help with series v8 cooling - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 8th, 2010, 03:01 PM
orionpco
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larry burns
1962 series 2a
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help with series v8 cooling

looking for a clean, and extremely effective way to cool my rover 3.5 in my series 2a

1. keeping the series grill
2. removing the 4 or so inches of metal between grill and radiator, to move new rad forward.
3. most likely gonna use electric fans.
4. a custom rad will slow me down but is exceptable to protect this fresh 3.5 from damage.
5. i will do what ever is needed to protect my monies spent on this motor.

considering these statements does any one have any ideas or prior knowledge on the subject.

------ Follow up post added August 8th, 2010 03:03 PM ------

sorry posted in wrong thread please be kind,, but get crackin on the suggestions.
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  #2  
Old August 8th, 2010, 05:30 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Thread moved. I have no experience with this, but will says that my 3.5L V8 in my defender 110 runs nice and cool so I don't think it should be hard to keep it cool. But that's just a guess
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Old August 8th, 2010, 07:43 PM
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David Short
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I have 3.5 V8 experience like Charles. Mine is in a Stage One. Mine overheated like crazy - all the time. then I opened the radiator up and found that it was solid packed with sediment.

I took it to a shop in Roanoke, VA and had a mechanic unsolder my end tanks and solder in a new center matrix - nothing fancy - just standard replacement stuff.

The truck has since run very cool. I have to muff it in the winter to keep the heater warm. So, like Charles, I think that any good clean radiator solution should sort you out.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 02:43 PM
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Bill Adams
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I took the shrouding and everything off the back of the breakfast so it is just a panel with the headlight buckets and bonnet latch panel. I ordered an aluminum 3 row radiator from Be Cool that is the width between the wings minus enough room to get the stud bar in there and have room for the bonnet support. Rad is supported by the bonnet latch panel at the top and sits in a channel deal on the frame cross member (which was moved forward and the steering arm shit thing cut out.) The radiator is cooled with a dual SPAL fan setup.
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  #5  
Old August 12th, 2010, 08:07 AM
The Dro
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Dro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Thread moved. I have no experience with this, but will says that my 3.5L V8 in my defender 110 runs nice and cool so I don't think it should be hard to keep it cool. But that's just a guess
Charles... do you think the fans I have will work for him??? (the ones I took out, not the new ones)

EDIT... Also I have a Flex-a-Lite radiator... it will not work on my Disco...
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  #6  
Old August 12th, 2010, 08:15 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I would think so - as long as it's a puller with decent cfm it should be fine.

charles
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  #7  
Old August 12th, 2010, 08:32 AM
The Dro
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Dro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orionpco View Post
looking for a clean, and extremely effective way to cool my rover 3.5 in my series 2a

1. keeping the series grill
2. removing the 4 or so inches of metal between grill and radiator, to move new rad forward.
3. most likely gonna use electric fans.
4. a custom rad will slow me down but is exceptable to protect this fresh 3.5 from damage.
5. i will do what ever is needed to protect my monies spent on this motor.

considering these statements does any one have any ideas or prior knowledge on the subject.

------ Follow up post added August 8th, 2010 03:03 PM ------

sorry posted in wrong thread please be kind,, but get crackin on the suggestions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I would think so - as long as it's a puller with decent cfm it should be fine.

charles
Larry, I have a brand new Flex-a-Lite 58000R radiator. It measures 33-5/8" x 18-1/2" x 3-3/4". The intake is on the RHD and the return is on the LHD.

Also, I have available a Hayden dual 12" electric fans with the adjustable thermostatic fan control. (160-210F)

Let me know if you are interested.
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  #8  
Old August 14th, 2010, 07:22 AM
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oil soaked filter
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I use stock RRC radiator rebuilt to suit width + 1 extra row in the core. Use the factory oil cooler and lines. Still have room for the standard engine driven fan. Have to make the mountings, which by now should be the least of your worries.

I have a big love hate with the electric fan thing. Love the concept, hate the results. Fine for race cars, cars in general and rigs that have the radiator mounted remotely. Seems as if they just don't last that well in wheeling rigs. Just an observation based on the amount of them I have removed from failure to perform or just plain failure.

I like simple.
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