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  #1  
Old October 14th, 2015, 02:42 AM
RBBailey
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Knock of Some Kind

His is a 2.25l. Cheap replacement engine I got when my last one lost its bearings. It starts and runs well, seems to have power enough. I think I've got the timing dialed in well now too.

However, over the summer oil pressure kept dropping during idle when the oil has really gotten up to full temp. There were times when the engine would actually sputter after going up a hill. Roving Ryan's dad actually suggested that I might simply have a low idle setting, and I think he may have been right. But I can't really get out and test it now because after the last few drives I've had a knock develop.

I think it has been on the edge of my hearing for some time. But it is distinct now. It is coming from the back of the engine, somewhere near the middle top of the block. I can't really pinpoint it, but I think it may be most noticeable at that rear exhaust manifold.

Other than the knock, the only symptom might be that if I am at idle, then rev the engine quick a few times, some grey smoke does blow for a second or two. It is faint enough that I would have to have particular lighting to catch it on camera.

The knock itself is medium low, and it has a ring, or metallic sound to it. Video linked below that actually does capture the knock, but not really with the same tones I hear in real life.

The last engine I had knocked from right down low in the center of the block. And it had a deep wooden sound to it.

This is not a priority. I want to get the 110 on the road before I dive into this. But I figured if I get lucky, maybe one of you will know what this sounds like, and maybe I can justify a repair sooner than later.

https://flic.kr/p/ztpKhZ
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  #2  
Old October 15th, 2015, 12:03 PM
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Mine sounded like it had a knock, and my oil pressure gauge isnt where i would like it to be showing (i think there is a voltage regulator issue as well, idc for now), but it shows oil pressure. I adjusted the valves and the faint knocking sound is gone, the truck runs like 10x better now too. So you could just adjust the valves and see if that helps, its not gonna hurt anything!
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Old October 15th, 2015, 01:50 PM
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Yeah. That's one thing I was thinking of trying, so it's good to hear that you had success with it.
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  #4  
Old October 15th, 2015, 02:00 PM
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Had a Mini that did the same thing. No pressure at hot idle.
Had no problems with the engine over 30k.
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Old October 25th, 2015, 01:46 AM
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Finally got some time to inspect the truck.

I looked in on the cylinders, they were all pretty much the same. A coating of carbon in center, clean on edges. 3rd was a bit more dirty. All plugs were the same, dark, not oily, just carbon. #4 was a bit grey/brown.

Compression test: I don't think I did it right. At first I cranked for 6 seconds. But the numbers were very inconsistent. As in, 6 seconds would be 50 psi. Then on the same cylinder, 6 seconds would be 60 psi. Then something else.

So I cranked until the pressure stopped rising, 10-12 seconds. When I did it this way, each cylinder rose to between 87-90 psi, then would not go higher.

So then I opened the valve cover and adjusted the valves. Again, I actually don't know what too tight or loose is, so I did my best to get them equal at .010. When I started, #7 and 8 were so tight I could not get a .008 blade in there. Same with #1. All others were pretty good.

No change in the noise that I can tell. Runs fine.

A few things to note:
The knock can be heard while in idle. A small amount of gas and the knock goes away. I can't tell if I hear it at all while driving. When the gas comes off, as the RPMs drop back to idle, the knock quickly returns as the RPMs settle, but it is not rhythmic. Then you can't hear it for a few seconds, but as the idle stabilizes the knock goes back to its rhythm.
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  #6  
Old October 25th, 2015, 07:00 AM
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Is it possible that your knock is coming from your catalytic converter? I had a similar sound on my NAS V8 and it was the cat breaking apart inside.
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Old October 28th, 2015, 09:23 PM
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No, no cat on a '65!

I took the valve cover off and checked the spacing. The two at the rear were very tight, and #2 from front was very tight. All others were fairly good. After adjustment, the noise did not change.

Pistons are all dirty in center, but clean around edges. Plugs are black, but not gunky. Compression, which I did not really do right, showed all pistons were at least consistent.
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  #8  
Old October 29th, 2015, 07:04 AM
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If I remember correctly all the pistons compression should be over a 100psi. The numbers you are looking for are in the Green Bible.
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Old October 29th, 2015, 07:16 AM
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Do the compression test now that it's adjusted, you can lose compression to miadjusted valves.
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  #10  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 04:35 PM
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Yes. I'm going to try the test again tonight if I get the chance.

Questions:
Test with engine warm or cold?
Test dry only? Or do like I've read and put a bit of oil into each cylinder for the test?
Anything else?

Thanks
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  #11  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Yes. I'm going to try the test again tonight if I get the chance.

Questions:
Test with engine warm or cold?
Test dry only? Or do like I've read and put a bit of oil into each cylinder for the test?
Anything else?

Thanks
I believe if you put the oil in and the compression goes up, its likely worn rings. I may not be remembering correctly. I think Teri-Ann's website touches on it, google it.
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Old November 2nd, 2015, 05:31 PM
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Your compression should be around 150 psi.
If you add oil and the pressure goes up, then your rings have failed.
The sound could be a number of things.
Failing bearing shells sound like steel ball bearings flying around inside the engine.
The sound you have sounds like a tight or to loose wrist pin or just plain piston slap.
There is no way to tell for sure without a tear down and inspection.
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