Galvanizing the bulkhead - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 28th, 2010, 01:58 PM
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steve
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Galvanizing the bulkhead

I have been stripping down the series 1 to get ready for paint. I'm just stripping the galvanized trim (in great shape) and sanding the old paint before spraying, although I'm going to try to use a 'safer' stripper to see if I can get down to the original paint first.

I have most everything off the bulkhead so I'm considering just taking it off and galvanizing it. Any thoughts? If I do, I would like to not paint it.

I remember someone saying to not quench because of warping. True?

Is there anyway to make the galvanizing look aged? I really like the darker finish of the original cappings.
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  #2  
Old September 28th, 2010, 02:07 PM
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Do it. Ask JimC as he got my bulkhead dipped. If possible I would acid dip it rather than sand blast it. Galvanizing will dull within a couple years. Quite substantially dull in fact.

Ron
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  #3  
Old September 28th, 2010, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Do it. Ask JimC as he got my bulkhead dipped.

Just make sure you remove the vent screens before dipping!
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  #4  
Old September 28th, 2010, 02:30 PM
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nice photo, and thanks... but series 1's do not have vent screens. These were made where men were men and bugs in the teeth were a sure fire way to pick up chicks.
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Old September 28th, 2010, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
nice photo, and thanks... but series 1's do not have vent screens. These were made where men were men and bugs in the teeth were a sure fire way to pick up chicks.
I just like to make sure that vent screen info is included in any and all discussions of bulkhead preparation for galvanizing. haha

Your pics from the trip home in the S1 were awesome...when will we get more?
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  #6  
Old September 28th, 2010, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
nice photo, and thanks... but series 1's do not have vent screens. These were made where men were men and bugs in the teeth were a sure fire way to pick up chicks.
Vent screens were an option on series I land rovers.

BTW, if you do not have the book, the original series I by james taylor, I suggest you pick it up.

Ron
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  #7  
Old September 28th, 2010, 04:08 PM
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Eric Siepmann
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Pangolin4x4.com has a great article on repairing the bulkhead and galving it. Ike did mine and there was minimal warpage if done right. Make sure your body guy knows what to spray on it so the paint will stick.

EwS
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  #8  
Old September 28th, 2010, 04:16 PM
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Galv in the vent screen is not that much of biggie if you have a blow torch and an air hose. There was a write up about how the guy fixed his. It was a website for 1 ton s3 if i remember correctly. Heat up the galv then quickly take the air hose to blow it off/through the screen or what have you.
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  #9  
Old September 28th, 2010, 04:28 PM
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Josh- I'll post some more. and the pile of bolts it has turned into. I'm continually impressed with how good of shape it is in. There is zero rust.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Vent screens were an option on series I land rovers.

BTW, if you do not have the book, the original series I by james taylor, I suggest you pick it up.

Ron
Damn, so civilian.

I've seen the book, and do need to buy it. some of those rovers you could eat off of.


Eric- I just saw Ike two days ago... I should have asked him. I'm not planning on painting if I galvanize.
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  #10  
Old September 28th, 2010, 04:48 PM
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I would seriously dip the chassis and the bulkhead and the cappings. Series Is are really easy to take apart and you have gone this far.
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  #11  
Old September 28th, 2010, 06:16 PM
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You are right... but I really like the look of the cappings they way they are. The frame is super solid. I will paint it again but in CA there is not much worry...except the bulkhead and all its cavities.
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  #12  
Old September 28th, 2010, 10:38 PM
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I would call pacific galvanizing and ask them your questions about warping and how long it takes to dull. I dont think you will ever get a freshly galvanized bulkhead to perfectly match your original parts with their patina.

I know that pacific galv has done other series bulkheads. Matt on the mendolist recently had one done and it looked great and had no problems with warping. He did forget to take off the aluminum panel below the gauges and it melted in the tank. Oops!

They also have a minimum charge per order so if you want to go in on a run together let me know. Might lower the overall cost depending on how much stuff you decide to do.


Too hot for rover work today at my house!


Daniel
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  #13  
Old September 29th, 2010, 12:11 AM
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Sounds good Daniel. Lets put together a dipping party.
Hot? too hot... makes for good paint stripping though!

I tried the 'safer' citristrip today to see if I could get to the original paint. So far it actually worked. A nice bronze green patina showed up while getting rid of almost all of the respray.

I'm going to try some more this week. If I'm lucky I may be doing no painting at all and will have original paint.
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  #14  
Old September 29th, 2010, 02:53 PM
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That would be excellent!

I've seen some of the lrsoc guys comment that the citrus stripper doesn't attack the o.e. paint too much.

It's green under that tan?

Fantastic!


.....vent, optional. screens, not so much...

Oh wait, yours is an 88"? Should qualify...no screens on the 80"

KAA
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  #15  
Old September 29th, 2010, 05:50 PM
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First, even in cali frames rust if they get packed with mud. Second, what if you sell it down the road?

If you have the body off and bulkhead off and there is a dipping minimum it seems like the amount of work to dip the frame would be worth the benefit.
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  #16  
Old September 30th, 2010, 12:48 AM
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You guys are instigators. Right but instigators.

I'm really not at the point where I can galvanize everything, mainly because once all the capping come off it is going to need a proper paint job. That requires fixing a couple body issues as well as the brake lines, wiring, leaky transfercase, rivets......plus I dont have a lot of time these days.

Maybe after a couple years of use I'll really strip it all the way down and do it right. I'd like to actually drive the truck for a bit then decide where I want to go with it. I'm itching to get it back on the road.

------ Follow up post added September 29th, 2010 11:51 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnfrozenCaveman View Post
That would be excellent!

I've seen some of the lrsoc guys comment that the citrus stripper doesn't attack the o.e. paint too much.

It's green under that tan?

Fantastic!


.....vent, optional. screens, not so much...

Oh wait, yours is an 88"? Should qualify...no screens on the 80"

KAA
It is green underneath, I have exposed some of the original. It would be great to have the patina. Ike said he has tried this with mixed results, difficult to keep consistent over the whole body. I'll give it a shot, worse comes to worse it gets a new coat of tan!

It is an 86"
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  #17  
Old September 30th, 2010, 10:13 AM
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"mainly because once all the capping come off it is going to need a proper paint job."

Why, there is paint under it and it should actually make it easier to strip the top layer with them off.
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