Replacing molding between the door and windows - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 18th, 2012, 06:37 PM
pdella
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Replacing molding between the door and windows

I need to replace the molding between the door and the removable windows- New ones just came in a package with no directions, old ones dry rotted and ripped... do I just use contact adhesive and press them on? Anything that I should do to minimize the leaking?
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  #2  
Old June 19th, 2012, 10:38 AM
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I'm not sure what you're referring too. Do you mean the felt on the window tracks, or the piece of rubber between the door top and bottom? Or maybe the panel above the arm rest? Maybe a picture of your new part would help.

Daniel
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Old June 19th, 2012, 10:54 AM
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He's talking about the rubber seal between the door top and the door bottoms it looks like. Paul, look through this thread for directions and post up your results and we can confirm if you did it right.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=29716
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 02:06 PM
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unclear on these items

I read the directions from the post and a few items that are unclear to me.

1. Why did RR engineer specifically engineer a channel in the window bottom in the first place? If they did then why does it appear that we are essentially filling it up with 3m strip caulk and then rubber strips into the groove? Where do I get the rubber strips and do I cut them the exact width and length of each section

2. Is the new factory molding then (glued- if so what type of adhesive? can I use spray contact adhesive? or is there a special rubber to metal cement?) on top of the rubber strips?

3. I am unclear what to do with the zip ties?

4. How should I keep the molding tight to the window top- install it and hand tighten the window to the door?
thanks!

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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
He's talking about the rubber seal between the door top and the door bottoms it looks like. Paul, look through this thread for directions and post up your results and we can confirm if you did it right.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=29716
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Old June 19th, 2012, 02:13 PM
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Maybe this will help....
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Land_Rover_Defender_Water_Ingress_Manual.pdf (565.6 KB, 74 views)
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Old June 19th, 2012, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdella View Post
New ones just came in a package with no directions
post a picture of what you have, as your questions seem like we may need to see what you're working with here.

-There should be two round holes in the rubber you bought - if you're talking about the rubber that goes BETWEEN your door tops and door bottoms - these holes are what your window studs go through (buy stainless steel ones if you haven't already - search "quicknuts" if you're unclear).
-There should also be 1-3 other rectangular cutouts in the rubber that face the outside of your truck, so that when water comes through your door tops and down into this rubber channel, it is forced to the OUTSIDE of your truck as opposed to the inside.
-Do not put adhesives on this rubber, as the studs are what secure them to your truck.
-The zip ties and all that other crap are just things someone did to modify theirs to their liking. Do the stock set-up first with the holes and securing them down, and if you are getting leaks, modify from there.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 03:39 PM
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Come to Happy Hour on Thursday and all will be made clear. And bring the seals of course. It will cost you a pitcher of IPA to have this sorted out
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Old June 19th, 2012, 03:49 PM
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Where can you purchase the rubber seal? Mine is tattered on both doors. I thought it was NLA?
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Old June 19th, 2012, 03:52 PM
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Rovers Down South I believe.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 04:55 PM
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George was the one who told me it was NLA.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 05:01 PM
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He tells me that on everything I ask him for it seems like. I could have sworn I saw them on his site not too long ago in plastic bags, but maybe that was the around-the-door seals.
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Old June 19th, 2012, 05:01 PM
pdella
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Great, It is the molding between the window bottoms and the door tops that you are speaking about. I spoke with Bill and it is now clear what he did in his post. I will try it stock with the SS studs and quick nuts that I bought at Atlantic British along with the new molding from RN with NO adhesives. Thank you for the tip about having the cutouts facing out! I will use the "O" ring washers around the SS studs, the plastic ties slid into the rubber inside hollow piece of the molding (no harm in trying) and place some sort of lubricant between the molding and the painted door top to keep the rubber molding from peeling off the paint like it did before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
post a picture of what you have, as your questions seem like we may need to see what you're working with here.

-There should be two round holes in the rubber you bought - if you're talking about the rubber that goes BETWEEN your door tops and door bottoms - these holes are what your window studs go through (buy stainless steel ones if you haven't already - search "quicknuts" if you're unclear).
-There should also be 1-3 other rectangular cutouts in the rubber that face the outside of your truck, so that when water comes through your door tops and down into this rubber channel, it is forced to the OUTSIDE of your truck as opposed to the inside.
-Do not put adhesives on this rubber, as the studs are what secure them to your truck.
-The zip ties and all that other crap are just things someone did to modify theirs to their liking. Do the stock set-up first with the holes and securing them down, and if you are getting leaks, modify from there.
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  #13  
Old June 20th, 2012, 01:20 PM
pdella
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Thanks

great doc- I'll start caulking!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
Maybe this will help....
------ Follow up post added June 20th, 2012 01:20 PM ------

Where and when is the happy Hour- IPA it is!


Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Come to Happy Hour on Thursday and all will be made clear. And bring the seals of course. It will cost you a pitcher of IPA to have this sorted out
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  #14  
Old June 20th, 2012, 03:02 PM
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Kilroy's in Springfield VA. Any time after 5 pm. I think Huff and Tyler will be there and probably well greased since they said they were coming at 4. Park in the back at the far end of the lot.
Coming from Maryland, take the beltway thru tysons until you get to the Braddock Rd exit. Take braddock exit and get in left exit lane so you can take a left into the shopping center that's straight across thru the light.
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