Fuel starved - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 30th, 2014, 07:23 PM
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Fuel starved

I'm hoping there's something simple I've missed here.
Trying to chase down a fuel supply issue on a buddy's '72 SIII.

New fuel tank last month and it's been running well but without notice just sputtered and died this week. Runs fine otherwise (running starter fluid or manually filling the float bowl).

Just replaced the fuel pump thinking that was without a doubt going to solve the problem.
So, now there is a new fuel tank, new fuel pump and we even blew out the fuel line from the tank to the pump to make sure there wasn't a blockage or corrosion. The line appears to be free.
Next, I removed the tank sending unit and checked for obstructions. All clear.
I primed the line from the tank to the fuel pump with fresh gas and thought we'd be good to go.
Still no gas at the carb. Running a new Weber (new last summer).
Manually priming the fuel pump occasionally sprays some gas out the end by the carb, but nothing consistent.
The glass bowl is full of fuel.

What simple thing have I overlooked? Could there still be air in the line?, or should I redirect my focus on the sending unit again?
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  #2  
Old March 30th, 2014, 08:29 PM
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Leak in a line I would guess.
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  #3  
Old March 31st, 2014, 12:34 AM
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Might be a crack/split in the hard fuel line like the Fig said. Had that happen to me just at the elbow to the fuel pump. Also make sure the fittings(?) are nice and tight, could let air in and/or fuel out.
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  #4  
Old March 31st, 2014, 08:42 AM
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thanks guys, I will focus on the fuel supply line.
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  #5  
Old April 3rd, 2014, 01:32 PM
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If the fuel pump bowl is full of fuel then I don't suspect a fuel leak in the line......unless it is after the pump, but I would think that would be pretty obvious.

Check to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak at the carb and it is causing it to not suck fuel from the pump.
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Old May 5th, 2014, 08:12 AM
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I finallly had a window to help my buddy solve this problem.

Here's what I found.
About two months ago, he had new RN gas tank installed by a local shop (not a LR shop, just a general mechanic) after complaining of smelling gas. Two weeks after the gas tank had been installed, the truck sputtered to a stop after pulling out of his driveway.

We suspected his fuel pump and replaced that. No luck, but it cant hurt to have a new fuel pump anyway. Checked the sending unit, fuel filter as well as the float bowl/carb, all seemed fine.

Logically we thought it was a leak in the fuel line somewhere. Ordered all teh parts to replace the fuel line and while under the truck looking at it, it looked in pretty good shape (truck was a frame-off new rebuilt about 6-7 years ago).

So I got out the RectorSeal (leak detector) and smeared it on the unions along the fuel line.

Come to find out, the mechanic who installed the gas tank used a section of brake line as a union between two sections of rubber hose where it goes into the tank. I sorta wondered why somebody needed 6 hose clamps to secure a union. Anyway, of course that's where the air was entering in the system because the brake tubing wasn't the proper size.

Installed a proper barbed union at a cost of $2.50 or something and she's running perfect.


Why do people do shit like this and think it's acceptable (using the wrong materials/parts)? Especially when that's what you do for a f*cking living? I understand if you were out on the road or in the bush and that's all you had to make the repair, but when you're a "professional" mechanic with all the time in the world to source a simple part?

Long story short, the little air leak in the line cause all that trouble.


Many thanks to Airbornrover and Evilfij
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  #7  
Old May 5th, 2014, 09:41 AM
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That's for the follow up. We rarely hear the rest of the story, which is always helpful.
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Old May 5th, 2014, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
.


Why do people do shit like this and think it's acceptable (using the wrong materials/parts)? Especially when that's what you do for a f*cking living? I understand if you were out on the road or in the bush and that's all you had to make the repair, but when you're a "professional" mechanic with all the time in the world to source a simple part?

I'd understand if the mechanic gave an explanation.
But when you just find little surprises like this?

Unacceptable.


.
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  #9  
Old May 5th, 2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
I'd understand if the mechanic gave an explanation.
But when you just find little surprises like this?

Unacceptable.


.
Exactly!!!
it wasn't my mechanic, or at least a mechanic I'd let work on my Defender. Just a local shop (not a terrible shop IMO), and since my friend didn't tow the Series to a known Rover shop, he just brought it here. Lots of independent repair garages (not all mind you) are simple "parts replacers" and when they're presented with a problem outside their comfort zone all hell breaks loose. They are used to working on OBDII+ systems where all they have to do is plug something in and replace what's broken.

As we all know early Rovers don't work that way. Perfect example of why if you're going to own any vintage or specialty vehicle you either need to have the experience and resources to work on them yourself or deep enough pockets where you can send your rig 50+ miles away to get repaired every time something goes wrong. Trying to send your Series or Defender to the local general repair shop usually doesn't end well.
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Old May 5th, 2014, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
Installed a proper barbed union at a cost of $2.50 or something and she's running perfect.


Why do people do shit like this and think it's acceptable (using the wrong materials/parts)? Especially when that's what you do for a f*cking living? I understand if you were out on the road or in the bush and that's all you had to make the repair, but when you're a "professional" mechanic with all the time in the world to source a simple part?

Long story short, the little air leak in the line cause all that trouble.
Stereotypically because today's mechanics don't know any better.
Today's mechanics swap part for part to fix a problem and that's all they know.
For example: the ECU is bad based on their laptop, then plug a new one in.
Fault code for a TPS, open the box, out with the old ,and in with the new.

Most are not trained to work on a Series III and haven't a clue because they have to think outside the box most of their electronic parts come in.
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