on a trailer? Be sure to wrap your hack saw with a t shirt to reduce noise.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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