School me on leaf spring bushings - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Series Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old August 27th, 2010, 08:35 PM
UnfrozenCaveman's Avatar
UnfrozenCaveman
Status: Offline
Keith Armstrong
Various
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Land Between the Rivers
Posts: 684
Date, schmate.

I hear there's a guy who wants to know about spring bushings????

Anyone here know about those?

Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old August 27th, 2010, 11:44 PM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
Preferred removal method on old bushings is the propane torch. With the spring removed and the bolts out, point your Bernz-o-matic down the hole and hold it there until you get it good and hot. The rubber will begin to fizzle at which point you should be able to push the inner part of the bush out. Now all that's left in there is rubber and the outer shell. Dig out the rubber. Remove outer shell by sawing carefully with a sawzall until you are through the shell. Cold chisel removes the shell.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old August 28th, 2010, 10:06 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Don't breathe the fumes from the bushings though. We are talking level 10 bad for you.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old August 30th, 2010, 02:59 PM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
Jeez, that explains the backing out every Saturday night.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old August 30th, 2010, 03:30 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
It explains a lot of things
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old August 30th, 2010, 03:54 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old September 1st, 2010, 12:34 PM
Mark McDonough's Avatar
Mark McDonough
Status: Offline
Mark McDonough
66' IIa, 95 D 90 300 Tdi, 94,98 D1
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Up Country, NH USA
Posts: 179
C-Clamp

If you use plenty of anti-seize on the OD of the new bushings when fitting back in place you'll have a much easier time with maintainence on them- both pushing them out and pushing them in the next time. I use a
C-clamp device with a pretty heavy screw on it and a turning handel thats like 1/2 inch in diameter. Basically all you do to install is, first clean up the ID of the bushing carrier with scotch pad till it's nice and honed. Then lather up the ID of the bushing carrier on the spring with anti-seize, then set the end of the C-clamp on the end of the bushing and start turning. If alignment is good, you should be able to drive the bushing home without concern of mushrooming the OD of it. Removing a bushing thats been put in place with this method is also pretty easy. Pull the bolt, drop the spring, place a piece of 3" piping with ample clearence in it's ID for the bushing to be pushed into, and with your C-clamp in place, heat up the bushing carrier on the spring ever so slightly. Begin turning and in 2-3 minutes you'll be ready to install new bushings again. I also advise sticking to OEM bushings. Much of the cheap shit out there is made of material that is hydroscopic. That is, it absorbs water.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old September 1st, 2010, 01:35 PM
Ren Ching's Avatar
Ren Ching
Status: Offline
Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Downtown
Posts: 4,696
Registry
It is **WAY** easier to install and remove the bushing from the springs themselves than it is from the chassis. The reason being that the spring bushing eye is open on side. Nowhere near the resistance to fitting as with the solid eyes in the chassis. I have used a big Snap-On air chisel to drive chassis bushes in, that actually worked pretty well. These days I just put it off until I'm older. There are better ways to spend a Saturday

Looking for a good deal on a bushwacka tool if anyone has seen them. They never seem to come up.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Series Technical Discussions

Tags
bushings

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Clutch spring MOD--MUST HAVE evilfij Defender Technical Discussions 2 July 3rd, 2005 10:03 PM
DAP bushings jorge Defender Technical Discussions 5 April 18th, 2005 08:39 PM
Need D1 rear spring perch James Wanted 1 April 3rd, 2005 12:29 AM
Body bushings - poly or factor rubber?? jaherring Defender Technical Discussions 15 February 10th, 2005 06:42 PM
Spring Isolators wicks Defender Technical Discussions 16 January 28th, 2004 02:37 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:19 AM.


Copyright