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  #21  
Old July 31st, 2014, 07:54 PM
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John B.
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Step one. Check the toe setting. Once you know that is. Perfect report back. It should track true and smoothly at highway speed if everything is in good order.
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  #22  
Old July 31st, 2014, 07:59 PM
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yeah like Shayne said...try tightening up your steering first...allen key and a bolt...will make a WORLD of difference to you
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  #23  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:01 PM
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Abraham Bell
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I wouldn't use points. Pertronixs is the way to go. Webber 2 barrel carb and a header. See if you have a high comp head, it helps.
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  #24  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:03 PM
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Only time I ever did 70 mph in a series was on the runway at Biggin Hill when it was just a gliding school. Runways are pretty flat smooth "roads".
I haven't done more than 60 in my rebuild.
Yet.
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  #25  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:04 PM
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shayne young
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If he does the weber dual carb he is going to need the appropriate manifold and conversion kit..??.. Last time I had to find the dual throat weber it was impossible to find.. You have to go with the newer version..
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  #26  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:08 PM
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^^^^Yup - unless you can get a 2nd hand one^^^^ you have to replace the manifold as well
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  #27  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:23 PM
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I will test the play in the steering the tires are AVON RANGEMASTER 108/106N 7.50 R16 C Tube Type
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  #28  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:24 PM
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I can do 75 in mine and it drives pretty nice. It's noisy, but not scary.

Parabolics
Chevy 250
Fairey overdrive
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  #29  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:41 PM
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Niall Johnson
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I had OD in my 76 S3 and on the flat could get it up to 100KPH without much problem. Keeping it there and stopping from there were very different stories... And you needed hearing protection with a diesel.

BTW, was much easier to manage at hi speed once I ditched the bias plys and got radials, huge difference
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'94 FZJ80 - our Costa Rican coffee mule
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'70 Petrol SIIA 88 - a Costa Rican expat now with US citizenship!
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  #30  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:52 PM
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shayne young
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You do know that 100kph is only 60 mph..?? With overdrive you should have been able to do that easily..
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  #31  
Old July 31st, 2014, 08:55 PM
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So check the steering box, linkage, drive shaft joints, and tie rods.

The tires were put on about 300 miles ago and the truck had an alignment. Truck will drive straight at low speeds if I take my hands of the wheel. Also shocks were put on about 1000 miles ago.

------ Follow up post added July 31st, 2014 06:56 PM ------

found the green bible: http://www.scribd.com/doc/9277477/La...he-Green-Bible
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  #32  
Old July 31st, 2014, 09:01 PM
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Niall Johnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
You do know that 100kph is only 60 mph..?? With overdrive you should have been able to do that easily..
Um yes. Did you forget that that truck was a diesel? It was probably putting 32 hp to the wheels. Makes my '70 petrol seem quick...
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'99 UZJ 100 - for glamping and grocery getting
'94 FZJ80 - our Costa Rican coffee mule
'96 FZJ80 - 3XL, racked, shaved and dipped in Raptor coat
'70 Petrol SIIA 88 - a Costa Rican expat now with US citizenship!
'70 Petrol SIIA 88 - for Central America surf & coffee exploration
'56 Petrol S1 86 - a whole new kind of land rover hell...
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  #33  
Old July 31st, 2014, 09:20 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Add a valve adjustment to the engine list. If all else fails, move to <1000ft
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  #34  
Old July 31st, 2014, 10:02 PM
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The 2.25 is not an engine designed for speeds above 50 MPH although it will go 60+ if in good shape on a flat.
This engine has about 75 - 80 HP. That's it.
Your 1973 (if the engine is original) is an early SIII and rated new @ 77 HP.
The main issue with the 2.25 is the very mild cam.
Way too mild to get any real performance and the head design breaths poorly.
Years ago I invested some big bucks trying unsuccessfully to build a 100 HP 2.25.
I bought a ACR "high performance" cam, a ported head, header, and used a 32/36 weber 2 barrell.
It dynoed in at 86 - 88 HP max.
The "performance cam" offered a better center line, but had almost stock lift with slightly more duration and did little to improve the performance.
Looked into getting some cam blanks to design and produce a better cam, but they were impossible to obtain unless you bought a full production run of something like 500 from the manufacturer in Spain.
That's when I sold all the performance parts, sold the engine and started building engine conversions, but that is a whole different story.

Overdrive is a waste of money in my opinion and please don't change your gearing as then you'll only use the higher gears on down grades because you haven't the power to pull higher gears on an upgrade.

You need to check your front swivel ball play.
If you're lucky the front play can be corrected by removing swivel ball shims, replacing any worn tie rod ends, and adjusting the steering.
A steering stabilizer will help, but don't use it to mask worn out or badly adjusted steering components.
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  #35  
Old July 31st, 2014, 10:16 PM
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Don
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Colorado Brother!

Some good suggestions so far. Increasing speed can be accomplished by the use of an overdrive, swapping your differentials with higher ratio units from an older Range Rover or changing the gearing inside your transfer case with the so-called high ratio transfer gears.

From a greasy finger standpoint, installing the overdrive is the easiest, but changing the differentials is not too bad either.

From a cost standpoint, used Range Rover differentials are the cheapest.

Now, all of these things have their downside. The most obvious is the effectiveness of your brakes! The other (differentials and high ratio transfer) will cause problems for you going up hills. If the engine is under-performing, you need to start there.

Your engine may be knackered or not set up for high altitude. I'm not a big fan of your Weber carburetor. It is a generic type that works OK but under-perform's in a CFM/performance world. There is MUCH less oxygen at our altitude. You need to install high altitude jets in the carb. Tune up is a very good idea. You might wish to advance your timing a few degrees AFTER properly setting your point gap. Check your valve clearances. That is VITAL for these engines. That can make a big difference. Anyway, Rovers are not fast to begin with, but steep grades and high altitude make things worse!
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  #36  
Old July 31st, 2014, 10:36 PM
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shayne young
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GUYS... Some of you just aren't getting it..... His problem is not about speed..it's about holding it in his lane.... Control....not power....white knuckle...white knuckle...vehicle wanders... Speed is. Nothing without control...
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  #37  
Old August 1st, 2014, 01:00 AM
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Don
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True Shane. However, his original post was titled "Ideas for increasing top speed of 1973 Series III". As you know, wonky handling can be caused by a host of things ... on the old Rovers the steering relay, ball joints and swivels are often badly worn. Even the steering rocker arm inside the steering box. I guess we should just tell him: "Welcome to the wacky world of 40 year old, British agricultural/military vehicles!"
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  #38  
Old August 1st, 2014, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
It dynoed in at 86 - 88 HP max.
That is VERY impressive! Was did you max for Tq?

AS for white knuckle syndrome, I think half of it can be reduce by recalibration of the device between the seat and the steering wheel. No offense but it takes a lot of miles to get comfortable with a non power assisted steering system, and the play in the steering, in a vintage truck. It can get very busy in the cockpit at speeds over 50. Two weeks ago a guy in the Land Cruiser club asked me to test drive his new BJ40 because the something was wrong with the driveline he could not go over 45mph in it. I thought it was the best, non power, setup I'd ever driven and had it up to 65 no problem: makes a series truck feel like Subaru. Is other car car is 2013 LR4....

Normal is always relative. But I'm not saying your suspension couldn't use some sorting, but have a few rover people drive your truck and get their feedback too. There is a fatigue factor in the these trucks too, I couldn't drive my old diesel for more than 1.5 hours, at any speed, without wanting to kill something after I got out. Petrol I'm good for double that

Hard to tell from you photo, but the tires look like bias-plys. Radials can make a big difference. Dump those ASAP. And do not run Duratracs, way too soft side walls, very squishy.
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'99 UZJ 100 - for glamping and grocery getting
'94 FZJ80 - our Costa Rican coffee mule
'96 FZJ80 - 3XL, racked, shaved and dipped in Raptor coat
'70 Petrol SIIA 88 - a Costa Rican expat now with US citizenship!
'70 Petrol SIIA 88 - for Central America surf & coffee exploration
'56 Petrol S1 86 - a whole new kind of land rover hell...
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  #39  
Old August 1st, 2014, 08:10 AM
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I'm in the same boat as you.

I wanted my 109 to be able to ride on the interstates and cruise with no issues. I've gotten that out of my 2.25 gas engine.

All of that said, I should've put my time, money, and effort into swapping in a TDI with 5 speed or whatnot. I could've gotten more power, more reliably, and then got the coveted 30 mpg on the highway.

For quick and easy power, get a Rochester B carb. You'll have to search and look hard as they seem to have disappeared from the market in the past 5 years. British Pacific used to keep them in stock, etc but I haven't seen them around lately. Also ditch the oil bath cleaner and put a big dumb cone filter on the truck. Lastly, extend the breather tube on the rochester. A piece of large vacuum/fuel line hose that is 4" long works just fine. This will prevent flooding out off road.

Next take it to an exhaust shop. From the exhaust manifold to the tail pipe, have a 2" exhaust installed. This made a HUGE difference. Some will say "oh this reduces your engine braking capabilities". This is true. That said this is the trade off, you sacrifice slowing down to help you go faster. As for the slowing down bit, you have these things called Brakes that can be used to slow your vehicle down. I suggest you keep them in good operating condition.

Not being able to stop is a bad time.

I've never been like, "Curse not being able to slow down without using my brakes! I'd totally sacrifice top end power for more engine braking!!!" In fact no one has said that...ever.

So updating the intake and exhaust should wake up your 2.25 quite nicely for less than $700.

Definitely put a Petronix in your distributor. Makes life easier. If you have a Ducellier distributor, rip that massive POS out and install a Lucas 45D4 with Petronix in it. It basically makes the ignition system bullet proof. Buy a spare coil off of Amazon, throw it in the back and you are good for 10 years.

Speaking of which, get you an electric fuel pump and put a regulator with a return line near the carb. This will solve so many problems for you. Also the stock mechanical fuel pump is pretty crappy. Replacement mechanical fuel pumps don't seem to last long these days compared to the genuines I used to buy years ago.

Or you can get an electrical fuel pump that is available anywhere...install it...and be done with it. As with the coil, buy a spare off of Amazon, throw it in the back and you are good for the next 10 years.

You won't see any performance gain from these two modifications, but you will have increase reliability from your rover. That is worth it.

As for my 109, I've rebuilt the engine a few times. Right now here is how she sits:

.030 bored over pistons
ACR cam (kinda agree with the statements up above, probably just should've put a 2.5 cam in it)
Cylinder head shaved so much I had to knock a bit off the water pump housing so that the cylinder head would fit
Head has been ported and polished
Lapped valves with 3 angle valve job
Full 2" exhaust with a cheap whatever muffler
Rochester carb
Big dumb cone filter from advance auto or whatever

I do have an overdrive. It makes things a lot more comfortable at higher speeds. Now that my engine is a BAMF, I *can* use it to go faster, but eh. The problem with the rover engine is that at higher RPMS (like, 3.5k) it screams. Unlike other engines that rumble or sound like power, the rover engine sounds like the screaming cries of 5 million crickets all dying a miserable death simultaneously.

I'm running 235/85/16 tires. If I went with something other than BFG mud tires, say, a nice light road tire ("light" as in tire weight) I'm sure that would help. Also ask others about using a slightly smaller size. The weight of the tire and wheel package makes a huge difference. Oh and on that note, make sure your rims aren't all bent to crap. Mine were. I installed straight wheels. At higher speeds, bent wheels will make your life miserable.

This would also be a GREAT time to invest in noise canceling earphones.

Right now I'm primarily driving my 109 back and forth to work. I go right through the heart of Atlanta traffic so I need to be able to cruise at 65 mph then slam on the brakes to a stop in an instant. The 109 does it. In recent road trips the 109 has been fantastic at cruising 60~65 mph for hours on end without any issues. Fortunately I still have youth on my side that allows me to put up with the misery associated with driving an old rover at 60~65 mph all day.

I'm experimenting with fuel injection on my 2.25 right now. Can't quite get it right but so far from what I've experienced, it is SSSSSSSSOOOOOOOOOOOOOO nice. I notice more power, better throttle response, better warm up, etc. However I've got a short or something somewhere because I can't get it to continue running at hotter temps. It is odd. If I can get that online, then I should be able to get better mpg and more reliable power (its odd that I say more reliable since I've had so many issues with it).

For me, doing all this crap to my 2.25 is a learning experience. I learned how an engine works. Learned how to build power. Learned how to tune a carb. Learned how to adjust valves. Learned how to program an ECU.

If I ever get another series that I will use for anything more than driving around town, its getting a TDI and a 5 speed. Done. For my 109, hopefully in 5 years I'll do a Gen 4 6.2 swap with the 6 speed auto and atlas transfer case. Get a pair of CUCV 60/14 bolt axles and standardize on a 35" tire. But oh...money...
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  #40  
Old August 1st, 2014, 08:46 AM
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^^^ Great post
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