Rear Tub Delima - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 17th, 2013, 10:03 PM
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John Crouse
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Rear Tub Delima

So my 1961 Series II has a tub from a 1971. I've tried locating a more correct tub, but no luck. I'm prepping mine for paint and don't know what to do about the holes for the back up lights. Series IIs did not have them. No wiring in my harness and no switch on my gearbox. I like the look with out them. Thinking about several options:

- Those rear panels can be had, but that means doing six hammer rivets on each side and I've never done them.

- Use the two holes on either side to pop rivet a plate onto the back side and skim the big hole with body filler.

- Have someone weld a plate to the back and fill in the two screw holes and the big one.

Same issue with the side lights too.

Thoughts?
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  #2  
Old June 18th, 2013, 12:56 AM
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Find someone with a tig welder or even a mig with a spool gun. Weld in patch panels (cut from other used panels). and flap wheel/grind them smooth. My uncle patched my tub on my 88 where the tabs on the rear cross member rotted it out. All that being said, I would keep the reverse lights. The side lights and the rot from the steel seat belt mounts tend to be the worst with respect to later tubs. Hammer rivets are not hard to do with the right tool.

Bondo is a big no no in my experience on aluminium panels. As soon as you tap one, it cracks. If you do it, I would panel bond patches on the back as opposed to riveting on patch panels.
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  #3  
Old June 18th, 2013, 06:12 AM
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Bill Adams
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The rear panels are available both OE and reproduction. Ike has a few OE but be prepared for sticker shock.
With the tub off the replacement isn't all that difficult except for two of the corner rivets are somewhat of a pain. Easy with two people.
IDK how you can restore a Series and avoid the rivet thing. You need to buy the rivets and bucking iron from McMaster Carr. Hold the bucking iron (rivet setting tool) on the outside and hammer on the inside. Easy peezy.
Paint the tub after installing the rear panels and before installing the galvanized pieces.
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  #4  
Old June 21st, 2013, 10:49 AM
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John Crouse
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So AB had both sides at a reasonable price. They're on the way. Thanks Eric!
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Old June 21st, 2013, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 61rover View Post
So AB had both sides at a reasonable price. They're on the way. Thanks Eric!
John:

Are you removing the side panels from that tub and "replacing" them? I've got a bashed up '71 tub that I need to fix...which is why I'm wondering.
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  #6  
Old June 21st, 2013, 07:20 PM
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John Crouse
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I'm replacing the rear panels on either side of the tailgate.
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  #7  
Old June 23rd, 2013, 09:39 PM
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John Crouse
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New question

Okay I have the rear panel removed. It was spot welded on the surfaces with arrows. I'm not going to be able to spot weld the new one in. I don't want it to rattle or vibrate. What about using an adhesive on those surfaces when I reinstall?
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  #8  
Old June 24th, 2013, 10:07 AM
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I would. It can't hurt.
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  #9  
Old June 24th, 2013, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 61rover View Post
Okay I have the rear panel removed. It was spot welded on the surfaces with arrows. I'm not going to be able to spot weld the new one in. I don't want it to rattle or vibrate. What about using an adhesive on those surfaces when I reinstall?
61rover, do not use adhesive on those surfaces. I did the exact same repair on both sides of my tub and did not use any adhesive.

The adhesive will not help with rattles. The fit is very tight with the replacement panel.
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  #10  
Old June 24th, 2013, 11:48 AM
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It should have come with the upright part that forms the left hand side of the tailgate opening. It appears that you did not remove yours all the way when you took the rear panel off. In the pic above it is the thing that the left hand arrow is pointing to. That and the rear panel come as an assembly.
It is held on to the tub with two big fat rivets on the bottom and several on the wheel box. It was originally spot welded to the box flange (the area that the right hand arrow is pointing to) but you can get away with substituting hammer rivets or pop rivets if you are a wuss, or even PanelBond if you are a super-wuss.
Nothing along the bottom, except the two 5/16ths bolts that go into the cross member.
Before you install, take a moment to mark and drill for the license plate lamp using the old panel as a template. I missed that step and I had to measure and mark, then drill when it was on the chassis.
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  #11  
Old June 24th, 2013, 12:51 PM
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John Crouse
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Thanks Bill. I'll see what comes with the new ones. Agree on the license lamp!

Just ordered solid rivets, blind rivets, and bucking bar from McMasters.
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  #12  
Old June 28th, 2013, 12:11 PM
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John Crouse
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Bill you are correct. I have removed the remaining pieces. I received the panels, rivets, and tools yesterday. Hope to make some progress this weekend. I'll post pics over on my build page.

I ended up ordering both blind and solid rivets from McMasters. I can't see any difference between them and OEM other than they are 1/2' and the OEM are 7/16".
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  #13  
Old June 30th, 2013, 08:51 PM
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Robert Davis
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Attaching panels? Try this...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJZ3SAU/...?tag=dradis-20

Use this tool to drill the recess and fill the hole with a peen over solid counter sunk rivet. They look very much like a spot weld and once painted over, the difference is un-noticeable.
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  #14  
Old July 2nd, 2013, 08:47 AM
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John, you will probably find that the bucking iron is rather wimpy for what it is supposed to do. What I did was jam it in the end of a 1" schedule 40 pipe. That helped with both grip and mass. If I were making a bucking iron to use long term, I'd weld it onto a block of steel so it had more heft.
I also popped for the air chisel powered rivet setter. For rivets in tough spots, it has been a real hero. It needs only a half-second pull of the trigger to firmly set the rivet, and it tends to draw the head down tight.
My ace-in-the-hole rivet tool is a pneumatic jaw rivet squeezer. This has a rivet set an anvil built into the jaws. Pull the trigger and the rivet gets mashed, badda bing.
I also faked the look of the hammer rivets on two holes where I could not get a hammer or the air tool on the back of the rivet. I installed a pop rivet , the kind that have a sealed end, and then epoxied a little bit of aluminum mandrel back into the hole. A little sanding and a little buffing and it is very hard to tell it is not a hammer rivet.
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  #15  
Old July 2nd, 2013, 01:08 PM
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John Crouse
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Knocked out both sides in about 90 minutes with Russ Wilson's help. Bill I did exactly the same thing with the bucking bar. Also bought the air hammer rivet tools from Northern tool. Hard to tell, but I soaked the galvy pieces in Evaporust overnight and they came out nice.

It actually went stupid smooth and easy. Very pleased with how it turned out. Need to sand and paint the rest of the tub and then it's back on the truck.
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  #16  
Old July 2nd, 2013, 04:00 PM
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It was dead nuts simple and only took about 15mins per side. I almost felt guilty drinking his beer as my fee for helping. Almost.....
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