S11a bulkhead replacement ? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 15th, 2016, 11:32 AM
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Peter Shaw
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S11a bulkhead replacement ?

My Siia 1965 88 bulkhead is a total loss, Should I go with a galvanized bulkhead from Pangolin 4x4 or standard epoxy coated?
I want it to last, I know modern coatings are better than the old lacquer paints originally used, but the longevity of galvanized is appealing. Does a galvanized finish on the bulkhead cause fitting issues? Also, Can anyone recommend other suppliers for bulkheads?
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  #2  
Old March 15th, 2016, 12:00 PM
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I have a new series lla bulkhead. $2400
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Old March 15th, 2016, 01:00 PM
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I have a new series lla bulkhead. $2400
Can you provide pictures? Where are you located, generally for shipping estimate?
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Old March 15th, 2016, 01:10 PM
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galvanizing can cause it to warp, causing fitment and door alignment issues. When having it dipped, specify to have it air cooled instead of quenched. That will significantly reduce the warpage associated with the rapid change in temperature. If it still becomes warped in the process, some strategically applied force (ratchet straps) can get it back into the desired shape/location.
The bulkhead on my IIa has made it 25 years on the road of year round driving with POR-15. It'll need door posts in a few years and its on its 2nd set of foot wells. But 25 years isn't bad. The spare in my garage will be dipped for sure.

Ike has been known to redo bulkheads, as well as Matt Browne at Overland Engineering as well. You could also try Pegasus Parts in the UK 02 - Bulkheads - 4-cylinder models - Pegasus Parts remanufacture new Land-Rover bulkheads for Series models.

Give the Roversnorth and Gunsandrovers forum a search about this issue. Many more series guys over there who have dealt with this issue before, post #30 1963 88'' - Page 3
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  #5  
Old March 15th, 2016, 04:25 PM
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Also consider having it zinc dipped vice galvanized. Eliminates the warp issue.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwollschlager View Post
galvanizing can cause it to warp, causing fitment and door alignment issues. When having it dipped, specify to have it air cooled instead of quenched. That will significantly reduce the warpage associated with the rapid change in temperature. If it still becomes warped in the process, some strategically applied force (ratchet straps) can get it back into the desired shape/location. The bulkhead on my IIa has made it 25 years on the road of year round driving with POR-15. It'll need door posts in a few years and its on its 2nd set of foot wells. But 25 years isn't bad. The spare in my garage will be dipped for sure. Ike has been known to redo bulkheads, as well as Matt Browne at Overland Engineering as well. You could also try Pegasus Parts in the UK 02 - Bulkheads - 4-cylinder models - Pegasus Parts remanufacture new Land-Rover bulkheads for Series models. Give the Roversnorth and Gunsandrovers forum a search about this issue. Many more series guys over there who have dealt with this issue before, post #30 1963 88'' - Page 3
Pegasus would be great, especially for a brand new bulkhead, but the cost $5k was too much when I last looked into it. Thanks for the link to the rovers north forum, I have to spend time reading it, we have had the SII in the family for more than 25 years, too many sitting and rusting away, so my rebuild is going for longevity.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Also consider having it zinc dipped vice galvanized. Eliminates the warp issue.




Help me out, what is zinc dipped?




Galvanizing is molten zinc dipped, the only other zinc options that I am aware of are electro plating or a zinc paint finish.


To the OP..........I'd buy a restored bulkhead state side and either prep and paint it or send it to the galvanizer. Jon Dorr come to mind in NY or Ike. The one mark posted above for a new bulkhead is a good deal too.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 05:15 PM
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Help me out, what is zinc dipped? Galvanizing is molten zinc dipped, the only other zinc options that I am aware of are electro plating or a zinc paint finish.
Poor choice of words. Electro plating. See photo.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Poor choice of words. Electro plating. See photo.
how is that for creeping into hollow cavities? Or is it more of a surface deal?
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Old March 15th, 2016, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rwollschlager View Post
how is that for creeping into hollow cavities? Or is it more of a surface deal?
I don't know the process, but SHP had my bulkhead "zinc dipped", along with T posts and a few other bits. I assumed it was actually dipped in something similar to chroming.
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  #11  
Old March 16th, 2016, 02:34 PM
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Yeah, it's effectively the same process as chrome plating. The part is put into a bath, charged, and the zinc plates it. It's a very thorough method in terms of coverage, and while not as robust as galvanizing, it's not nearly as harsh of a process (150 degrees vs 850). I have a bulkhead here that was galvanized by a customer and it was twisted in several directions by the process. I've had nothing but bad experiences galvanizing thin sheet metal components, even in a jig.

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Old March 16th, 2016, 02:56 PM
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Can you sand and paint easily after a zinc dip? Any special prep needed to make paint stick?
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Old March 16th, 2016, 03:24 PM
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I don't know if there's a special coating you need to put over the zinc for adhesion purposes, but I know that in terms of body work it's substantially easier since the hot galvanizing likes to build up in crevices and low spots, and it lays on way thicker. The three galvanized bulkheads I've dealt with took nearly twice as much time to prepare for paint compared to one that was uncoated. The zinc is much thinner and can be removed by sanding (take some 120 grit to a yellow bolt and you'll see what I mean) so it's smart to get any major body work out of the way first before the plating.

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Old March 16th, 2016, 04:20 PM
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I got my bulkhead from Ike and had him hot dip galvanize it. The installer told me it was slightly warped but nothing he couldn't handle. I think the galvanizing place Ike uses treats his stuff better than if you just walked in off the street but I don't know that for a fact. I know Matt Browne has also had things hot dipped and from what I've read ECR does some of their stuff as well. I chose not to paint it because I've heard about adhesion issues and personally I liked the look. I did spray Fluid Film into the door posts as best I could using the plastic nozzle extension thru the hinge bolt holes a couple of yars ago and I ought to do it again. I also had the interior from the bottom of the dash down sprayed with a Linex type of bed liner material. It has been 5 or 6 years since it was done and I'm not the best at keeping the road salt used in Maine off the truck and so fat everything looks the same as when I got it but not as shiny. IMHO it is on of the best ways to keep a Rover on the road for a long time especially if you are going to use it as a daily driver like I do.
Jim
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Old March 17th, 2016, 06:06 AM
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I had my Series III bulkhead galvanised by a fence company. They only dip about once a week with a small tank so it actually was dipped passenger side then driver side. Seeing as it had no warping or fitting issues having to dip it in two steps may have helped it to stay straight. Only minor issue was at the sides of the footwell (kickpanel) had a very slight bow from the heat. I then completely injected it with Dinitrol so should outlast me, I hope.
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  #16  
Old March 17th, 2016, 06:23 AM
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Anode shadowing is a problem with zinc electroplating.

The inside of the bulkhead will not be electroplated.

Coating thickness is significantly thinner than hot dip by at least an order of magnitude.

Corners plate much faster than flat surfaces.

Advantages are lower heat and much tighter tolerances. In some cases, better adhesion to the substrate.

For bulkheads, i would go hot dip all the way

Slight warping on a bulkhead is something that can be fixed pretty easily imho...you have to be real about what you are dealing with. Tolerances on rovers are laughable The biggest danger is not warping, its the hot dip place dropping your part and damaging it.

When it comes to galv, stop worrying and just dip everything
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Old March 17th, 2016, 07:04 AM
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Hot dip. Bear in mind that the hotter the better, it might warp a bit (generally its just ripples in the sheet metal, never had anything warp structurally). Electroplating is a nice look but it wont do much internally.
Galvanizing is not a cure all. It doesn't get into any smell gaps and will not fill a 1/32 inch seam. Still need to treat for corrosion, and by nature the zinc is disapearing from day one, if its working and will eventually need recoating.
The biggest issues I have had with galvanizing (and I do a lot) is the people who do it. Generally I dont have anything dipped I cant replace.
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Old March 17th, 2016, 09:36 AM
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Go to the G&R site under parts section and search Bulkheads. There is a gent in New York who refurbishes bulkheads for fun and for cheap...last check he was +/-$900 for a IIa painted refurbished. He also offers galvanizing. Only catch is he wants your bulkhead core so you would need to ship it to him.
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Old April 3rd, 2016, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Parrie View Post
Go to the G&R site under parts section and search Bulkheads. There is a gent in New York who refurbishes bulkheads for fun and for cheap...last check he was +/-$900 for a IIa painted refurbished. He also offers galvanizing. Only catch is he wants your bulkhead core so you would need to ship it to him.
UPDATE : Thanks for all the help, I'm working with John Dorr he has a bulkhead and rebuilds them as a hobby. He recommended epoxy , his reasoning was galvanizing can cause more problems from poor handling and warping than it's worth and modern epoxy inside and out will add to a long service life. I'll post pics and a wrap up when he finishes it and ships it.
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Old April 5th, 2016, 10:51 AM
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Just curious, what is the cost for the epoxy option? Please do post some pics.
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