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  #21  
Old October 25th, 2012, 01:59 PM
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Michele
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Whoups...I understood you sold the axles/Series to someone who turned it into something...on portals.
Just being curious, there aren't many around to see.
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Sketches and doodles:
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  #22  
Old October 25th, 2012, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killahaas View Post
where would i find those axles?
I just sold my BJ60 Land Cruiser and have built up Cruiser axles. 40 series axles are easy to find because many 40 owners are upgrading to 60 axles for strength and extra couple of inches of width. Go to IH8MUD and look through their classifieds section. Youll find a set really easily. 60 series axles are just about equivalent to Dana 60s in strength.
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  #23  
Old October 25th, 2012, 02:36 PM
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ed angel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killahaas View Post
thanks, i still think i am going to exact route you are going. i may contact you in regards to the GBR gears.

Look me up I would be glad to share anything I know with you.
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95 D90 SW 4.6 ARBs 8274 37" BFGs Gigglepin twin motor 8274
94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #24  
Old October 25th, 2012, 07:57 PM
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Dylan Haas
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so does anyone know if just disco 24 spline axles will fit in? or disco axles longer? or what?
Dylan.
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  #25  
Old October 25th, 2012, 09:11 PM
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my front diff has a fill plug in the case the rear diff does not. but either way. i think i am lean towards buying discovery I axles and modifying them to fit. there is a guy on the RN forums who has done it and i am waiting on better pictures and a few more details but so far it looks to be the better way of doing this when it comes to how much the axles and disc brake conversion will cost.
Dylan
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  #26  
Old October 25th, 2012, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killahaas View Post
my front diff has a fill plug in the case the rear diff does not. but either way. i think i am lean towards buying discovery I axles and modifying them to fit. there is a guy on the RN forums who has done it and i am waiting on better pictures and a few more details but so far it looks to be the better way of doing this when it comes to how much the axles and disc brake conversion will cost.
Dylan
You are all over the place lol, last you told me you wanted to just do the Timm copper discs haha.
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  #27  
Old October 25th, 2012, 09:40 PM
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it looks like it will be so much cheaper to do that.
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  #28  
Old October 26th, 2012, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Coiler housing and inner shafts are longer. The Diff (complete 3rd member) will fit in your housing, but you might need to ad a fill plug if your housing doesnt have one.

-Jeff
Jeff is right you will need to add a fill plug and 4 of the studs need to be swapped out for longer ones, both an easy job. I just did a swap on a series .
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95 D90 SW 4.6 ARBs 8274 37" BFGs Gigglepin twin motor 8274
94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #29  
Old October 27th, 2012, 04:50 AM
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I agree with jeff on this as well, I looked into doing this and its not a straight forward swap. The steering issues alone are a challenge, if you want to keep the castor in the ballpark.
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95 D90 SW 4.6 ARBs 8274 37" BFGs Gigglepin twin motor 8274
94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #30  
Old October 27th, 2012, 08:03 AM
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Chris
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I know one series 88 on portals. Best used off road only.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #31  
Old October 27th, 2012, 11:08 AM
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Daniel Rogers
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So like I said earlier if it was a good idea it would have been done over and over many times by now.

The front axle is the real challenge. The pumpkin on the coiler is more to the right than a series. The axle tube starts to spread right where your spring perch needs to go. IMHO this could limit up travel significantly without some creative work on your spring perch. There isn't much up travel on a stock series as it is but there would be less with a coiler axle I think. Then there is the issue of the location of the track rod and drag link. Series has them both up front, coiler has drag link up front and track rod hanging low behind the axle. You'd have to modify these I think to fit around the springs but maybe you could clock it somehow to fit but then you'd be changing the caster angle. Others have gone this route and documented it online. There is a build somewhere on expedition portal and pirate iirc.

I wouldn't have used coiler axles if I wasn't doing the spring over and even doing that it was alot of work to get the steering to where is is now and I'm still not sure it will work (keeping my fingers crossed for no death wobble and that my welds on the swivel housings are good!).

Its always fun to try though so if you're motivated and have the parts in hand don't let us nay sayers slow you down! Just don't think it will be a straight forward job and start in the front because if you get it to work the rear will be easy.

Here is a pic to show what I was saying regarding the location of the pumpkin vs the spring. You can see that the axle tube spreads out. I had to grind the perch to fit and its still not totally level where the spring sits. Hope this helps.

Daniel
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  #32  
Old October 27th, 2012, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1962siia88 View Post
So like I said earlier if it was a good idea it would have been done over and over many times by now.

The front axle is the real challenge. The pumpkin on the coiler is more to the right than a series. The axle tube starts to spread right where your spring perch needs to go. IMHO this could limit up travel significantly without some creative work on your spring perch. There isn't much up travel on a stock series as it is but there would be less with a coiler axle I think. Then there is the issue of the location of the track rod and drag link. Series has them both up front, coiler has drag link up front and track rod hanging low behind the axle. You'd have to modify these I think to fit around the springs but maybe you could clock it somehow to fit but then you'd be changing the caster angle. Others have gone this route and documented it online. There is a build somewhere on expedition portal and pirate iirc.

I wouldn't have used coiler axles if I wasn't doing the spring over and even doing that it was alot of work to get the steering to where is is now and I'm still not sure it will work (keeping my fingers crossed for no death wobble and that my welds on the swivel housings are good!).

Its always fun to try though so if you're motivated and have the parts in hand don't let us nay sayers slow you down! Just don't think it will be a straight forward job and start in the front because if you get it to work the rear will be easy.

Here is a pic to show what I was saying regarding the location of the pumpkin vs the spring. You can see that the axle tube spreads out. I had to grind the perch to fit and its still not totally level where the spring sits. Hope this helps.

Daniel
You couldnt tack a small lip on the bottom to keep the u bolt from moving?
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  #33  
Old October 27th, 2012, 01:25 PM
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Daniel Rogers
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On my build? The those ubolts are snugged up to the spring perch and can't move. The longer one is also snugged up on the back side between the perch and the diff housing too. Thanks.

Daniel
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